Being a perfume lover is pretty much about making discoveries. And just by saying that you can mean a couple of different interpretations of “making a discovery.” One that pops first in one’s mind is to find out about new brand and seek for a chance to try what they have to offer. Another way might seem a little bit saf but for me it’s probably the best and most interesting way of discovering – that is to come back to well-known brands, those that are among your favorite ones every once in a while they announce a launch of new fragrance. No matter which is more suitable for you it all leads to the same effect – learning something new and broadening our scented horizons.
Saying that I jumped up from excitement when I learned that Atelier Cologne, after a very fruitful 2015 (which was their 5th birthday year) is going to launch a brand new collection of fragrances making a focus on rare and precious materials from the oriental world. Just their Cologne Absolue was an innovation and twist on traditional cologne. With oriental elements it will become even more innovative. Collection Orient consists of 5 perfumes, today I will talk about my favorite one.
The fragrance that I found most attractive is named Mimosa Indigo and is just as pretty as its name sounds. Composition of this Cologne Absolue opens with a brief impression of tangerine. It’s citrusy sweet and juicy but at the same time it’s mild and very well-behaved. In the opening it’s there just for a short moment and it will return at the later development stage. As soon as this accord subsides you can start to notice that floral tones come in and how their intensity gradually builds up.
Mimosa blossoms are naturally the biggest start of this perfume. In Mimosa Indigo at first this floral accord is very transparent, slowly developing some watery, slightly aquatic facets. As the fragrance is warmed up by your skin the flowery molecules become more and more pronounced, gaining their characteristic yellow-ish aroma that has a delightful powdery undertone mingling in the background. It’s very pretty and sophisticated already and yet it’s going to evolve into something even more beautiful – mimosa is not the sole flowery element of this new Atelier Cologne creation.
Around 45 minutes mark this yellow facet of mimosa begins to change color like a chameleon and quite a few purple elements emerge from the depths of Mimosa Indigo composition. Purple shade that I just mentioned is introduced by a fantastic lilac chord. I have never appreciated lilac fragrances if they were soliflores mostly because they smelled too intensive and way too feminine for my tastes. Here lilac blends in perfectly, creating a wonderful vortex of color that is balanced and attractive. This note is obviously floral and has just a little bit more intensity than mimosa.
As the time goes by and top notes fly away we are moving towards the surprising twist in the heart phase of Atelier Cologne Mimosa Indigo. From the floral field of yellow and purple, from this bouquet that smells flowery, powdery and sweet an unexpected note emerges like a submarine in the middle of the sea – it’s a white leather accord. That’s the name used in official PR materials however from my own perception I can tell that it continues the powdery element from before and also it smells soft & fuzzy enough to consider this note as suede. We like suede, don’t we?
Leathery element in Mimosa Indigo is nicely rounded and quite playful. It has moderate power that stands out in the composition for the time being but generally speaking it’s very suitable just where it appeared. It didn’t break the perfume structure apart but rather did fit in where otherwise some gaps could be left. And because apart from having a leathery/suedy aroma it’s also powdery and soft which helps it to blend in more. Definitely there is more substance and structure.
Moving on with time the composition undergoes further changes. Fragrance of mimosa and lilac became weaker but is still present in the background. At this point of development it starts to become more clear that oriental part of Mimosa Indigo is still bound to come. And it does – as soon as sandalwood joins the composition with its substantive and woody smell that has nice density and saturation. After a few minutes it becomes more milky. Warm & spicy hue comes shortly after with a portion of saffron that emanates an aromatic, comforting aura. Plus there is some vanilla to make a drydown phase even more yummy. At the very end I could smell more tangerine, this time it was more tangy, accentuating its peel.
Mimosa Indigo from Atelier Cologne is a perfume that surprised me in a positive way. It’s complex, well-composed and rich at the same time not being overly powerful. I think this is a result of ‘cologne meets oriental’ compromise. I enjoyed every moment of this perfume and I definitely see a bottle of it in my near future. Collection Orient will be available for purchase in February and will come in 200ml, 100ml and 30ml white bottles with golden caps. With petit flacon you’ll receive a matching leather case which is purple (indigo) in case of this particular scent. Mimosa Indigo has a very nice longevity (+ 7 hours) and moderate sillage which is just fine for me.