Monday Quick Sniffs, part 40

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Just few weeks ago Amouage announced a launch of their annual fragrance duo, which is named Figment this year. Man version opens with a blast of aromatic geranium – it’s crunchy, with lots of crispiness and intensive green aroma. But very shortly it becomes harsh-cold and metallic because of pink pepper. After a while an animalic accord clearly starts to dominate on my skin leaving vetiver or sandalwood far behind in this race for wearers attention. And I’m not happy about what I smell. Especially that the animalic vibe then transforms into an earthy accord. Gee… this is the point when I was about to wash it off my skin. It smells like a dirty soil, very moist, with earthworms digging through it. Other association I got is that it smells like an old water in a vase after you threw a withered flower bouquet away. Labdanum in the base adds uneasy smokiness to it while gaiac wood brings warm substantivity of the wood and resins. But it smells eerie to me. One attractive thing about Amouage Figment Man is the box – in a deep blue color and with a gorgeous flower pattern on it. That’s all… I am more than sure that this perfume will find its audience that won’t think it’s weird.

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Just two Quick Sniffs ago I made a quick mention about Etro ManRose. Since that time Etro has launched yet another new perfume. Shantung opens with a moderately sweet scent of tangerine. It has a delicate juiciness and a gentle hint of zestiness. Freshness of this accord is then twisted a spring-like scent of black currant. The latter one provides a lovely, mouth-watering tarness to the composition. Lychee provides a more sweet contrast to it and it makes the perfume feel more exotic and summery. Heart of the composition is very fresh. A bouquet of pastel pink-tinged roses is dewy, watery in its character. It’s a sheer veil that brings the idea of a fragrant lace. Peonies make this floral part a bit stronger but it’s still relatively light-weight and gently colored. Notes also mention incense but I didn’t smell it. After some time a gentle woodiness emerges from Shantung – cedar and cashmere wood are not strong here. They give some solidity to the base but without overly-marked presence. There’s also a fluffy cloud of white clean musk. Etro Shantung is not bad, but it’s very light (again!) and could have more character that would make it stand out.

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Figment Woman on the other hand seems like a more well-thought composition. This perfume opens with a potent gardenia note. It has the pungency and intensity of a white flower that is elevated to some really high levels. It feels very indolic, almost meaty in its richness. Saffron and sichuan pepper add a lot of warmth and vibrancy to it. Later on tuberose and jasmine sambac join the composition making Amouage Figment Woman a true ode to white flowers. It’s the embodiment of ultra femininity. Orange blossom add its own values to this floral bouquet, making it feel a little bit more citrusy. Lisylang (aroma molecule with ylang profile) wraps this flower bunch together with a creamy, almost coconuty smell. The drydown brings forward the airy smokiness of incense combined with earthy patchouli accord. There’s also a nice orris note that carries an earthy, rooty smell with just a tiny hint of something buttery. Finally papyrus makes it feel more dry. I like feminine Figment more but it’s not something I would wear. However if you’re a fan of big florals, do give it a try.

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14 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 40

  1. Jillie says:

    You have made me giggle – this must be the first perfume review ever that mentions worms wriggling in the soil! The theme today is the colour blue … but only in packaging, the smells aren’t blue at all.

    I think that of the three Shantung is most appealing, but I would want more oomph. Big White Florals are love/hate for me, so it’s hard to say whether I would care for Figment Woman – although I must say that BWFs certainly bloom in the heat and I have worn vintage Jardins de Bagatelle during our hot weather with great success, whereas in cooler days I don’t even want to smell it!

    • lucasai says:

      Ha, I know. But it really does smell like a flower pot soil.

      Shantung is ok but it’s really watered down. If it was stronger then it could have turn really good. As it is, I can’t smell it on my skin after 1-2 hours. Not worth the money for such short lasting power.

      Oh I know Jillie, I’ve worn Rosso Epicureo from Jacques Fath on one hot day and it was awesome. Didn’t feel overpowering at all

  2. hajusuuri says:

    MQS! Nicely colored Amouage bottles, but based on your description, it sounds like I won’t be missing out were I to somehow skip sniffing this. The Etro sounds like it’s worth trying.

  3. Undina says:

    I will try at least Amouage woman version at some point, I think, though the bouquet of the flowers mentioned scares me a little even if not to count tuberose… The other two… I won’t refuse to sniff them should I come across them at a store but I’m not inspired enough to look for them (but I must say that your “earthworms digging through it” was rather a pleasant association/memory from my childhood – not that I’d like to smell of it 😉 ).

    • lucasai says:

      Please do, you have some Amouage you love so you never know how you’ll feel about Figment. I’m sure you’ll notice them on a shelf somewhere soon.
      Name when noticed for the first time would suggest a perfume with fig and mint… so misleading.

      • Undina says:

        I don’t think it’s a problem for native English-speaking customers since it’s a regular English word with a definite meaning, so I think that it is understood first as such without trying to find any combinatory meaning. There’s an identical word in Russian (just spelled with different letters – Фигмент), so it wasn’t confusing for me either. But I see that both Polish and Ukrainian have completely different words for that so I can see why for your eyes it seems misleading. I do it all the time with those words that I do not recognize as such by the first look at them.

  4. Holly says:

    Thanks for another round of MQS! These will be DWS for me – Don’t Wanna Sniff. 😉 The packaging is lovely though…

  5. Jiji says:

    The Amouage packaging is gorgeous!
    I love white florals (esp jasmine and tubeross), but Amouage price tags are scary.

    • lucasai says:

      I know what you mean. But if you liked it, you could get a decant

      • Jiji says:

        Ah yes, of course. But I don’t think there is a Dutch decant-shop that offers brands like this, and I am not that eager to buy from ebay and sites like that. I guess I should immerse myself more in the Dutch (or Belgian or German) perfume community for splits. But for now I am able to get by with samples, which is already expensive enough. And if I really love something I want a bottle anyways 😉 I just started my perfume addiction, my collection is still modest….but ask me again a year from now 🙂

        • lucasai says:

          Sounds like a plan. You might want to try Facebook Fragrance Friends – they organize many splits and you can find a splitting person who lives locally, so that a decant would not have to travel half a world 😉

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