In this modern, fast-developing world we live in, one cannot just overlook the power of science. In my opinion one of the most important scientific field is chemistry. It’s one of those study groups that are very versatile. Not only it serves for a good purpose per se, but you can pair it with physics, medicine, geography for an ultimate research tool that has helped to discover many things that were unknown. Of course chemistry also helps in flavor and fragrance development with synthesis of new molecules that can be used in perfumery. Nomenclature is a concept brand that highlights iconic and modern aromachemicals. Their latest release was very much to my liking.
Story of Shi_sõ is a story of waking up at dawn and going with a watering can to the garden, where you have this tiny greenhouse of your own. At first it gives a cool, citrus impression but it fades away within 2-3 minutes to make place for a surrounding verdancy. This fragrance literally explodes with green energy but it’s not just a simple green aroma; It’s a complex accord built with many shades of green. First there is shiso leaf. It’s very crisp and aromatic, like a cousin of violet leaf. But this shiso is cold and it almost has a metallic facet. This aroma feels like a mysterious invitation.
Next there is ivy leaf. It’s very crunchy and has this specific plant sap as a company. Green color of ivy is more intensive than the one of shiso and it also has a milky facet coming from plant juice. When rhubarb joins the composition, Shi_sõ becomes even greener but now it also gains this nicely fruity vibe that is so mouth-watering that it’s hard not to salivate when I smell it. Rhubarb note also has a delicious tartness & its pink-colored stems possess a gently sour vibe. This adds even more flavor to the blend! At some point a delicate scent of cardamom arises from the perfume structures.
It effuses fresh spiciness with a little bit of warmth but even such small rising of temperature marks a noticeable contrast compared to cooler green notes. After a while things get a little bit more citrusy with lemon verbena. Its herbaceous aroma has a light yellow hue that peaks through the greenery of this scent. Spearmint and basil pack an extra punch of freshness and verdancy while black currant that is slowly appearing on top of my skin is responsible for introducing a combined aroma of both tart and sweet fruitiness. Then there is also a bit of anise – it has a soapy, kind of almond-like vibe.
Nomenclature Shi_sõ is like a gorgeous bouquet of freshly picked herbs. Its overflowing with green, herbaceous aromas that can easily bring a good mood to anyone who would wear it. A star ingredient of this new fragrance is a molecule of Glycolierral®. This product of Givaudan captures the cool scent of a crushed ivy leaf and also gives a milky, sap-laden effect. Used in abundance in this new fragrance it recreates a broad palette of green aromas. Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour enjoyed working on a green-metallic accord, especially that he recently visited Japan.
Shi_sõ is great, its like the alteration of a classic cologne theme. Imagine traditional eau de cologne with all citrus elements taken out and replaced by a whole spectrum of green aromas, like shiso, mint, basil, verbena & rhubarb. That’s how Shi_sõ smells to me. It’s incredibly refreshing and invigorating. I would eagerly wear this new eau de parfum from Nomenclature. The only problem is that I wouldn’t need a whole 100 ml Erlenmeyer flask of it for myself. If it came in a handy test tube size of 20 ml, I would be all onboard. You should give it a try if you’d like to add something different to your summer scent wardrobe. Shi_sõ has average projection and good longevity.