A peaceful stroll around beautiful zen garden arranged by Monsieur Li managed to restore my faith in Hermes fragrances. When I already thought the brand really has nothing to offer that would draw my attention I managed to find a gem hidden in a bottle of Le Jardin de Monsieur Li. Since then I kept my eye open on their next releases. Recently I tried two new eau de colognes that Hermes launched for the summer. I wouldn’t say about Eau de Neroli Doré that it was instant love. It was infatuation.
Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena speaks about Eau de Neroli Doré with the following words – “Whereas there’s usually very little neroli in perfumes, I used an abundance of it, out of love, out of the ordinary.” He’s telling the truth, however not the obvious one. To me Eau de Neroli Doré really overflows with essence extracted from orange blossom. But when I think of the perfumes with higher neroli amount that I know, most of them had the effect of an ice-cold slap in your face. In most cases this note is associated with cold and fresh sensation, with a burst of fragrance.
Interpretation from Hermes is almost like the very opposite. Neroli also bursts in this new scent in Les Colognes line but where one was expecting a big bouquet of white flowers with hues of yellow and orange, one in fact will find a very elegant and sunny warm bouquet in pastel colors with very little of brighter shades. Eau de Neroli Doré has this shy yet charming subtlety that I find truly captivating. The citrusy aspect of neroli blended with the smell of bitter orange is rather juicy, toned down and it feels as refreshing as a glass of handmade lemonade on a hot day.
15 minutes later things start to spice up a little bit and Hermes Eau de Neroli Doré becomes even warmer than it was. Very unusual note used by Jean-Claude Ellena in this fragrance is a saffron note. This is not a clear choice for a cologne but then – it feels so right. Saffron introduces the element of warm spiciness that is just slightly earthy and then as it settles on the skin it kind of turns musky in a very arousing way. It becomes incredibly sensual and wears like a second skin. To me it even unveils a very delicate leather note in a drydown. It’s barely there but it’s there.
The concoction of neroli, bitter orange, saffron and the musky elements is seductive in its own, distinctive way. It’s also brings pictures to your mind easily and I’m sure each of us would have a different vision. The smell of Eau de Neroli Doré makes me think of a Monday morning. You just woke up next to someone you love and you don’t want to go out of bed. But you get up from the safety of your quilt & your body is still warmed up – your skin smells of bed linen, it also smells of the other person… and it smells of you. To me this perfume is like a veil of second skin. Addictive.
Eau de Neroli Doré by Hermes is a part of Les Colognes collection. The fragrance is in eau de cologne concentration and comes in 100 ml yellow glass bottle or in 15 ml bottle as a part of travel set. The small bottle is yellow too. Apart the fragrance there are also matching body products available: shower gel, liquid soap and face/body cream. Even if the lasting power of Eau de Neroli Dore is only around 2-3 hours it’s still worth a bottle to me, just for the pleasure it gives for this time.