In this beautiful and varied world of perfume many different things can happen. New fragrances come, older scents are gone (or they get reformulated), some become classics and are remembered for generations while some are easily forgotten. It somehow comes down to the reputation of the maison de parfum and a perfumer. But if there is a brand that is present on the market for over 25 years, they must be doing something right, right? Parfums de Nicolai (or Nicolai Parfumeur Createur) and new release from Patricia Nicolai doesn’t disappoint. It’s the very opposite.
Ambre Cashmere Intense begins by delivering a lovely spicy waft to your nostrils. Essence of black pepper with its dry yet warm scent is loaded with a decent piquancy which is strong enough to give a nice tingle and tickling inside of your nose. This interesting opening has a little bit of metallic vibe to it but this feeling becomes rounder and smoother when citron and mandarin join the composition. Both are very mild and in my opinion mandarin is slightly ahead in terms of power here. These aromas don’t cover the peppery scent but they exist next to each other.
This structured top notes are maintained on my skin for around 20-30 minutes before Ambre Cashmere Intense begins to shift a bit. When new notes start to emerge you will immediately know as the composition quickly becomes much more tender and sophisticated. First noticeable evolution here is the fact that the blend warms up in a cuddly and embracing way. In her new creation Patricia has used iris butter, a very luxurious perfume ingredient. As soon as I start to feel it I begin to fall in love. This is a beautifully structured iris accord. It has a nuanced configuration of silky floral tones, sweeter confectionery elements layered with fuzzy suede-like aroma plus the buttery softness.
Iris accord in this new fragrance from Nicolai is to die for but the scent continues to deliver more good things. After some time has passed since iris tones appeared and this accord has fully evolved on your skin. Ambre Cashmere Intense brings up more floral tones with some violet flowers. Its light and somehow watery aroma becomes more candied after some time. Moreover a sweet-n-spicy smell of cloves can be detected at this stage, around 1,5 hours after applying a perfume. What I love about this part of a fragrance is that it almost becomes one with you, this buttery iris melts with your skin making it really yummy. It’s the sensuality and caring smell that I adore when it gets cold.
Later on the perfume begins to smell more substantial with creamy elements. Vanilla absolute is not a pudding style here… It’s darker and definitely balsamic. Supported by benjoin resinoid you get the resinous touch with lightly sweet elements appearing here and there. Labdanum, which was used in proportion to other notes creates quite a solid base. Ambre Cashmere Intense now has a slightly animalic, ambery edge but it’s well-mannered. This is not a kind of perfume that would go wild. It’s all about creating a perfume that is gentle, enveloping. A perfume with strength and mildness at the same time. Here the proportions of both are pretty much 50:50.
As the time flies the new Nicolai composition becomes more aromatic and balsamic thanks to tonka bean. It combines facets of creamy, almost milky, spicy and coumarin-like. In another step you can smell a shiny and polished surface of a sandalwood which introduces a pretty woody element to the base. There is also a hint of patchouli to add an earthy touch and just a little bit dirty vibe to it. Of course there is also an amber accord – not salty and mineral like from ambergris but more luminous and sweet. The brightness truly emanates from this scent.
In the very end of Ambre Cashmere Intense evolution there is a cloud of musk. It’s light, fluffy and soft and because of vanilla it instantly makes me think of a bowl of whipped cream. It’s a delicate and harmonious tone that somehow gives me an impression as if iris butter smell was making a comeback. And believe me, I wouldn’t really mind as iris is obviously my favorite part of this fragrance. All in all my expectations towards this scent have been fulfilled.
Ambre Cashmere Intense from Parfums de Nicolai is a beautiful blend of spices, iris, resins and amber. It’s warm and sensual nature with a sweet background make it a perfect candidate for colder autumn and winter which are about to come. Personally I consider this fragrance as something very cuddly and would love to smell it on someone I love. And of course I would love to smell it on myself too. If your wardrobe lacks a wearable amber perfume kept in an optimistic mood then Ambre Cashmere Intense is your friend. You won’t regret getting it as this baby leaves a nice trail behind the wearer and can last for 10 hours if applied a bit more generously.