Triple trip with Maison Berdoues

In the past every now and then I could hear people talking about Maison Berdoues and their perfumes. However it hasn’t been until few months ago that I actually got a chance to try what this brand has to offer. I was surprised to learn that Berdoues history began in 1902 and that it was quite flourishing. But at Esxence they didn’t present any of their classic fragrances. Instead they flew with the current of time, presenting a modern like of Collection Grands Crus. The packaging is eye-catching & juices have a lot of fun in them. It’s actually hard to decide which one I like the most. Therefore I decided to write about 3 of them that I think are very suitable for summer season.


Scorza di Sicilia

Its Italian name means Sicilian Bark. Composition of this fragrance opens with a vibrant cocktail of citrus. Ultra fresh and energetic, it feels like a deep dive into a swimming pool. The citrus accord is exhilaratingly chilly so you’ll definitely experience a cool-down effect once you spray it on skin. Within few minutes the juiciness boosts up and becomes aromatic. To me Scorza do Sicilia smells like a just picked, sun-drenched fruit. I can clearly smell zesty rind as well as tart and sweet pulp. On their website they mention citron but to me it’s more complex, like a combination of lemon, lime, orange & bergamot. After a while the composition warms up. There is a cedarwood accord that brings substance and weight to otherwise fleeting citrus. Its woody aroma is gentle, blending harmoniously with citrus notes. There’s a certain warmth to this woody aspect as well as a tiny hint of soft spiciness. Vetiver has a grassy, kind of lemony vibe in this scent. It’s also a sunny but contrasts with juicy citrus as itself it has some dryness to it. It’s an aromatic blend that is truly mouth-watering. Great and optimistic blend for vacation in Italy. Perfumer – Sebastien Martin.


Assam of India

Immediately after applying this one on skin I experienced a green wave going through my nose. There’s something wild about it but then it leaves the impression of green grass on a summer morning, when it’s still covered with dew drops. There’s something certainly watery about the opening. Lightweight substantivity arises few minutes later and you realise that what you smell on the skin is a tea note. Since it’s Assam of India, the tea is nothing else but assam, a black tea. It smells aromatic and somehow comforting, with this specific vibe that tannins are able to introduce. Then we have a true lemon – juicy and a bit sour it blends so well with assam that it smells like a cup of your favorite beverage (hello tea lovers!). Assam note also gives me this blurry impression of something woody but it’s very faint. Freshness of tea with that extra drop of lemon juice is definitely a key aspect to Assam of India. At some point sandalwood joins the composition and it really adds few extra kilograms to this perfume. Now it sits on the skin with more confidence and substance, it no longer feels like it could be gone by next time you’ll want to smell your wrist. There’s even something balmy about it now. Truly amazing perfume for summer. Perfumer – Jennifer Riley.


Vanira Moorea

Out of the bunch featured in this post I find Vanira Moorea to be the most interesting and unusual perfume. At first whiff all I get is a very naturally smelling orange. I can literally smell a whole, round fruit. There’s some zing coming from the zest, tart & aromatic albedo and the sweet scent of its juicy flesh. It’s a very playful scent that puts a smile on my face any time I smell it on my wrist. Some time later a gorgeous vanilla joins the composition. There are many words to describe it. It’s lush, luscious, creamy, sweet, balsamic – all this at the same time. Its smell reminds me of vanilla ice cream but the best way to sum it up perfectly is to say that Vanira Moorea is a tropical vanilla. There’s something really exotic and fruity about it, even though no exotic fruit is mentioned anywhere in its press release. To me this perfume also smells like an expensive suntan lotion with a glittery shimmer. It’s a yummy smell of having fun in the sun. Later on this vanilla accord develops a powdery facet. This facet is very pretty and has some moisture to it, which instantly brings to my mind the association with a coconut pulp. It even smells slightly similar. Addition of petitgrain adds a warm freshness. It’s vital part of Vanilla Moorea, otherwise there would be a high chance the perfume would feel to heavy and cloying to wear during hot days. Nothing like that happens and I wore it on a day when it was 30°C. I can’t get enough of this one. Perfumer – Alexandra Monet.


