Monday Quick Sniffs, part 32

After a bit of a break I’m back to bring you some mini reviews

Miller et Bertaux launched In, in 2013. This composition opens with rich and dense aroma of elemi. Resinous and balsamic initial phase gains some salty and woody facets as the fragrance keeps developing on skin. At some point this rather dark and heavy opening gets enlightened by ambery notes. Amber chord in In, is a light, luminous version of itself. It also introduces a decent portion of light that “pierces” through the darkness of elemi. As the time goes by the composition becomes more dry and veers towards woody notes. There is some fizzy ginger combined with bergamot and lime after which comes the aromatic drydown consisting of cedarwood and some musky notes that have some filthy vibe to them. In, is not a bad fragrance – it’s just not for me.

Last year Byredo introduced Rose of No Man’s Land. Considering the fact that they make quite a lot of perfumes lately I wasn’t very keen on trying this but I finally gave in. This new offering is pretty – that’s basically all I have to say. It’s a bright rose fragrance made of hundreds of petals in saturated red color. It’s floral all the way, almost like a soliflore because other notes such as raspberry blossoms or pink pepper make it more sweeter and more girly with a gentle touch of soft spiciness placed in the background. There is also some amber and papyrus that give it a slightly woody vibe and at least in my case I smell something kind of medicinal in the base. Rose of No Man’s Land is a very girly scent but you’d expect something more complex.

Baccarat Rouge 540 is a late 2015 release from Maison Francis Kurkdjian. This perfume starts with a rich note described as amberwood. Indeed it smells woody but also has some resinous and kind of sappy facets that become more defined after 20 or so minutes. Then there is fir resin which is so nice, aromatic and green that it almost transports you to the depths of evergreen forests. The smell is warm, woody, slightly pine-y and at the same time very comforting. Addition of saffron brings in the creamy and delicious spiciness that nicely surrounds the other accords that kind of immerse in the saffron aroma. Jasmine here smells more clean and fresh, providing a nice twist to this fragrance dominated by woody and aromatic tones.

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14 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 32

  1. Cornelia Blimber says:

    Ha, Monday sniffs again. None of the perfumes seems to be interesting …”not bad”, ‘girly”( and what is elemi? something Japanese?).
    Maybe the Kurkdijan, I like saffron, also in perfume.
    Is Amberwood the same thing as Ambroxan?

    • lucasai says:

      Some people adore these perfumes for sure. But not me apparently. Elemi is a resin Cornelia πŸ˜‰
      I think Amberwood and Ambroxan are two different things

  2. rickyrebarco says:

    Baccarat Rouge 40 sounds nice. Will have to sample. Thanks so much. Others have said the Rose of No Man’s Land smells like dead or dying roses, like roses ready for the garbage. Did you get any of that? It’s always great to see your new reviews!

    • lucasai says:

      Hope you can track a sample nearby. Dead roses – interesting. I don’t get the feeling like they were “unfresh” roses but there was something bloody about them πŸ˜›

  3. Cornelia Blimber says:

    Dying roses? I love that kind of smells. Would be interesting. Before 1989, Femme had a note of fruit on the verge of decay, so sorry that it’s gone.

  4. Cornelia Blimber says:

    Some absolutely do! It was not that unusual, it was a kind of understream, contrabalance, to the rest of the perfume ( if that makes sense; if I can express what I mean. Some perfumes are not more unusual, but only more interesting and beautiful with some dirt in their smell. Take for instance vintage Joy. Dirtier than the current one (still beautiful). Something slightly rotten in it ( could it be natural civet? than I am happy that it is gone).
    Well, it’s only my idea.

    • lucasai says:

      i know, some perfume need that gentle touch of roughness and skunk to become beautiful. For me the nicest (but maybe not the best example) is Ambra di Luna from Ramon Monegal – it just wouldn’t smell the same, sexy and sensual way if it didn’t have castoreum in it.

  5. hajusuuri says:

    MQS!!! I am looking forward to trying the Baccarat Rouge 540; I have a deluxe sample on hand. The Byredo smelled like dead flowers to me (like Rickyrebarco said)…almost on the verge of being considered potpourri. In sounds like it is very wispy and thin. What does elemi by itself smell like? I don’t like the name — it gives me the heebie jeebies, just like calone. BTW, I’m glad I spell checked because calone initially got corrected to calzone — I KNOW what that smells like :-). Be well, my friend!

    • lucasai says:

      Sorry you had to wait for so long for new portion of them. Great that you have a nice sample of Baccarat Rouge 540. And you also seem unimpressed by Byredo one.
      I didn’t smell elemi essential oil but it’s resinous/green as fas as I know.

  6. Holly says:

    The first two sound kinda meh to me, but Baccarat Rouge 540 sounds kinda nice. Of the three, it’s the only one I might get a sniff of. However, I immediately latched onto fir, saffron and jasmine and ignored the woods. There is a woody drydown in so many perfumes that bores me to tears!

    I hope you’ll pop in tomorrow so we can all wish you a happy birthday. πŸ™‚

    • lucasai says:

      Seems like Baccarat Rouge 540 sounds like the most interesting out of these three for more of you πŸ™‚
      Hah, so many woody drydowns these days, huh? Some are good, some are worse

  7. Undina says:

    I’m curious about Baccarat Rouge (and will try it once I see it at a store). I will try that Byredo’s perfume though I do not expect to like it – but who knows? And unless it falls in my lap, I do not even consider testing that strangely named perfume in a cheap-looking bottle.

  8. Cornelia Blimber says:

    ”so many woody drydowns these days”…interesting. Could that be because of the cashmeran, so often used in the drydown? or am I wrong?
    Maybe you could write a post about good and bad woody drydowns.

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