Citrus is probably the most obvious and most common perfume choice for the summer. No surprise, since in the hot weather you want something not overwhelming and fresh rather than sticky and heavy. Even among citrus notes there are some that are more famed than others, like lemon from Amalfi or bergamot from Calabria. Recently I stumbled upon an interesting rendition of the latter one done by Nishane. I liked it a lot, therefore decided to share my impressions with you.
Opening of this fragrance named Ambra Calabria has a certain tang to it. the citric & juicy aroma of bergamot is obvious and straightforward. It’s like a splash when a slice of lemon takes a dive into a glass of water. Interestingly bergamot is not really cold here almost like hidden in the shade. Actual shade appears after a few minutes. There’s a green, slightly sappy and resinous smell of galbanum as well as the green, rustling leafage. Described by the brand as green leaves, this note effuses a blend of sunny warmth and verdant aromas that bring to mind the smell of mediterranean grove.
Heart of the composition features a little bit of jasmine. It’s presented in a very light way – it doesn’t carry much weight. Its airy floral tones quite remind me of California Reverie, a perfume from Van Cleef & Arpels. this one and Ambra Calabria share some similarities when it comes to jasmine. Furthermore there is a bunch of coriander that was used in this fragrance. Its spiciness feels reserved and cooler than it usually does, almost as if it was in some sort of chillout mood. But it introduces that characteristic dryness, like a paper. It blends with jasmine nicely. It smells of relax.
The most interesting twist in Nishane Ambra Calabria hides within its drydown. Probably nobody would expect an amber note to be featured in this sort of perfume. Yet its there, soft like a giant pouf at the terrace. It also surrounds the wearer with a gentle warmth – it’s the kind of warmth that naturally emanates from your skin or a delicate sea breeze just before the sunset. Vanilla and musk melt with skin making it smell very appetizing, not to mention that the aspect of this concoction is very sensual. It’s like a seductive invitation to get closer to the person & to cuddle with them.
Ambra Calabria is pretty unusual take on summery citrus, don’t you think? It’s also hard to classify. I looked up at Fragrantica where it is put into aromatic spicy group, while on Parfumo they group it with other fresh-citrusy compositions. No matter how you classify it, this Nishane smells good. As for an extrait it has surprisingly low sillage – you’ll have to smell your wrist close to the nose to recognize it, but it will stay on skin for most of the day. The perfume was developed by perfumer Jorge Lee and it was released in 2014. On the market you can find it in 50 ml bottles.