Not only these three from Berdoues Collection Grands Crus are playful scents because the other ones are just as playful. There’s a lot of fun to these perfumes & I’m sure they will bring you lots of pleasure when you get a possibility to test them. All of them are concentrated at eau de parfum level – this provides great lasting power and decent sillage. Bottles of this collection are absolutely an example of perfume bottle porn. Each 100 ml flacon is decorated with a special motif assigned to each composition. They are also very good value for money, as a big bottle costs only 79 €. I am seriously tempted to buy that pretty bottle of Vanira Moorea and douse myself in it regularly.

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27 thoughts on “Triple trip with Maison Berdoues

  1. Jillie says:

    What a charming trio – you have described them so well that I feel I can almost smell them and I am keen to sniff them in real life. I am sure that they are just my sort of thing. It’s also great to see that not all houses are charging fortunes for perfumes these days!

    I love the elephants …..

  2. chocolatemarzipan8 says:

    Thank you for this great review! I was so hoping that you would review the Berdoues line (I know you did a mini review on Arz el Rab a while back but I really appreciate a full post!).

    You already know that I LOVE this line for the bottles, the juice (amazingly approachable and versatile year round) AND the price. We have full bottles of Assam, Vanira, Arz and Oud al Sahrraa floating around our house for everyone to share. If I were not on a no buy Scorza would be my next full bottle as I do remember loving it last summer when I sampled it before passing on my sample to my best friend.

    I am also curious about the other two new ones…the Russian inspired one and the African inspired one. I am sure that they are equally as good as what I have thus far sampled from the Grand Cru collection. Have you tried any of the others from their Oud line or the cologne line?

    Buy the bottle, Lucas, for you and your mom! You won’t be disappointed!

    • lucasai says:

      My pleasure Marzipan,
      I think I went to explore this line after your comments at NST that you wore and liked so many of them.

      I only saw the bottles with my eyes once, back at Esxence and I remember I liked their size and decorative aspect of the patterns.

      I have a sample of Russkaya Kozha, the Russian inspired one. Unfortunately Maasai Mara was too new at Esxence and samples were not ready. I also quite liked their oud line, especially oud and rose one

      • chocolatemarzipan8 says:

        Yes, i was a bit fanatical last summer as I wore Assam of India daily for about seven weeks in a row! Then a younger family member confiscated it from me and now I just sneak in a few spritzes here and there! The other three bottles I gifted to three different younger family members so I have easy access to them as well .

        I should look into exploring the Oud line…I think more stores that are beginning to carry them (including Sephora) so that should be easy enough to do.

  3. Shelly says:

    They sound delightful. I will have to see where they might be here. On another note, I get to go to Fumerie for the first time today. I could be dangerous, I will leave my walllet in the car I think.

  4. Holly says:

    Great to see your reviews of these! I just checked my sample set which I received as a gift, and I have and will explore Vanira Moorea first! So far I’ve only sniffed Assam which I enjoyed, and of course their bottles are adorable.

  5. geordie04 says:

    New here from NST — just wanted to say a very happy birthday 🎊
    And thank you for these pages: it’s lovely to discover a new (to me) and intelligent perfume blog. May there be many more anniversaries!

  6. hajusuuri says:

    Woo hoo Lucas…wonderful reviews. I have Assam of India and have dabber samples of the line somewhere floating around in the sample sea. I will say that other than Assam of India, smeilling them in person on paper did not make me buy them on the spot. I need to spend time with them. I better get busy because Twisted Lily is having 20% off and free shipping until July 6th!

    • lucasai says:

      Thanks sweetie. So you also fell in love for a perfume with elephant-decorated bottle?
      Hope it won’t take much searching to find the other ones

  7. Undina says:

    For the last two days I’ve been searching for the sample of Assam of India, which not only I know I have but tried and liked – and cannot find it! Bummer!

    Liked your review and will try to get to other perfumes from this line.

    With their cute bottles they should make 15 ml (or maximum 30 ml) bottles and sell them in mixed collections!

    Just in case you missed it on NST, Happy Anniversary!!! Let many great perfumes surround you for the next year to inspire your reviews and just bring joy to what you do with this blog.

    • lucasai says:

      Hope you can still find it!

      I agree that 30 ml (20ml ?) with these patterns would be super cute and ideally you could build your own coffret of selecting 3 you want to have.

      Thank you for the wishes!

  8. […] a couple of samples graciously sent to me by hajusuuri and Lucas’s (The Chemist in the Bottle) review. I haven’t seen this brand in any of the stores around or come across it during my recent […]

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