Monday Quick Sniffs are so rooted in my writing habits that I couldn’t do without them in 2018. Here I go with part 45, which also happens to be a first installment of the series this year. Enjoy!
Maison Berdoues expanded their Collection Grands Crus with two fragrances. Couple of months after Maasai Mara was introduced I learned about Hoja de Cuba coming up next. I quite like this perfume series and Maasai Mara is a great fragrance in my opinion but I can’t say the same about Hoja de Cuba. It opens with a vetiver that provides a mixture of grassy, earthy, rooty and dried tones. Afterwards the perfume gains a spicy edge thanks to pimento. On my skin it was rather nice and toned down. It was far from overpowering. Disappointment came a bit later when tobacco started to become noticeable. It smells nothing like a sensual, smoky pipe tobacco that I prefer. In Hoja de Cuba it’s not smoky at all, it smells surprisingly floral & I get shivers of disapproval when a lot of sweetness comes up. The sugary coat covered the entire perfume bringing my teeth to the point they wanted to scream for help. There’s too much vanilla (or honey, because later it develops a honey scent). Well… I tried it, gave it a grin and am ready to move on.
Almost 2 months ago I was contacted by a representative of Sana Jardin, a recently opened perfume house that introduces themselves as “the world’s first socially conscious and ethical fragrance house” wanting to economically empower women (female flower harvesters). I received couple of samples and from the ones that were sent to me I liked Tiger by Her Side the most. This fragrance is overally delicate, opening with a gentle golden shimmer of amber. It floats just above the skin surface and there’s that lovely fluffiness to it that instantly gives me the impression of something soft, furry. Perhaps a friendly tiger who likes to cuddle. Or at least a blanket with tiger print. After some time there’s a glimpse of rose – its scent is slightly dusty. Patchouli could provide this dustiness but it also adds some earthly values to the scent and make the perfume more deep. Frankincense makes Tiger by Her Side smokier, more mysterious & there’s also something leathery to it on my skin. My only issue with this scent is its minimal sillage and that it becomes a bit flat after 2-3 hours. But I still recommend trying it.
Lò from Acqua di Sardegna is a funny and weird fragrance at the same time. It starts with a delicious cinnamon note that combines spicy and sweet facets in perfect proportions. Couple of minutes later a sensual red-tinged saffron joins the composition making the perfume intensively warm and almost carnal. However things change when grapefruit appears giving the entire Lò a new, soapy shape. It starts to smell clean, soapy with spicy elements still being noticeable. Green notes push the perfume deeper into the soapy territory. Heart of the composition is more fresh and crisp – combining the juiciness of apple with aromatic, floral-green aspect of geranium. Base notes manage to push the soapiness away, revealing a generous dose of fuzzy suede immersed by the oily scent of smokiness. Patchouli makes it more dirty and rotting and so does musk note. As you can see there are many shifts and turns in this scent but I’m not sure if I like how it develops. To me it’s kind of chaotic, not to mention that transitions are quite drastic, “dramatic” if you can use such expression. But it exists on the market and probably has some fans. Bottle however is very pretty, right?