One of the toughest part of being a perfume lover is being patient. As it all comes down to patience when you’re awaiting a new fragrance from your favorite brand or from a favorite perfumer. You’re waiting for that one moment when you will be able to try it and until it happens the excitement rises every day. Similar situation happened to me earlier this year. In April, when I went to Excence I was shown a sample of new Atelier des Ors name, under a work title of Iris Musque.
I loved it and was hoping to put my hands on some more of it but it wasn’t launched for a very long time. Actually I was starting to get a little worried if a company didn’t change their mind and decided not to release it in the end. Luckily my waiting was rewarded and in September at Pitti Fragranze I was officially introduced to new Atelier des Ors – Iris Fauve. My nose confirmed that it was the same fragrance and the only thing that changed was the name, reworked due to registering problems that occurred on the way. It appeared that this name was already taken.
On my skin Iris Fauve opens with a rather dry fragrance of vetiver that has a sharp edge to it for the first couple of minutes. After 10, maybe 15 minutes its edges become softer and the note transforms into more substantial version of itself. It remains dry for quite a long time and in this dryness it makes me think of the tall grass of pampas (with a slight hay note underneath). At some point vetiver becomes more woody with a typical manner reminiscent of cedar wood.
In the meantime, when vetiver is still very present & gradually changes its shape, iris begins to emerge on top of the composition of the new Atelier des Ors perfume. It’s well camouflaged at first because it enters in its rooty domain so it blends together with vetiver in a blend that at first is rather tough to identify. But as the perfume starts to dissipate and notes get more space separately, iris becomes more pronounced. At this point it also starts to change.
After a rooty facet iris blooms and unveils a buttery side. Do you remember how Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue smells like? Iris Fauve smells like its close relative with the main difference being the fact that the latter puts more accent on velvety side of iris. It has a beautiful smell, very elegant and glamorous. At 45 minutes mark I finally start to smell much-anticipated powdery facet of the iris. I adore this part of development because it doesn’t veer towards cosmetic odours of blush or face powder. Instead it reminds me more of rice powder. It’s slightly more like talcum, but a very luxurious and expensive one, where iris facets – rooty, buttery and powdery entwine.
Even more things start to happen in Atelier des Ors Iris Fauve later on. When cinnamon joins the composition and begin to effuse its pleasant and tingly warm spiciness, it somehow effortlessly enhances a performance of iris. On my skin it felt as if iris was about to bloom again. After a couple of hours I detect wafts of cypress surrounding the central iris accord. Thanks to it the perfume feels more festive to me. There are also other spicy notes in the blend. I’m not 100% sure but I think I smell bits of pink pepper, some cloves and on top of that I reckon there is a cocoa note.
The last one provides a smooth wave of very sheer, gentle sweetness that then seamlessly becomes one with sandalwood. It’s a bright, luminous one. Very smooth and rich in fragrance that I would describe as creamy-woody. Few more hours have passed and drydown notes start to play quietly. There is labdanum blended with hints of myrrh (luckily more labdanum here) that provide a sensual, balsamic base to Iris Fauve. There is also a whole lot of musk in the drydown. It’s on the edge of being and not being animalic but because of patchouli it is more earthy which is actually very good for this perfume as it gives more complexity to the whole composition.
Iris Fauve by Atelier des Ors has a very good longevity and moderate sillage. This beautiful and complex iris was composed by perfumer Marie Salamagne. Facets of the iris sparkle in this perfume as if they were made of gold. Iris Fauve is concentrated at eau de parfum level and will be available in 100 ml bottles infused with tiny gold flakes. It’s a great option to wear for Christmas.