Monday Quick Sniffs, part 39


Blossom Love is the newest creation from Amouage & joins Lilac Love in brand’s Secret Garden Collection. This new perfume opens with a generous dose of cherry blossom. At first their aroma is very pale and transparent, ethereal and dewy but it takes less than 5 minutes until it starts to become more and more sweet. At some point the floral aroma of sakura blossom smells not like flower anymore but more like a liquor. Amaretto accord gives it the vibe of sweet and syrupy almond and that is followed by a hefty amount of vanilla pudding. Tonka bean and heliotrope add a creamy, powdery facet that has more of an oriental vibe. But the perfume is still sweet. Takes more time for suede and amber to appear, these 2 notes temper the sweetness to a non-diabetes level. Additional notes include ylang, rose and bergamot. To me this whole composition smells as if I opened a can of candied fruit immersed in a sweet and sticky syrup. Generally speaking there’s too much sugar for my taste.


Among recent fragrance developments by D.S. & Durga one that I managed to try is called White Peacock Lily. This composition opens with an easy to love, mouth-watering grapefruit that is sweet and juicy (therefore more like pomelo). In a blink of an eye it gains a lovely powdery facet that somehow made me think of powder detergent but a very good one. Like a fragrance of your childhood clothes, a fragrance that you’ll hold dear for your whole life. Then the composition becomes really creamy thanks to lily, which is really full-bodied here. Despite being fully present it doesn’t weight much. Blending it with watery notes and jasmine turned it into a concoction of breezy white flowers that are reminiscent of a warm wind on a summer day. Later there is ambrette and whipped cream for an interesting sweet musk facet. Vanilla and violet provide a long-lasting powderness that completes the composition. Additional notes include Nerium Oleander and Cabreuva, it’s my first time I see those ingredients in a perfume so I’m not familiar with their smell.


In 2015 Berdoues launched a new collection of Cologne Grand Cru with Arz el-Rab among them. Even thought these fragrances were introduced 2 years ago I haven’t had a chance to sniff a single one of them until March 2017, when I met the brand as one of exhibitors at Esxence. Arz el-Rab is being described by online perfume databases as a 3-notes-composition. It indeed is simple. The opening is a handful of ginger that keeps on changing for a while. At first it’s citric, almost like someone was squeezing a whole lemon next to you. Then it becomes more fizzy like bubbles of a sparkling water. It also has a ginger ale effect that gradually becomes more spicy, a tad more dry, even powdery at some point. Heart of the composition is the iris. Honestly I could mostly smell ginger but if that woody, earthy element that I detected, was an iris – then let it be. Body of the fragrance is a solid cedar. Not a raw wood trunk, a board – freshly cut, with a smell that people describe as “pencil shavings”. It has roughness and rigidity but at least it doesn’t smell of sweat. It’s a wood accord alright. Full evolution span is circa 1 hour and from that point it remains steady, except of losing its intensity of course. Good perfume for a summer refreshment in the evening.

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8 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 39

  1. Holly says:

    Blossom Love certainly does sound like an overdose of sugar, although I like some of the notes. I can handle a dry almond, but not amaretto. Lily is a no-go for me. I have a sample of Arz el-Rab that I haven’t sniffed yet. Is this your favorite of the Berdoues you tried? And what do you think of their bottles? I know there are many fans, but I haven’t seen one in person and I know that’s something you pay attention to.

    • lucasai says:

      My favorite from Berdoues is probably Assam od India, a citrusy tea fragrance. And I do like their bottles. Simple but different pattern for each fragrance is nice.

  2. Jillie says:

    Thanks for your quick sniff verdicts

    I like to taste amaretto, but not sure I want to smell of it! And I am steering clear of grapefruit right now as anything with this note suddenly smells of sweat to me – I even threw out a nice body lotion because I couldn’t bear to think its scent could be confused with Body Odour!

    Detergent also worries me – you know my despair over my lovely Persil Colour being “improved” so that it now stinks and I can’t use it – so I guess that means that out of the three, Arz el-Rab is the most appealing.

    I am so appreciative of your skill in describing perfumes and being able to detect the notes, thereby giving us a great idea of how they might smell and which ones would be good to sniff!

    • lucasai says:

      Blossom Love is definitely for someone who likes their perfume floral and sweet. To me it would be toothache inducing if I wore it for longer.
      I quite liked D.S & Durga offering, this detergent like phase was quite nice on my skin and its grapefruit doesn’t smell like sweat to me but I understand your concern. At work I have a fragrance concentrate named Pink Grapefruit, each time I have to make sample of it I get the feeling as if I was smelling dity socks.
      Arz el-Rab is nice, though simple and not strong.

  3. chocolatemarzipan8 says:

    yes to Arz el-Rab and the entire Berdoues collection…having four bottles shared among family members in the house I can also attest to the fact that the bottles are stunning….looking forward to more reviews from this line from you…maybe Assam of India ? (I wore that one exclusively last summer and my bottle has maybe 1/5 of the juice left)

  4. hajusuuri says:

    Ha! So it seems WordPress swallowed up my comment!

    These all look worrhy of a sniff, especially the Amouage. The Bwrdoues bottle looks different from the othera in tbe line. My Assam of India bottle has rows of elephants – so cute!

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