When love is a curse, Jul et Mad Fugit Amor

Since their brand’s founding in 2012, Madalina and Julien Blanchard became known as connoisseurs of beautiful things. In their fragrance creations they conveyed beauty of different stages of love such as first meeting, falling in love or even honeymoon. They have also shown us a beauty of travel through their scents inspired by distant places and cultures. In a new chapter we get to know what kind of beauty they see in art forms of painting, sculpture and tapestry. One that I’m going to tell you about today was inspired by a Rodin’s work in marble that holds the same title.

fugit-amor-gold

Fugit Amor reveal its presence on my skin in a very aromatic way. Right from the start I can smell a lot of ginger emanating from my skin. To my surprise it’s not as zingy and lemon-y as I used to know. Ginger in this perfume serves a purpose of more spicy ingredient. It carries a soft, fresh spiciness that is quite mouth-watering I must say, it nicely resembles the aroma of a yellow-tinged ginger pulp. However it doesn’t take long until the note starts to smell more brownish, as if you were smelling just its outer peel instead of pulp. It’s definitely becoming more earthy. It’s also getting more substantive and intensive as we speak.

Arising substance of Jul et Mad Fugit Amor comes from vetiver. This note also presents itself in quite aromatic and woody rendition. It has a wonderful sillage of a tender & elegant richness. At first its scent is more like a fragrant grass but then it slowly transitions into more woody territory, however its hard to say if it smells of any specific kind of wood. At some point there’s also a tingly sensation of piquancy, which absolutely makes sense as the perfume features pink pepper accord. I also noticed a crunchy texture at this stage, which is coming from cardamom.

After around 40 minutes I start to smell carnation note. Strength of this fiery flower is gradually building up, introducing a nice change to the sctructure of Fugit Amor. Its fragrance is warm and sensual, setting you in the mood for cuddles. Aside of the floral aspect there’s also a sweet clove facet to this chord. Once carnation accord accommodates on my skin a very interesting thing happens. My skin mutes the fragrance so that it becomes soapy and clean. I didn’t expect such turn of events but I have to say that I love it! Smelling this soapy vibe instantly made me think of a very rich, luxurious soap a barber would use in his salon to shave some gentlemen. It’s a little bit a’la Infusion d’Homme from Prada, but more dry-woody and spicy-floral. I truly fancy this effect.

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The smell of barbershop soap lingers on my skin for a couple of hours. During that time it continues to be clean but other notes shift – one moment it’s vetiver that is predominant, the other time it’s carnation. Once these few hours pass, a soapy vibe subsides & that’s when Fugit Amor start to effuse a generous dose of elemi. Its becoming balsamic in an instant. There’s richness and texture to this balmy aromaterial. There’s also something slightly salty and incensy about elemi here. Generally speaking new Jul et Mad turns out to be true chameleon on my skin.

fugit-amor

Drydown, which still carries the remains of woody veriver, warm carnation and exclusive soap smell, is becoming more woody again – this time thanks to cedar. It’s substantive but since it’s a late stage of development it is nicely muted. Because of its rugged character it brings more masculine connotations. Amber note adds brightness of its shiny facets. It’s a nice oriental touch to the composition. Fugit Amor also has musk among base notes. Combined with cedarwood it’s a tad dirty in a bodily way but it’s more sexy and seductive because of that. You wouldn’t be bothered by this sensation, I can promise you that.

Fugit Amor was composed for Jul et Mad by perfumer Stephanie Bakouche in her atelier. She mastered all of the ingredients she used, which resulted in a full-bodied composition that changes its shape several times during the day, so that it smells slightly different every time you smell it. Fugit Amor is very complex and quite unusual masculine carnation fragrance. My personal soapy twist to it was most thrilling part of it. Presented in extrait de parfum concentration, the fragrance is available in 50 ml flacon (in more pricy luxury coffret version or in a cheaper box packaging). Its longevity is impeccable – applied in the morning it still smells in the evening, leaving a gentle trail behind the wearer. It’s a beautiful and elegant composition. Modern and classy at the same time.

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9 thoughts on “When love is a curse, Jul et Mad Fugit Amor

  1. shelly says:

    Great job describing. I feel like I have tried it just reading about it.

  2. Jillie says:

    Oh, my, this is lovely and certainly not “fleeting”! In fact, I think I am in love with it (thanks to you, dear Lucas). I don’t find it at all masculine and agree with you about its soapiness – that’s probably why I adore it as I have always liked clean-smelling fragrances. I keep sniffing my wrist and it is acting like aromatherapy, lifting my spirits and making me feel calm. In fact the essential oil of vetiver is used in aromatherapy to soothe irritability, so maybe that’s it working its magic on me.

    Then there’s the carnation, but its spiceyness is very gentle on me and provides warmth to the composition.

    As far as I am concerned it’s pretty near perfect. Another gem from Jul et Mad.

    Amo, amas, amat.

    • lucasai says:

      Hi Jillie. Fugit Amor is absolutely not fleeting. Glad you’re enjoying the sample! Funny to hear you also get the soapiness because when I was at Esxence, Madalina and Stephanie told me that I was the first person at the fair who had such a soapy effect when having Fugit Amor on skin.
      Interesting remark on vetiver essential oil. I think I’ve never smelled a pure one yet.

      Carnation is subdued here but you recognize its presence 🙂

      I think I might get a bottle of Fugit Amor.

      • Jillie says:

        I have a theory that vetiver can indeed smell soapy. It’s very versatile and appears as so many different notes: earthy, woody, citrussy, patchouli-like and ….. soapy! Many years ago Crabtree & Evelyn Vetiver was my go-to fragrance in the summer as it was so clean smelling. Discontinued, of course. There are other vetivers that don’t appeal to me, Guerlain’s for instance, as that bothers me – can’t explain why.

        You should see/smell vetiver essential oil – it’s like tar as it is dark, resinous and sticky and almost impossible to get out of the bottle.

        • lucasai says:

          I usually thought that vetiver is either earthy or kind of woody, grassy, a little bit like hay.
          Shame this is another fragrance you loved but is no longer available.

          This oil seems like a difficult one to work with.

  3. hajusuuri says:

    Woot! Another lemming! I hope this comes in a love dose! Super review, my sweet!

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