I don’t know much about Thailand except for the fact that I know where to look for it on a map and that it’s a pretty faraway and a very exotic country to me. However thanks to perfumer Pissara Umavijani, founder of Dusita, I feel a few steps closer to it as she often makes references to her homeland in her fragrances. Not to mention that her father Montri was a foremost poet of Thailand. In her newest creation – named Fleur de Lalita, she took a small detour to India by using a name of goddess Lalita. That name in Thai means ‘a charming lady with imagination’
Innocent girl is what comes to my mind as a first impression upon putting Fleur de Lalita on my skin. The composition begins with a faint sensation of magnolia flower that crystallizes after a few minutes. The scent itself is a combination of dewy-watery elements with a silky floral nuance that remains rather light. It feels sleek & smooth, like an actual light pink silk scarf on a woman. It’s soft and fluid, moving with her as she walks. The picture drawn by this fragrance is very spring-like. Moreover it feels very realistic. It reminds me of Milan, a city full of magnolias in bloom at springtime.
Being a bit shy at the beginning, a Fleur de Lalita girl gains more confidence over time and comes out of her shell. Simultaneously the perfume becomes stronger, with more presence and character. If you could imagine magnolia petals going from sheer pink to bright red you’ll know what I mean saying that the initial accord transitions into a rose. Very pretty & feminine it takes a leading role in the fragrance. What is especially thrilling is the amount of facets it has! It’s a kaleidoscopic rose. At times it’s simply floral but there are also moments when it turns more green, more fruity or darker.
It’s green aspect can be associated with a flower stem, a little bit of leaves and a bit of sap. Fruitiness of Fleur de Lalita on the other hand reminds me of the smell of unripe apricots. That scent is almost like osmanthus. Further into fragrance development there are 2 species of jasmine – grandiflorum and sambac. Don’t be alarmed though, Pissara tamed them, rose is still in a central place (at least in my case). On my skin jasmine creates a whitened ‘wall’ of a background covered with its petals. It smells lovely, slightly powdery actually. Plus it has a calming effect on me.
When I came to think of it later I realized that jasmine smelled that way on me thanks to vanilla accord. Since Pissara used an absolute it has a nice weight and just a tiny bit of sweetness. A perfect combination of something floral, slightly sweet and powdery. The stage of jasmine puff and rose lasts of me for couple of hours. Afterwards Fleur de Lalita turns a bit resinous green with galbanum and ambrette seeds recreate the smell of amber but with a highlight on its vegetal aspect. Tonka wraps and rounds everything thanks to its creamy, gently spiced aroma. Yum!
When I was trying Dusita Fleur de Lalita for the first time a few months ago (there was a preview at Pitti) a certain bell rang in my head. I immediately commented to Pissara that it highly reminds me of La Douceur de Siam but more youthful. Today when I write this review I want to tell you that I uphold my opinion. My feeling didn’t change since September. Pissara made a great fragrance, it not only evolves in time but also your skin makes a huge impact on it. On my friends it smelled almost like a totally different fragrance. Longevity and sillage of new Dusita creation are above average. The perfume should be available for purchase in a few months & will come in 50 ml bottles.