Monday Quick Sniffs, part 43


Robert Piguet launched L’Insomnuit in 2016 and I was aware of that. Since I’m not a huge fan of the brand I didn’t seek for a chance to try it until very recently when someone offered me a sample to swap for. L’Insomnuit opens with a fruity note of plum that smells kind of sugary & candied on my skin. However the sweetness is quickly counteracted with zesty bergamot. There’s also a fir balsam that adds an aromatic facet of an evergreen forest. Then comes an earthy, rooty element of iris, introduced to the perfume via orris absolute. After a while it deepens and becomes more buttery due to presence of iris concrete in the formula. L’Insomnuit has a hefty dose of oud that swallows any iris elements and replaces them with resinous, oily texture of oud. The drydown is half smooth-half harsh. Cedarwood is more rough and tad sweaty and cypriol’s waxy scent magnifies the feeling on my skin. On the contrary there is tonka bean that provides a creamy vibe with a faint background spiciness. Sandalwood adds to the smooth value of this Piguet composition. I would probably rate L’Insomnuit much higher if it wasn’t for the fact that iris part, which in my opinion is the most beautiful part of this perfume, disappears very quickly. Actually the whole thing doesn’t last longer than 2 hours on me & it smells only with a nose pressed to the skin. That’s a pity.


Gold Knight is the latest fragrance from the stable of Kilian, it was launched simultaneously with Woman in Gold. Together they form a collection ‘From Dusk till Dawn’. To me Gold Knight represents everything that I wouldn’t like to find in my perfume. There’s a whiff of bergamot that disappears in a snap and then right off the bat the perfume becomes a huge honey monster. I didn’t even have to wait until it fully develops to know that this is going to be my trauma. The golden liquid is sticky and it’s everywhere. It’s sickly sweetness spreads very fast. Aniseed makes it more spicy in a mild way but not enough to temper the amount of sugar this perfume has. As if there wasn’t enough sweetness in this fragrance, the perfumer decided to also use vanilla. Now this is becoming gooey, like a dense blob that could cause diabetes just be smelling it. At some point patchouli joins the composition. It smells rather synthetic and I can’t get rid of a feeling that Gold Knight reminds me of Mugler Angel. This perfume is a pure excess of sweetness, it’s over-the-top overdone. I don’t know how any man could wear it at his own will. I think that even women wouldn’t be too fond of it. But that’s just my opinion. Gold Knight is housed in a Klimt-style adorned clutch.


Photography-inspired line Olfactive Studio introduced Woody Mood, an oriental-woody fragrance by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. It opens with a bright and brisk bergamot accord combined with a lemon-like, mild spiciness of ginger. The fragrance quickly warms up, developing a sensual vibe. There’s a lovely, jammy saffron chord that kind of reminds me of rum, olfactively speaking. A note of sage adds a slightly herbal feeling in the background. Later on comes a woody part. Sequoia introduces a substantive woodiness. Then there is also jatamansi, introducing an earthy, rooty feeling to Woody Mood. Initially it smelled similar to licorice to my nose. Things get even more interesting after 30 minutes when new Olfactive Studio offering becomes darker and aromatic. Black tea note is very nicely pronounced, blending the warmth of a brew with fermented tea leaves. Incense adds a smoky effect, so essential in recreating the smell of black tea or lapsang suchong. Despite some darkness, there’s also light in this perfume. Resinous styrax carries a balsamic sweetness that blends with cocoa note. Leather note is also present but not dominant, it nicely co-exists with other ingredients. Finally there’s patchouli for dimension and longevity. I noticed that Woody Mood doesn’t have much sillage, but it lasts on skin for around 7 hours.

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10 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 43

  1. Jillie says:

    Thank you for your review of this trio. Woody Mood looks the most interesting!

  2. Holly says:

    I think I have yet to experience a plum note. I have sampled several things with a plum note, but I haven’t been able to grasp it yet. Thanks for your quick sniff review of Gold Knight which had me laughing hysterically! You took one for the team! Woody Mood could be the name for an ELdO perfume if reading it in a different context. Just sayin’. 😀

    • lucasai says:

      I see. You might want to try Histoires de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge. It also has a plum note. Gold Knight was a trauma, and yes- I was the test rabbit for all of you.
      I didn’t get the Woody Mood pun thought. Guess I’m not that clever in English 😆

  3. Undina says:

    I’m trying all Kilians I come across – just because I like the brand (though I actually love, own and wear just one FB). But thank you for the warning: I will, most likely, hate the home note (on the other hand, I do love Angel 😉 ).
    L’Insomnuit sounded more and more promising until I read “oud”… Well, if any of the stores around still carry the line, I’ll give it a try (I saw them a couple of years ago but don’t remember seeing that brand there recently).
    I need to explore Olfactive Studio’s perfumes (I even have some samples!) but the brand doesn’t appeal to me for no particular reason.

    • lucasai says:

      I didn’t remember you were a Kilian fan. Well, be careful with Gold Knight. It’s feminine sibiling is much nicer.
      I wasn’t really bothered with oud in L’Insomnuit but the longevity is way too poor to pay for it.
      I am quite undecided about Olfactive Studio. They are quite nice at first impression but then when I spend more time with them, they don’t seem so appealing anymore

  4. rickyrebarco says:

    The Woody Mood sounds nice, but I’ll pass on the other two. Massive honey notes are problematic for me. I’d rather just smell the real thing, honey on toast, please. I’m not a fan of Piguet either and I cannot deal with oud unless it is in the tiniest amount. I like a number of Kilians but this one will get a pass.

    • lucasai says:

      Do give Moody Wood a try then. Maybe you’ll like it. I like L’Insomnuit but not enough to spring for bottle or even decant. I don’t want to touch Kilian perfume ever again

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