They say that “three times is a charm” and this saying ideally fits Anatole Lebreton, a man who I met few months ago in Milan during Esxence. His professional career began on stage, as an actor. Then he owned a shop where he was selling fine chocolates and rare teas. Thanks to these Anatole improved his taste and smell skills and eventually got interested in perfumery, started some experiments, improved his skills and now he launches his own perfume line. made of 4 creations at the moment. The range is very diverse so I believe everyone will find a one to like.
Incarnata is a very beautiful perfume created in a very specific style. Composition of this perfume opens with delightful powdery notes. Ar first the powder feels dry but after a while it becomes more moist and structured. Violet accord used in this fragrance has a very beautiful smell. It’s powdery in a very elegant and feminine way. At the same time it feels luxurious and posh. Side to side with the powdery vibe is a floral facet. It has a very light color and gentle nature. After 10-15 minutes the concentration of irones goes up when the smell of orris root joins the composition.
It’s this very note that introduces the moist and this soft, buttery feeling to the powdery opening of Anatole Lebreton Incarnata. The perfume feels so smooth, like a body balm that creates a deliciously scented veil. What I love about this stage is the fact that it has this secret sweet back note. This note brings to my mind a picture of entering a room at a luxurious hotel. As you step into the bedroom you notice a tiny package on top of the cushion. It’s just a couple of violet-flavored powder candies with a note wishing you a good stay. It’s a small gesture that brings a smile to your face. Smelling Incarnata gives me this kind of smile. It’s like a small mood-lifter.
After some time this composition from Anatole gains some more body when suede joins the blend. This particular note, with its delicate, fuzzy smell is gentle enough to fit the idea behind Incarnata perfectly and at the same time it’s strong enough to add substantivity. It’s also paired with resinous myrrh which is softener with vanilla for more refined and smooth finish. At some point powdery note makes a return and now it has a more cosmetic vibe. It’s like a scented loose powder on top of vanity table of some very stylish lady. It’s luxurious, kind of playful and full of vigour.
The drydown becomes even a little bit more heavy if you ask me. Suede smells to me now more like a leather accord and there is plenty of resinous elements that add complexity. There is a luminous amber and benzoin that has a smoky touch. Incarnata has become balsamic in a very enticing and seductive way. In this late stage I found a surprise in a form of raspberry note. It appeared out of a sudden with its juicy sweetness that quickly merged with the whole creation and enriched Incarnata with a sweet & powdery sensation. The perfume is full of embrace and caring feeling.
All in all, Incarnata by Anatole Lebreton is a lovely composition, created with care for small details and with use of good quality ingredients. The perfume veers more towards feminine side but I believe men could also wear it or they could try layering it with something else (with more leather or tobacco maybe?) There is something theatrical, burlesque-like about this perfume, mostly because of the powdery smell present through the entire composition. Incarnata has moderate sillage and good longevity. This eau de parfum comes in 50 ml bottle.