Monday Quick Sniffs, part 36


In September 2016 Oliver & Co. presented two new fragrances, Vaninger being one of them. As you might have guessed from its name, the composition focuses on vanilla and ginger. Right upon spraying it smells of zesty lemon and fruity kumquat but very shortly ginger takes over. It releases an uplifling, fizzy smell that is fresh, citric and spicy at the same time. Spiciness becomes more intense after 20 minutes, becoming more medicated – with a smell similar to ginger tea. Then vanilla joins the composition. Its first steps are very lightweight, powdery. After a while it fully unfolds and becomes more creamy & balsamic. Turmeric adds warmth to the blend and carries on the spicy vibe. Tolu, ambroxan and benzoin make it more sensual and balmy. The finish is powdery with musks, heliotrope and hint of hedione.


Also in September 2016 Rania J. had a new perfume named Cuir Andalou on display. It was originally showed on preview in April but it still needed some changes so it took few extra months to smell the final version. The perfume opens with quite a raunchy leather that packs a powerful punch. It’s a tough, thick leather taken straight from a workshop where it was dyed black. It’s quickly followed by oud that gives it even more nocturnal and strong feeling. Then there is saffron, really dry one. Following are sandalwood and vetiver that introduce rough woody facet to the composition. Cuir Andalou smells very rugged, rough. It takes some time until it softens – that happens when powdery notes of iris and violet start diffusing. There’s also some rose and patchouli that provide warm & spicy sensation. There’s also a bit of castoreum. It’s not the strongest and wildest leather perfume I know but it definitely is tough, associated with horse saddle and strong men.


Another September launch is Arquiste Él – a perfume inspired by Acapulco of 1978 and Armando’s Le Club disco. It opens with a straightforward note of aromatic rosmery and green, slightly spicy laurels. After few minutes the composition is enriched with clary sage and it all blends into a fougere note that is very masculine from the start. Not much later things start to get dirty when Él begins to release animalic notes of civet and castoreum. Only suitable word to describe it is to say it smells sweaty. Honey adds even more wilderness to the blend. Vetiver and geranium are responsible for creating a dry yet aromatic facet but it’s not even close to weakening the wild notes. Additional notes include cinnamon, cardamom and patchouli. The perfume is very musky, very carnal. This perfume screams testosterone and when I smell it I only imagine a tanned, muscular guy, with big, hairy chest and thick facial hair. A typical macho men. This is not a perfume for people who are not self-confident!

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10 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 36

  1. Holly says:

    Yay for MQS! Vaninger sounds like it might be up my alley. Cuir Andalou is probably too macho for me. I have tried El, and that wasn’t for me.

    • lucasai says:

      Yay you’re happy they’re back. Vaninger is quite ok, if you have trouble finding it I can decant a sample for you since I have a travel spray, it’s 15 ml I think.

      Cuir Andalou doesn’t beat my favorite leather and El is just not for me, I prefer Ella – but that’s too feminine to me!

  2. Undina says:

    I smelled El on paper but do not remember anything about it and, most likely, I won’t be trying it (I rather liked Ella – not sure that enough even to look for a sample to try at home).

    Vaninger’s notes sound like something I might like but I’ve never tried anything from the brand AND I don’t like the name – so unless I just stumble upon it somewhere, it’ll be a pass.

    The leather one… Nah… I have more than enough leather perfumes at the moment so I do not see myself looking for this one as well (especially since it didn’t live up to a full-fledged review on your blog 😉 ).

    Thank you for the public service: you tried those so that we didn’t have to 🙂

  3. hajusuuri says:

    Hooray for Monday Quick Sniffs! Vaninger (which my spell check “corrected” to “Vain her”) sounds wonderful! I’m pretty sure I’ve smelled the Rania J. and El although I don’t remember anything about them; I won’t bother with a re-sniff.

    • lucasai says:

      Hooray you’re here to read em. Love your autocorrect suggestions (especially those you mention at NST) Hope Vaninger will be to your liking when yu try it

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