Hermes seems to be one of those brands that is widely liked by perfume community out there. Robin at NST loves them, so did Birgit from Olfactoria’s Travels. Sure that perfumery isn’t their original field of work but they’ve been fragrance market insiders for so long now (since 1951) that you just can’t say they’re not a perfume house – especially that they have their own in-house perfumer. If you have been following my journey through Chemist in the Bottle and maybe other websites you will know that I tried to love Hermes fragrances but after many failures I’ve given up on this house, I stopped to follow what’s new for them so I don’t get too excited about perfume that probably wouldn’t work for me or that I couldn’t even sample. Then this happened…
…In late February I was on a business trip to Paris in order to visit IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances) headquarters to introduce me and my colleagues to the new fragrance collections that were designed for the company that I work for. The purpose of this meeting was also to have a little round-up of more interesting launches from 2015. We samples mostly mainstream novelties but there were also a few niche positions. And there was Le Jardin de Monsieur Li by Hermes. Even though it was a busy and tiring day (I did 4 flights in 16 hours!) as I was on my way to Poland this perfume just didn’t want to leave my head. I smelled a Hermes fragrance… and I liked it!
Haunted by thoughts about it I decided to give it a few tries. And guess what!? Not much time later (read – as soon as I got a discount coupon) I decided to buy a 50 ml bottle of Hermes Le Jardin de Monsieur Li. How does it smell to me? Initially it’s green, but not green green in your face but a subtle, sheer green aroma has invited me. A little bit like a cut grass but quickly evolving towards more Asian ideology, especially the bamboo plants. It has a specific dewiness that is refreshing and slightly citrusy. There’s also something aromatic about it and I suspect this will be a mint doing.
Mind you – there is no standard mint in this Hermes. You won’t find a smell of toothpasteor mouth spray here. Mint is much more watery. Yes, watery is a good word as I usually find a word aquatic to be more negatively charged. Le Jardin de Monsieur Li undergoes minimal changes over the day. As hours go by it becomes more fruity and citrusy with a kumquat accord. Tart at the beginning and more sweet after some time. Jasmine introduces an ethereal floral veil to this composition and I somehow find it very calming, relaxing. There is also a clean-like effect to it. At times I could almost mistake it for neroli. I suppose it’s because the scent of flowers and fruits is almost unified.
If Hermes Le Jardin de Monsieur Li were a painting, it could look for example like this art piece above. The painting would be made in watercolor, so that all different shades used in it had a very light, almost transparent color. Green hue of grass and leaves on the trees would gradually melt into a tender blue of peaceful pond. Delicate pink and beige will represent jasmine blossom in this Chinese garden. The more bright pink shrub in the middle could be a kumquat. A dreamy landsape.
Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena said – “I remembered the smell of ponds, the smell of jasmine, the smell of wet stones, of plum trees, kumquats and giant bamboos. It was all there, and in the ponds there were even carp steadily working towards their hundredth birthday.” You can smell all this in Le Jardin de Monsieur Li. It’s his memory, his vision… and you can smell it. This eau de parfum has a really low sillage but surprises me with a rather nice longevity as it usually manages to survive through my day at work. Maybe Hermes is not completely lost for me yet?
[note] picture 1 – from Hermes website, picture 2 – from loveyourspace.blogspot.com