Just few weeks ago Amouage announced a launch of their annual fragrance duo, which is named Figment this year. Man version opens with a blast of aromatic geranium – it’s crunchy, with lots of crispiness and intensive green aroma. But very shortly it becomes harsh-cold and metallic because of pink pepper. After a while an animalic accord clearly starts to dominate on my skin leaving vetiver or sandalwood far behind in this race for wearers attention. And I’m not happy about what I smell. Especially that the animalic vibe then transforms into an earthy accord. Gee… this is the point when I was about to wash it off my skin. It smells like a dirty soil, very moist, with earthworms digging through it. Other association I got is that it smells like an old water in a vase after you threw a withered flower bouquet away. Labdanum in the base adds uneasy smokiness to it while gaiac wood brings warm substantivity of the wood and resins. But it smells eerie to me. One attractive thing about Amouage Figment Man is the box – in a deep blue color and with a gorgeous flower pattern on it. That’s all… I am more than sure that this perfume will find its audience that won’t think it’s weird.
Just two Quick Sniffs ago I made a quick mention about Etro ManRose. Since that time Etro has launched yet another new perfume. Shantung opens with a moderately sweet scent of tangerine. It has a delicate juiciness and a gentle hint of zestiness. Freshness of this accord is then twisted a spring-like scent of black currant. The latter one provides a lovely, mouth-watering tarness to the composition. Lychee provides a more sweet contrast to it and it makes the perfume feel more exotic and summery. Heart of the composition is very fresh. A bouquet of pastel pink-tinged roses is dewy, watery in its character. It’s a sheer veil that brings the idea of a fragrant lace. Peonies make this floral part a bit stronger but it’s still relatively light-weight and gently colored. Notes also mention incense but I didn’t smell it. After some time a gentle woodiness emerges from Shantung – cedar and cashmere wood are not strong here. They give some solidity to the base but without overly-marked presence. There’s also a fluffy cloud of white clean musk. Etro Shantung is not bad, but it’s very light (again!) and could have more character that would make it stand out.
Figment Woman on the other hand seems like a more well-thought composition. This perfume opens with a potent gardenia note. It has the pungency and intensity of a white flower that is elevated to some really high levels. It feels very indolic, almost meaty in its richness. Saffron and sichuan pepper add a lot of warmth and vibrancy to it. Later on tuberose and jasmine sambac join the composition making Amouage Figment Woman a true ode to white flowers. It’s the embodiment of ultra femininity. Orange blossom add its own values to this floral bouquet, making it feel a little bit more citrusy. Lisylang (aroma molecule with ylang profile) wraps this flower bunch together with a creamy, almost coconuty smell. The drydown brings forward the airy smokiness of incense combined with earthy patchouli accord. There’s also a nice orris note that carries an earthy, rooty smell with just a tiny hint of something buttery. Finally papyrus makes it feel more dry. I like feminine Figment more but it’s not something I would wear. However if you’re a fan of big florals, do give it a try.