Italian niche brand Etro has recently introduced a new creation titled ManRose. This fragrance opens with a dash of juicy zestiness of bergamot that is shortly followed by a slightly pungent wave of Sichuan pepper. Later these two get a gently spicy-oriental twist thanks to cardamom and elemi. At some point rose starts to emerge from the composition. It has a green, herbal and crisp side because it has been paired with a dose of geranium. The overall feeling is fresh and quite airy, even despite frankincense that is swirling around. Drydown consists of a blend of woods that are quite dry yet smooth, vetiver that presents its more grassy, hay-like facet. There’s also amber that warms things up. Other notes are patchouli and leather. I especially didn’t recognize the latter one. All in all ManRose wouldn’t be enjoyable if it didn’t smell so flat on my skin and if it actually had some sillage or lasting power. To notice it, I had to smell my wrist from up close and the perfume faded away very quickly. Shame, because a bottle decorated with arabesque looks rather pretty.
Last month Montale has presented some new fragrances with So Iris Intense among them. Here I’d like to make a remark that it was the first time that I was curious to give this brand’s perfume a try since I smelled White Aoud few years ago. So Iris Intense starts with a delicate Calabrian mandarin accord that is juicy, sweet, tangy and quite mouth-watering but… it disappears after 5 minutes and then the perfume goes straight to iris. Iris here is earthy and rooty, a little bit muddy too. Combining aspects of carrot but there’s also some powdery vibe to it. It’s kind of like an iris party where all iris perfume gathered together and everyone lends something to Montale. Drydown comes early, with a smooth, rounded sandalwood (from Mysore, they say) and a big cloud of white musk that gradually starts to dominate, making the fragrance smell plain and more reminiscent of a laundry product. And I don’t like the
bottle can so that’s another issue for me. Even if it’s iris – I pass. Sorry – not sorry.
Last flanker to Gucci Guilty family – Gucci Guilty Absolute truly caught me by surprise by being so well done! Immediately after spraying it on paper or skin it bursts with a really intense leathery aroma. It’s pungent, loud – almost acrid and vicious. But the depth and dimension it gives is amazing. Vetiver which has been also used in overdose here is responsible for impressions such as woody, aromatic and earthy. Just with these 2 you can feel as if you were going down, deeper into the fragrance heart. Generally described woody notes create a solid base to Guilty Absolute while cypress gives a dark green hue to the blend. As the perfume spends some time on the skin it becomes more wild, developing an animalic facet. From the press release you can learn that this fragrance features 2 powerful aromachemicals: Woodleather® and Goldenwood® and that cypress (Nootka species) is natural. Also that there are 3 different patchouli oils inside. Guilty Asolute is not a perfume for me but I give it a thumbs up for being more original than most flankers are.