Sweet gesture, Anatole Lebreton Incarnata

They say that “three times is a charm” and this saying ideally fits Anatole Lebreton, a man who I met few months ago in Milan during Esxence. His professional career began on stage, as an actor. Then he owned a shop where he was selling fine chocolates and rare teas. Thanks to these Anatole improved his taste and smell skills and eventually got interested in perfumery, started some experiments, improved his skills and now he launches his own perfume line. made of 4 creations at the moment. The range is very diverse so I believe everyone will find a one to like.

Incarnata is a very beautiful perfume created in a very specific style. Composition of this perfume opens with delightful powdery notes. Ar first the powder feels dry but after a while it becomes more moist and structured. Violet accord used in this fragrance has a very beautiful smell. It’s powdery in a very elegant and feminine way. At the same time it feels luxurious and posh. Side to side with the powdery vibe is a floral facet. It has a very light color and gentle nature. After 10-15 minutes the concentration of irones goes up when the smell of orris root joins the composition.

It’s this very note that introduces the moist and this soft, buttery feeling to the powdery opening of Anatole Lebreton Incarnata. The perfume feels so smooth, like a body balm that creates a deliciously scented veil. What I love about this stage is the fact that it has this secret sweet back note. This note brings to my mind  a picture of entering a room at a luxurious hotel. As you step into the bedroom you notice a tiny package on top of the cushion. It’s just a couple of violet-flavored powder candies with a note wishing you a good stay. It’s a small gesture that brings a smile to your face. Smelling Incarnata gives me this kind of smile. It’s like a small mood-lifter.

After some time this composition from Anatole gains some more body when suede joins the blend. This particular note, with its delicate, fuzzy smell is gentle enough to fit the idea behind Incarnata perfectly and at the same time it’s strong enough to add substantivity. It’s also paired with resinous myrrh which is softener with vanilla for more refined and smooth finish. At some point powdery note makes a return and now it has a more cosmetic vibe. It’s like a scented loose powder on top of vanity table of some very stylish lady. It’s luxurious, kind of playful and full of vigour.

The drydown becomes even a little bit more heavy if you ask me. Suede smells to me now more like a leather accord and there is plenty of resinous elements that add complexity. There is a luminous amber and benzoin that has a smoky touch. Incarnata has become balsamic in a very enticing and seductive way. In this late stage I found a surprise in a form of raspberry note. It appeared out of a sudden with its juicy sweetness that quickly merged with the whole creation and enriched Incarnata with a sweet & powdery sensation. The perfume is full of embrace and caring feeling.

All in all, Incarnata by Anatole Lebreton is a lovely composition, created with care for small details and with use of good quality ingredients. The perfume veers more towards feminine side but I believe men could also wear it or they could try layering it with something else (with more leather or tobacco maybe?) There is something theatrical, burlesque-like about this perfume, mostly because of the powdery smell present through the entire composition. Incarnata has moderate sillage and good longevity. This eau de parfum comes in 50 ml bottle.

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21 thoughts on “Sweet gesture, Anatole Lebreton Incarnata

  1. Cornelia Blimber says:

    Detailed review as always! actually I would like to add a violet to my collection, I tried La Violette by Goutal, too sharp. Maybe Incarnata is the one, if I can find it.
    Why should a man not wear powdery perfumes? I think a man can wear anything as long as he likes it. In the 17th century, men wore even tuberose!
    Maybe it could be layered with something with violetleaves in it, like Grey Flanel? or a dry iris?

    • lucasai says:

      I’m happy to provide a few more violet ideas if you need.
      It’s not that man shouldn’t wear powdery perfumes. I wear many powdery perfumes. It’s just that Incarnata feels more burlesque, Moulin-Rouge type of perfume, not exactly destined for men.

    • hajusuuri says:

      Cornellia, have you tried Atelier Cologne Sous le toit de Paris? It has violet leaf and just gives off a very slight powdery edge, kind of like violet on a diet and perfect for those who find violet-forward perfumes challenging / off-putting.

  2. jillie says:

    Want, want, want ……..!!!! This year I have really been entranced by powdery, almost sweet perfumes, and of course I have always been violet’s number one fan. Coupled with a new-found attraction for a touch of raspberry and a desire for a “comfort” scent, I honestly think this could have been made for me. To top this, the idea that a former actor has turned his hand to the magic of creating fragrance – well, that’s the icing on the cake!

  3. Holly says:

    This sounds like another winner! After the epic fail of Misia for me, I’m hoping this one will be more to my liking. Thank you for the beautiful review, Lucas!

    • lucasai says:

      Hiya Holly. Misia didn’t work for me either. Now I would like to try Chanel Boy. Maybe its something you could get for me?

    • jillie says:

      Hi Holly! Hope you don’t mind me butting in but I have a theory ….. Chanel reformulated Misia already! I got my first sample immediately it was released, but later samples just are not the same. Of course (as ever) this is denied, but I have a sneaky feeling that nothing is as good as the first batch, which I actually rather liked. I know that all sorts of factors can influence the finished product and that no issues will be identical to those going before, but still … I have the two which I can test side by side and the newer one is definitely not as gorgeous.

      • Holly says:

        Hi jillie! Eek! Reformulated already? I got my sample of Misia when it first was introduced, but I found that the powder note smelled like rancid old makeup and horchata on me. I had a whole past-her-prime Bette Davis scene playing in my head. (Joan Crawford was in it, too.) Were you planning on purchasing Misia?

        The blogosphere is abuzz with the changes coming for the Exclusifs – I’ll butt in with the link in case you haven’t read it:

        http://www.basenotes.net/threads/422861-Chanel-Exclusifs-in-EDP-from-2017-no-more-EDT-production-after-Sep-2016

        • jillie says:

          Thank you dear Holly. I had heard a rumour and it’s enlightening to read your link. In my humble opinion Misia isn’t as strong as it originally was, so turning it into an EDP might bring it back to that strength …. but yikes, the cost! I will not be buying.

          Love the Bette Davis and Joan Crawford scenario! Misia seems to be quite a polarising fragrance – personally I do love peachy powderyness but I guess the makeup accord can skew very old lady! Or black and white movie star (in a not good way!).

  4. hajusuuri says:

    If I could LIKE this post 10x I would. I feel like just going out to buy a ginormous sample and just bathe in it. I will need to look for a retailer soon. Have you tried Ex-Nihilo Sweet Morphine? I think I can get addicted to it too! Bravo on the review!

  5. rickyrebarco says:

    Sounds very lovely, Lucas. I’ve been cheering on your countrymen in the Euro 2016. I’m a football lover and an admirer of Lewandowski.

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