There are many reasons and motifs why people decide to venture into a creative field of perfumery. Some are inspired by contemporary art or by ancient history. Some find inspiration among amazing pieces of photography while others find their muse among movies. Inspiration can hide in time, in places, in pictures and in words. Pissara Umavijani has found her inspiration in her deep love towards her family, especially towards her father Montri and in his poetry. I was truly moved when 6 months ago Pissara emailed me to tell that she’s been following my blog for a long time and thanks to it & many other blogs and websites she’s been reading, she finally found a courage to chase her dream and establish own perfume brand. Parfums Dusita had its debut earlier this year with 3 fragrances and during Pitti Fragranze this September attendees could preview two new perfumes which will launch early next year. Object of this review is one of those upcoming releases.
La Douceur de Siam opens with a well-camouflaged rose de mai accord. At first undefined in a big bouquet of flowers, it peeks out only once in a while but this rose is not ready to give up and after a few minutes it becomes more prominent. Blended together with sultry, almost tropical frangipani it reveals its astonishing nature. It smells incredibly creamy and intoxicating with many rosy pink elements flickering here and there, like a top-class dessert made with lots of sweet, heavy cream and pink sugar sprinkles on top. Then champaca joins the composition and transforms the perfume.
What at first was a sweet, custardy and almost gourmand rose now becomes more beasty, wild and animalic. This rose evolves into carnal and frivolous being. Richness of this rose de mai is exceptionally impressive. It smells intense and deep & it’s not only pink or red – it’s more of a kaleidoscopic flower; each time you smell it, it leaves a slightly different impression. At some point carnation joins the flower divas of La Douceur de Siam but it’s a bit different from other carnations I know. They’re usually floral and spicy while in new Dusita perfume it smells green, with a vegetal, leafy tone – as if it didn’t bloom yet. Later a lot of ylang ylang appears glamorously, effusing its tropical, yellowish creaminess. I haven’t smelled such complex floral bouquet for long time.
Floral bouquet is in the center of attention for a long time but after 2 hours it becomes softer and more blurry. At this point of development rose ascends to the top, at the same time changing the color of its petals from bright to deep-dark shades of red. It undergoes an oriental revolution when it forms a fragrant duet with cinnamon. The latter adds a tingly, sparkling spiciness that highlights depth and multi-dimensional character of La Douceur de Siam. For a brief moment I also got a feeling that I perceived as more woody, like a bark of cinnamon tree. Then a little bit of clove joins the composition and provides this lovely sweet’n’spicy sensation that in a small part reminded me of baking gingerbread. It’s pleasantly warm, sensual and inviting. Enveloping too.
This perfume also contains an ingredient I haven’t heard of before. It’s Thai chalood bark and is described as sensual, woody, vanillic spice accord from old Siam. I can’t tell you that I smell the note in new Dusita fragrance as I don’t know how it smells in its raw state but I can definitely smell elements that describe it. Without a doubt I smell something woody with a smoky vanillic undertone. During the next few hours La Douceur de Siam effuses its charming complex of rose, yellow flowers and spices. Later there comes the moment when vanilla becomes stronger but it’s accentuated in more balsamic way reminiscent of benzoin, rather than in a sweet way. Sandalwood from Mysore brings more substantivity and smoothness to the drydown of the fragrance. Alluring soul of the scent is maintained with amber note that is bright and luminous like a first ray or morning sun. Ambergris is a source of depth with a hint of mineral saltiness and little animalism that is truly appealing. On my skin they manifest themselves in a slightly leathery and powdery way.
La Douceur de Siam is a special perfume. Rich in various perfume ingredients it represents complexity and depth characteristic to old-fashioned perfumery but at the same time the fragrance has a modern character to it. Perfumer and owner of the brand, Pissara Umavijani shows us through this fragrance how talented she is. Gaining a lot of applause among perfume enthusiasts she will soon join the same top class of young generation perfumers as Cecile Zarokian and Luca Maffei. New Parfums Dusita artwork lasts beyond 14 hours mark with an intense sillage at first and more intimate one after a few hours. It’s so easy to love and even more delightful to wear.
If you felt curious about La Douceur de Siam you will have to be a bit patient because the perfume won’t be available for purchase until early 2017. But courtesy of Pissara we have a special treat for you today. We can give away 3 discovery sets, each consists of five 7ml travel sprays (5 x 7ml). You’ll get a chance to discover full world of Dusita. All you have to do is follow Chemist in the Bottle, like this post and leave a comment telling what part of the review was most appealing to you. Entries are accepted until 3rd of November. Winners will be announced few days later.