Spell of Esmeralda, Atelier Cologne Emeraude Agar

Somewhere in my consciousness I have it coded that every season of the year is associated with its unique color palette. I know it’s still Autumn technically but since it’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas around and temperatures are dropping lately I think of current day like it was Winter. Because of the festive season to me Winter is colored with silver, red (preferably in burgundy shade) but most of all – with green. I’ve been obsessed with dark green for many years, it was always my desire to own some clothes in a color of dark green glass (like this). When I noticed a new new Atelier Cologne I was attracted by the label but the juice attracted me too!


Emeraude Agar said “hello” to me with a tangy bergamot that is filled with tart, aromatic scent. It was literally a peak from behind the corner because not even 1 minute later the note was surrounded with a handful of black pepper. This dashing, straightforward aroma managed to engulf bergamot with very little effort. Pepper in this cologne absolue is quite piquant, with a lightly metallic edge and a big portion of warmth. There’s also something aromatic about it as the smell goes deep inside your nose, so don’t be surprised if you go a-choo upon first encounter with this new Atelier Cologne.

Later on angelica floats up to the top of the composition, effusing it’s warm, green-tinged aroma that develops on my skin into something slightly vegetal & rooty. Even though Emeraude Agar is quite a heavy perfume it doesn’t lack its cologne-DNA origins. Heart of the composition is fresh in a camphorous way. The perfume contains eucalyptus – blended with other notes it gives me an impression of mint and incense at the same time. I know it doesn’t make sense but to me it’s a fresh encens accord. Definitely not churchy but much more airy and ethereal. Subtle too.

Geranium note is introduced after a while. You won’t miss its presence as it spreads the smell of dewy, green & aromatic leaves that make a specific crunchy sound when you break them. They also give a sappy smell of plant juice that blends nicely with eucalyptus – this adds even more freshness. At some point geranium transforms into more floral version of itself and that seamlessly becomes a Turkish rose accord. Its absolue used in Atelier Cologne Emeraude Agar is a rich and oily, definitely suitable for oriental connotations such as this perfume.


Rose in this latest cologne absolue behaves like a chameleon, it changes its shape multiple times during a single wear. Upon appearing first it smells of high quality rose oil, but then it becomes more spicy that it makes me think of carnations! This goes even further on my skin and there is a moment where I’d swear that I was detecting lots of saffron instead of rose. No matter what it is, it smells absolutely divine and mesmerizing. There’s something dry about this stage but this dryness is very inviting and embracing. Well, Emeraude Agar doesn’t fail even a bit to impress me.

Over the next 4-5 hours the perfume maintained its warm character built from the combination of spicy pepper, rich rose and some other notes. After that time has passed the woodiness steps up to the next level by becoming even more accentuated. I mean woody notes were standing out earlier already but now they cut above other notes even higher. Emeraude Agar offers you a lot of Mysore sandalwood – a precious and rare material. In this particular case it possesses a quality of roughness. It’s a bulky piece of wood that hasn’t been polished or processed by humans.


Sandalwood is then followed by gaiac wood – it brings a dark nature of wood, that is smoky & resinous. Substantivity of this accord quickly steps out to the front row, leaving other notes behind. Moreover this emerald gem wouldn’t be complete without a final facet of Malayan oud. Fret not, it doesn’t smell overwhelming of gooey. It has a slightly medicinal, camphorous undertone but primarily it smells balsamic and smoky. All of the notes of Emeraude Agar combine in a fantastic perfume. The notes entwine, play with each other. As the time goes by some different nuances become visible. Great to see that acquisition by L’Oreal didn’t stop them from doing quality stuff. Their level is still very high and I’m happy about it.

Emeraude Agar, developed for Atelier Cologne by perfumer Jerome Epinette is a cologne absolue (pure perfume) that contains 18% of fragrance oil. It’s longevity and sillage are very good. The perfume is totally unisex but it tends to veer a bit more masculine way. The fragrance is available in a coffret with 200 ml bottle or separately as a 100 ml or 30 ml bottle. The flacon is covered with a thin layer of gold that beautifully compliments the green color of the label..

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8 thoughts on “Spell of Esmeralda, Atelier Cologne Emeraude Agar

  1. hajusuuri says:

    Well well well, it looks like someone is smitten and rightfully so based on your description. I’ll brave the Trump security detail on 5th Avenue and check this out before the holidays if I can! I’m glad to see the 30 mL bottle available from the get go. Did you end up with a FB?

    • lucasai says:

      Good luck! If only the small bottle had the green label – I swear I would hang in on my Christmas tree 🙂
      I got a 30 ml flacon as a gift from Atelier Cologne 😀

  2. Great review Lucas, as always! I love Atelier Cologne. The longevity is amazing. Emeraude Agar sounds very interesting. I’ll definitely look out for a sample. I do like a bit of black pepper!

    best wishes
    Sam x

    • lucasai says:

      Thanks a lot Sam. Me too, it’s one of my first niche brands I fell in love with and that love still continues.
      From the New duet I thought I would like Camelia Intrepide more but it was a pleasant surprise to like Emeraude Agar more

  3. Holly says:

    Fantastic review, and wow! this sounds like quite a fun ride and I’m looking forward to trying it. I’ve missed so many of the recent Ateliers, so a trip to the store is in order once the crazy holiday rush is done. 🙂

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you. I hope your Christmas preparations time is not overly stressful and that you’ll have a blissful experience going through all the Atelier Colognes that you haven’t sniffed yet

  4. Undina says:

    It was so busy at the store today that I completely forgot to look for this new perfume! I’ll need to try it soon: it sounds good in your description (but I agree: that green label would have been perfect on that small bottle!)

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