Molecular flower, Aether Rose Alcane

Perfume enthusiasts often highlight how much they love natural ingredients in their fragrance. At the same time many of them express their negative attitude towards synthetic materials. They admit that they loathe, despise them. I don’t understand these people. And not just because I’m a chemist. If I like the perfume I don’t really care which part was harvested from the field and which was harvested in a process of lab synthesis. It’s the final effect that matters to me.

In last years we could observe the appearance of few new conceptual brands that were happy to admit their perfume is entirely made of synthetic ingredients – such as Nomenclature or Aether. And of course there was Escentric Molecules before them. Even if the concept is odd, the perfume is a perfume, is a perfume, is a perfume… and I want to try it. Aether debuted in 2016 as a new brand from Nicolas Chabot who revived Le Galion. I liked those scents, it’s not forbidden.

Among 6 fragrances I liked Rose Alcane the most. In the line each composition is dedicated to one iconic fragrance molecule & as you probably guessed already – Rose Alcane is a tribute to rose oxide. On my skin this perfume is opening with a tart & zesty smell of grapefruit that becomes watered down quite quickly and is followed by a gentle scent of rose. Aroma of rose had a sparkling, bubbly feeling to it and instantly it gave me an impression of smelling some champagne rosé.


The smell is uplifting, invigorating. It reminded me of Liquides Imaginaires Dom Rosa. After some time my nose was struck by a sudden metallic vibe. It was cold, tingly and surrealistic. As if someone threw an ice-cold cube of metal into your flute of champagne. Very strange feeling but at the same time Rose Alcane kept my attention awake. Metallic vibe subsides just as suddenly as it appeared. After that happened I was left with a dewy smell of flowers and greenery.

Rose continues to go on until the perfume fades to nothing. It is very pale and sheer. Dewy is a suitable word to describe it as it smells watery on my skin. It also blends with the smell of watered grass or some other water plant, like a bamboo or something. Rose Alcane lasts in this form for some time and before it releases its final breath, it smells to me of dewy apples & pears. It’s very gentle and transparent composition, a rather minimalistic one.

This offering from Aether would probably serve well to those of you who are not yet convinced if rose belongs to their perfumed fairytale or not. If someone is a rose fan, Rose Alcane might not be enough. It’s a good candidate for a perfume refreshment in the summer though, since it’s so light & airy. Shame the only size is 50 ml. A travel, pocket-size spray would be useful from time to time. Rose Alcane was composed by 2 perfumers: Amelie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel.

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10 thoughts on “Molecular flower, Aether Rose Alcane

  1. hajusuuri says:

    I’m intrigued by this based on your description. I will need to find a stockist and try it for myself! Great review!

    • lucasai says:

      Glad I could sneak in a feeling of something intriguing in my review.
      Let me know if you have trouble finding Aerther locally, I could decant a sample from my mini for you if needed

  2. Jillie says:

    Yay! I agree with you – it’s the smell that matters, not whether the ingredients are natural or synthetic. If the end result is good for my nose, I don’t care if it has been created entirely artificially in the chemist’s lab, or if maidens gathered jasmine flowers at dawn for the essential oil.

    Spookily your review chimes in a way with Portia’s on Friday about Paco Rabanne’s Metal (once my favourite perfume); not that Rose Alcane would smell similar, but because they both use rose oxide. I will have to have a sniff!

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you! Glad we’re on the same page on that matter. We should be always excited about final effect of a perfume, no matter the ingredients. Of course then we have to look if price does reflect quality of the juice.

      I’m making a mind note that you want to try it.

  3. Holly says:

    Sounds lovely! Like jillie, I wore Metal back in the day. I’ll have to seek this out.

    • lucasai says:

      Hope you find it interesting

    • Jillie says:

      Hi Holly! So nice that you were a Metal fan too. It’s very sad that it has gone. Have you ever found anything else that is similar? People recommend Rive Gauche, but that has been spoilt by reformulation.

      • Holly says:

        Hi Jillie! I actually bought some vintage Metal on either eBay or etsy. There is a version of it readily available online here in the US, but I haven’t tried it. Heaven knows I won’t blind buy, and don’t need 100 ml of anything.

        I also wore Calandre, did you?

        • Jillie says:

          Good morning dear Holly. I did wear Calandre, but Metal was my favourite. My absolute favourite was Nicky Verfaille’s Grain de Sable, which actually was pretty similar to Calandre, although I only recently appreciated that! I guess that the version of Metal readily available in the US now will be very much reformulated.

          Yes, 100 ml is a lot these days. Too much perfume and too little time to wear it all.

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