Before perfume becomes a perfume there is a long way, time-consuming process that needs to be completed. Have you ever wondered how much work does it take to plant flower seeds, how much care and patience it requires until it buds, grows first leaves and finally blooms a first flower? In these terms gardeners are just as important as perfumers. Some years the harvest turns out to be extraordinary, thanks to many factors, such as good weather, plantators care. Extraordinary flower can inspire creators. It happened with L’Artisan Parfumeur when they launched Iris Pallida or Fleur d’Oranger. This time it’s Diptyque that got amazingly good crop of rose de mai in 2016.
Essences Insensees 2016 is a third element of the collection, joining previous editions that were dedicated to mimosa (2014) and jasmine (2015). Composition begins with a lush, mouth-watering smell of a basket overflowing with red fruit. It smells incredibly fresh & playful to me. I pick especially well the smell of raspberries, followed by a tart aroma of black currant buds plus a sweet-sour flavor of red currant. After some time this red fruit paradise becomes shiny and sweet thanks to a honey note involved in this fragrance. It engulfs the berries, making them smell custardy, like a simple desert. There is also something liquory about that part.
It doesn’t take long until Essences Insensees unveils its heart. Once it does I could quickly conclude that it’s simply gorgeous. Flowery tones don’t appear out of a sudden but they gradually build up. At first it’s dewy & transparent, then it goes through a crispy green stage that smelled similar to geranium leaf in my opinion. Finally the flower blooms fully on my skin and graciously presents its beauty. Even though this perfume is all about a rose bouquet it doesn’t smell overwhelming. It has a lot of grace and delicacy that make this perfume charming.
Floral fragrances can be easily overdone. In case of Diptyque Essences Insensees 2016 you’re dealing with a bouquet of roses but not in literal meaning. Rather than experiencing the fragrance of thousand flowers you smell the richness of them all. To me it’s like I was smelling a single rose flower from the crop but its aroma is so intense that it almost feels like I was surrounded by a whole plantation. The abundance of rose, hiding within precious rose essence and Rosa Centifolia absolute provide an olfactory journey to the heart of Grasse.
With time, flowery tones develop an extra powdery facet that is gentle and pure. There is also some dirtier earthiness, hints of patchouli appearing after a couple of hours of wearing this Diptyque creation. As a whole being, this perfume is brimming with happiness, at least in my opinion. I know that it might sound weird, because this fragrance is quite peaceful, tranquil. Still when I smell it, I feel happy. It doesn’t have to sparkle with good vibes. Maybe that’s what makes it different?
Essences Insensees 2016 is a limited edition perfume. It was created for Diptyque by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin. This special creation is held in a big, 120 ml bottle designed by Waltersperger. It looks like an onyx crystal, as the flacon is made of black, opaque glass that is cut in such a way to remind a jeweller work on a gemstone. The bottle has a bulb atomizer which makes it look more classy, a little bit retro. It’s lasting power is pretty good, with a moderate sillage.