It’s been known since old times that flowers convey emotions. You could even say that flowers and their different colors are emotions themselves, crystallized in a shape of a blossom. Nowadays red roses are most popular symbol of love but in the past there was another great symbolic flower. In the times of knights those who wanted to find true love had their portrait painted with a red carnation – Sweet William to symbolize their search. Inspired by the legacy of flowers Carner Barcelona launched White Collection, a trio of fragrances – one of them being dedicated to Sweet William.
Sweet William the perfume opens with a prominent warmth of spicy notes that present themselves in a very elegant way. There is a white pepper note that gives warm and creamy spiciness which is much milder than the one associated with black pepper. Within 5 minutes the composition starts to become more textured. There’s a bunch of cardamom to add a crunchy facet with a roasted chestnut impression. In the top notes there’s also cinnamon bark from Laos – this one gives a lovely and tingly sweet-spicy vibe that I simply adore. After this opening the perfume smoothly transforms into floral heart.
Further into fragrance development comes a moment when all the spicy notes become softer and smoother and finally they transform from “spicy” spiciness to “floral” spiciness. Carnation reigns over Carner Barcelona Sweet William like a mighty queen. In this accord its warm, almost fiery floral aroma entwine with spices and unite with them. Secret to realistic impression is the use of Dianthus Superbus ScentTrek™, a Givaudan headspace technology that provided a true-smelling carnation accord. Next up is ylang-ylang that gives a creamy, slightly fruity feeling. It’s a ruly lovely smell that captivates the senses.
Later on I was able to smell a lot of iris, featured in Sweet William in a magnificent rendition. Its presence is highly accentuated through silkniness of its petals, their soft texture as well as a pretty powderness of its heart. There’s also a little bit of buttery and earthy molecules to it but powdery vibe is a dominating one. As time goes on the perfume becomes slightly more balmy thanks to styrax. Tobacco blossom introduces fresh spiciness that continues towards later notes.
Warmth of spices, fiery character of dianthus, powdery Florentine iris and everything else continuously swirls in a vortex of Sweet William. All these notes are present together however they never blend with each other to form some unidentified scent cluster. They co-exist and each is able to give its best feature towards this Carner Barcelona perfume. After good 6 hours the notes become more squeezed and their interactions turn more intensive when ambrarome (a Synamore molecule) enters the scene with its rich ambergris aroma. It also has hints of leather and nuts.
Close to the final form ambrarome wants to embrace the whole creation and wrap it into a warm, cosy blanket. But we’re not done yet. A bit of rose emerges quite late from the perfume – it smells airy and rich and the same time. Press release names it as rose water extract. In the drydown phase Sweet William smells delicately sweet with vanilla that has a little it of fizzy spiciness of galangal (a ginger relative). From this point, hour after hour it will slowly fade away.
Best thing about Carner Barcelona Sweet William is that it remains present on the skin for a whole day, even if in a gentle form at its late phase. Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux managed to create a multifaceted composition that has presence and that doesn’t lack dimension or substantivity. Sweet William is a truly enchanting flower that can burn as passionately as a desire for love. This brand new eau de parfum is hosted in Carner Barcelona signature bottle (100 ml) that can be distinguished among full portfolio of the brand thanks to the cap that is made of white wood.
Thanks to this perfume I’m even more of a fan of this brand. I could easily see myself wearing Sweet William on a regular basis pretty often. And I will tell you in secret that it was one of my favorites from Esxence 2017. If you’re a fan or iris and carnation like me, after trying it you’ll realize that new Carner is a double pleasure.