I reviewed many different perfume in the past. Some were inspired by various places or landscapes. Others workes as a time capsule – they were meant to evoke a specific moment from the past. There are also perfume inspired by people, their good or bad fame. There is also a category of perfume that take inspiration from ingredients and nothing else. They are ode to rose, vetiver or pepper. And finally there are fragrances simply come from vivid imagination. They smell of flowers, places that only exist in the head of inspired one. But that doesn’t mean they can’t exist for real. Such is the case of a newest Le Galion perfume, a tribute to an imaginary flower.
My first experience with L’Âme Perdue brings forward a delicious tang of a citrus blend. I can’t smell much juiciness but there’s a lovely aromatic peel going on here. Lemon peel is more zesty & sour while mandarin peel is milder and tad more sweet. They are followed by some spicy elements that start to appear few minutes later. Cardamom adds almost nutty facet while at the same time cardamom gives the perfume some crispness. Couple more minutes pass before L’Âme Perdue will develop further into a white pepper note which I find particularly interesting.
White pepper is in my opinion a unique one among other species of pepper because in a perfume it smells much less pungent, its spiciness is very toned down and has no metallic effect. It also has many floral tones that make it rounder. Its floral aspect in L’Âme Perdue transitions to datura that puts a creamy veil on top. Going further the perfume releases an elegant cloud of jasmine. There are 2 kinds actually – Egyptian and sambac one. They are not overly jasmin-ey – they possess a white flower trademark but no indolic elements. There’s more glamour and modesty to it.
Afterwards I could smell broom that introduces an old-fashioned dustiness to the complex structure of Le Galion L’Âme Perdue. There’s something slightly woody about it. To me it brings a picture of flowers mixed with some twigs. I didn’t smell rose that the brand listed on their website. Immediately after the jasmine part the perfume began to saturate on my skin, it was becoming more sultry through ylang-ylang. Its scent brough facets of something creamy, buttery, tropical. It spreads the aura of seduction and temptation. What I also notice is that a temperature of this perfume is rising.
L’Âme Perdue heats up because of the spicy notes hiding in its heart. Clove add this warm, slightly sugary spiciness while cinnamon makes it more vibrant, shimmering. There’s also an accord of lily that’s responsible for creating a more powdery vibe in this stage. At some point a candied fruitiness of plum appears and it instantly softens the scent. It’s also slightly smoked. Base of this perfume is going to hug you & embrace you like the softest plush blanket. Tenderness of amber make L’Âme Perdue very luminous and bright. Its radiant nature is a kaleidoscope of multiple rays of light.
Benzoin from Sumatra introduces an element of fluidity to the newest Le Galion release. It’s resinous and balmy aroma enriches the perfume and gives it more intensity. It has a synergy with peru balsam. Later on honey appears as a layer of liquid gold. It blends sweetness with carnal desire in perfect proportions that are additionally accentuated with earthy patchouli. In the very end a sensual floral woodiness of rosewood provides a background to vanilla notes from Madagascar and Mexico. Oakmoss is the last ingredient that gives a dusty yet sophisticated finish to the scent.
L’Âme Perdue from Le Galion has an undeniable retro vibe. It feels stylish in an old-fashioned way and that fact puts it in the same category as Puredistance Warszawa I reviewed a while back. In case of L’Âme Perdue its complexity and olfactory profile kind of make me think of this perfume as something fitting for a ballroom gown with multiple layers of material. It feels very feminine but instead of overflowing with it, it’s more subtle femininity. Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux is a creator of this perfume and he did very well with this beauty. L’Âme Perdue has great longevity and rather low sillage. It’s eau de parfum concentrated and is available only in 100 ml bottles for now.