Most of you have been following my blog for a while now so I think that it wouldn’t be a shock for you if I tell that Kilian is definitely not “my” brand (for definition see here) however curious perfumista as I am, I don’t feel a repulsive force towards any fragrance until I try it. So when last week I received a sample set of new arrivals from Quality Missala I was also eager to try a novelty from Kilian. I’m always full of doubts about any new creation from a brand that generally didn’t impress me much in the past but the curiosity is always bigger than fear. So here I am, again…
Black Phantom begins with a pleasant scent of warm coffee. It’s quite pleasant to my nose, considering the fact that I truly dislike the smell of coffee as I find it too acrid. But in this fragrance the coffee notes has a sweet edge from the very beginning. It has undertones of delicious dark chocolate that gives it more depth and a bit of powdery vibe that reminds me of cocoa. Then things become even more sweet and warm thanks to a prominent rum accord. It combines the alcoholic vibe with the syrupy smell of sugar cane. The booziness also brings a gentle spicy feeling.
Later on the fragrance is not so dark anymore, actually it becomes kind of milky. There’s a very obvious smell of caramel in Kilian Black Phantom. It’s smooth, velvety, a little bit sticky but to my nose it smells like an intensively flavored whipped cream on top of this cup of coffee. Bright sandalwood enhances the aspect of creaminess and at the same time it adds more substantivity. Heliotrope has a vanillic vibe on my skin. It’s a little bit powdery and this feeling is supported by almond. It has tender powderness that veers towards a milky, condensed taste.
On my skin Black Phantom didn’t last longer than 3 hours and was rather transparent and discreet from the very beginning. I also don’t understand why it’s undertitle is Memento Mori as this perfume has nothing to do with remembering about death. It smells like going to a fancy café with a friend to grab a double caramel latte. It also lacks a bit of originality, it would not stand out among other similar compositions. Also I really dislike the presentation with a skull on a lacquered case, but as I’ve seen comments here and there, I might be the only one who doesn’t like it. This eau de parfum was composed by perfumer Sidonie Lancesseur and is available in 50 ml bottle.