I don’t know if you’d agree with me or not but I think that in the perfume world there are various level of difficulty when it comes to perfumers work. Some rely purely on synthetics, some use mixed media and then there are creators who only work with natural essences. And I dare to say they have the toughest job in compositing a fragrance that will have enough depth, complexity and desired long-lastiness. Hiram Green is one of those perfumers who work at their own pace and who doesn’t like to stand in the spotlight. He truly devotes himself to work without extra bling around it.
A new fragrance from Hiram Green, called Dilettante is an homage to an orange tree in its whole existence. The perfume opens on my skin with prominently lavish accord of orange blossom. In the initial stage it doesn’t bloom but it explodes on the skin with an enormous bouquet of white flowers. The start is pungent, harsh and surprisingly indolic. I think I’ve never smelled orange blossom note that could be so easily mistaken for jasmine. After 20-30 minutes this very potent opening calms down a little bit and that’s where neroli joins the composition.
It becomes milder and softer now yet the perfume remains quite edgy for a long time. Vivid concoction of citrusy and floral qualities gradually evolves and more and more verdancy sneaks into the structure of Dilettante. At some point there is enough greenery in the fragrance that you can distinguish petitgrain – another part of orange tree, its green leaves to be more precise. Petitgrain introduces a crispy and crunchy feeling that goes well with the bright character of orange flower essences. However after a while things start to rearrange, giving new impressions.
As time goes by, petitgrain develops its usual dusty facet that is a few shades darker than the composition was until now. Side to side with dusted orange tree leaves goes the woody impression that in this case could only be associated with a trunk of orange tree. Woody aroma is sublime and well-balanced. It’s not too strong, not too weak. All of these aromas are so realistic that they manage to give you a feeling as if you were sitting under the tree. And every time a wind blows, you hear the rustle of leaves and you catch wafts of rich floral aroma. It’s dreamy and tranquil.
Another part of orange tree that Hiram Green wants us to discover is a fruit itself. When orange appears in the structure of Dilettante it’s rather zesty, with a lot of aromatic zing to it. Because of this citric bitterness I get the impression as if I was experiencing a fruit that is unripe. But the perfume keeps evolving and orange ripens, allowing me to smell a fruity pulp at some point of development. When I smelled it, sweet and sour aromas started to mix in my nose. I find this part to be quite contrasted especially that on one hand the pulp smells tart, almost astringent. On the other hand it feels quite juicy. You might smell it differently but you’d probably agree that it’s a happy smell.
For the next couple of hours Hiram Green Dilettante remains steady and doesn’t undergo any big changes. Its note shimmer and rustle once in a while. The noticeable change on my skin was the fact that edges of this perfume blur step by step and notes become more tight and compact, closer to each other. After 5 hours I would say, Dilettante develops a new quality. Out of the vast crown of an orange tree an unexpected spiciness emerges. It smells dry to me, kind of peppery but there is also something very sultry about it. Spicy cloud spreads around turning the perfume into a sensual, carnal fragrance. Not sure about it at all but I have a hunch there could be some saffron too.
Hours pass but Dilettante fails to disappoint. In the drydown it reveals an interesting resinous accord. There is something woody and smoked about it, reminiscent of a campfire. You know the smell of burning wood. This is the kind of smokiness that I get from a drydown of new Hiram Green fragrance. This feeling is really quiet and toned down and you might find it weird but I find this aroma to be reassuring. It’s like the perfume has gone from the dawn of orange blossom, noon of neroli, lazy afternoon of rustling petitgrain and now it reaches an evening with bonfire.
Considering the fact that Dilettante is an all-natural eau de parfum it has amazing lasting power (8 hours and still going strong) and a projection which is just as good. The composition made by Hiram Green is really complex, even if given notes of petitgrain, orange blossom and orange might not suggest it, there is much more hiding within this perfumed juice. The fragrance comes in 50 ml size in a completely new bottle design which displays a new brand logo. It’s a lovely change.