Monday Quick Sniffs, part 41


Lili Bermuda recently introduced SunKiss, an Official Fragrance of Sunny Bermuda. This composition opens with an effervescent and super mouth-watering fruity aroma of loquat (which I had to google to learn it belongs to Rosaceae, has a sweet-tart flavor and grows in China, Japan but also in Bermuda). It gives an easy to wear, undemanding impression that instantly transports you to the beach. Loquat is followed by a zestiness of orange peel. It’s kind of fizzy, juicy and nicely contrasts with more sweet loquat. Orange blossom in the heart of the composition adds a lovely summery facet of a sun-kissed skin. When vanilla cream appears it instantly blends together with other notes. It transforms SunKiss into a fruity & milky scent that I associate with melting ice cream, suntan lotion or a marshmallow. It’s funny and feels like it was made to wear ar the beach. Sandalwood in the base gives the perfume more body without introducing much woodiness, while musky notes are very creamy and fluffy, intensifying the fruity ice cream vibe. This perfume embodies a carefree summertime with lots of things to enjoy.


It’s been quite a while since I wanted to try something from Maison Martin Margiela. This line sounded interesting to me but it’s not available in Poland. Just by coincidence last week a friend from Germany sent me a few samples of fragrances I was curious about and he included one named Jazz Club as an extra. Since I’m a fan of this kind of music I gave it a try without waiting. It immediately opens with a boozy scent of rum. It’s sweet & alcoholic, obviously smelling of sugar cane. Within few minutes a bit of spiciness is added with pink pepper but it’s not very strong. What is prominent is a coconut accord that appears shortly after. It’s creamy and tropical vibe is quite intensive, which is especially interesting because coconut is not listed as a note! Further into fragrance development there’s a gentle tobacco note. It’s smoky and balsamic, also warm and sort of sensual at the same time. When vanilla joins the composition it becomes sweeter while vetiver make it feel more dry & woody. Some styrax adds a small portion of balsamic qualities that play nicely on skin. Additional notes that escaped my attention were lemon, neroli and clary sage. The development is quite fast and dynamic, therefore Jazz Club becomes linear quite soon. But lasts for decent amount of time. Not a bad perfume at all but not a standout among others inspired by jazz or shady clubs.


According to my knowledhe Citizen X by Ex Nihilo is the most recent release from this rather quickly expanding niche line from France. First in Iconoclaste Collection, this composition opens with what supposedly should smell like mastic resin. But as soon as the droplets land on my skin, they don’t smell like this aromatic, resinous material at all! Instead I get an impression that lands really close to the smell of Coca Cola. Yes, you read that correct. It smells sweet and fizzy like a freshly opened bottle of this popular beverage. Only later it develops something slightly balsamic with a faint dose of spiciness (white pepper I think) There is some olibanum in this perfume that adds a smoky and woody effect. The problem is that coke is still a dominating impression any time I smell Citizen X. This perfume is also meant to feature iris. But as an iris lover and a person whose nose is sensitive to detecting this note, I would have to rate this new Ex Nihilo with 0 in terms of iris perception, because I don’t smell it at all. Few more notes of this fragrance are amberwood & musk. If any of you have tried Citizen X, I’d greatly appreciate your feedback on it. My impression is so weird that I feel like I might be the only one. I would be curious to learn if there is anybody else who smelled Coca Cola or if you could smell mentioned ingredients.

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12 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 41

  1. Thanks for mentioning Lili Bermuda’s SunKiss — I love several of their scents (Lily and Coral, especially). I visited The Bermuda Perfumery years ago and bought those, on my one visit to Bermuda, where loquats grew wild by the road near where we stayed, there for the picking and eating. I’ll have to try SunKiss! And go back to Bermuda …

    • lucasai says:

      My pleasure. I’m sure going to Bermuda and visiting that place must have been very nice. I’ve never been anywhere outside of Europe yet.

      • Bermuda is really lovely! We rented a modest cottage instead of staying at a resort or hotel, and we rode the buses everywhere, so we got a real sense of place and people. I hope you get to go! Of course, there is so much to see and do in Europe, I’m sure you haven’t exhausted its possibilities yet.

  2. Holly says:

    Yay for MQS! SunKiss sounds like something I might like, although sometimes any creamy notes in beachy scents feel too sweet, sticky and suffocating to me. I’ll pass on the other two, but I have experienced that cola note in other perfumes and it always reminds me of a cough syrup that was popular when I was a kid. Or rather, it was popular with the parents dosing it out, but not popular with those who had to take it. 🙂

    • lucasai says:

      It’s worth giving it a try.
      Did you try Citizen X too, or you’re talking only about other perfumes that had similar vibe?
      When I was young there was a coca cola flavored toothpaste while cough syrups were usually strawberry or cherry 😉

  3. hajusuuri says:

    I’m doing the happy dance for Monday!Quick!Sniffs! Not a bad trio! SunKiss sounds wonderful and since you did not mention chemical soup, I jave bigh hopes for it. Maison Martin Margiela is a ailable at Sephora but I don’t have any impressions of it at all and I am pretty sure I have samples lurking about from GWPs. As to Citizen X, I willl try to remember to smell it the next time I’m at Bergdorfs. I get a colla note from Alien but of the rootbeer variety.

    • lucasai says:

      I know you love MQS! Glad SunKiss sounds appealing to you. It’s a summery scent of fruity popsickle. Lucky of you that MMM is at Sephora in US. They are not in Poland at all. Citizen X is quite weird. A rootbeer you say. I remember few perfumes with gingerale vibe

  4. I have been curious about the Lili Bermuda brand for a while..thanks for the mini review!

    Jazz Club I have sniffed at Sephoras and enjoyed it….for me more of a fall/winter scent as my skin took hold of that tobacco note!

    Your cola note mention brought to mind a fragrance I used to wear which was sadly discontinued…Escada Collection…it came in a standard bottle but also LE bottles that were gorgeous…I still have two of them (sadly emptied).

  5. Undina says:

    The week just ran away from me (sometimes I wonder if it’s really worth it to work that much – even if you like what you’re doing), so I’m super-late for the QMS post (but better later than never – right?).
    I don’t think you’re missing much with those MMM’s perfumes. After a couple of more high end Untitled/Untitled l’Eau (or something like that), MMM decided to go into a more mass-market area, and I wasn’t impressed by any of those that I tried. Not bad – just not interesting enough.
    I’m not too familiar with the other two brands and will probably forget about these perfumes by the time I read your next post. But thank you for trying them so that I would not have to 🙂

    • lucasai says:

      That happens sometimes. You wake up and realize “oh, it’s Friday already”.
      There’s never too late to read a post and leave a comment.
      Thanks for feedback about MMM. I’d like to try few more before I give my final judgement

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