My relationship with Hermes is full of up and downs. I really wanted to like their fragrances and after many attempts I found two that I truly enjoy wearing. Their exclusive line – Hermessence, is a different story. Until now I didn’t find a single one that would speak to me. They were too pale and watered down on my skin, but that’s the style Hermes has been known for years. But things are starting to look brighter for me with an introduction of a new collection from their new in-house perfumer, Christine Nagel. A new era for this house might also mean finding new love there.
Agar Ébène quickly accomodates on my skin, opening with a balsamic fir note. The depth it creates the very moment it hits your nostrills is unimaginable. It goes down to the very roots of a tree. Dark green needles, murky branches and a solid trunk – all this surrounds you with warm sensuality and attention to details. I feel transported to a coniferous forest in winter time but it feels incredibly warm and nostalgic there. Aromatic and green elements blend together, becoming less detailed & more blurry after a while. At the same time the temperature of the fragrance rises even more.
Something spicy is slowly developing in the background of Agar Ébène but it’s difficult to say what it is. It’s like a hint of black pepper but not really. Nutmeg? I’m not sure. There’s a gentle dryness hiding underneath and the perfume unfolds like a piece of origami you’re trying to undo. The longer it stays on the skin the more substance crystallizes around it. Of course it’s a Hermessence style of substantivity, light & sheer – to me Agar Ébène is black but transparent, if that makes any sense. When woody accord of agar wood is revealed it slightly overwhelms the rest, in a good way!
Agar wood in Hermès Agar Ébène is a source of darkness and mysterious vibe crawling around the wearer. The dryness that was just a small hint before, now becomes full-fledged & with a lot of accent put on it. There’s something austere about it. The wood is rough and rugged which suits me well and probably because of this feeling I consider Agar Ébène as slightly more masculine than unisex. According to an interview for Le Figaro no actual oud was used in creation of this Hermessence. Other woody notes and agar wood (uninfected oud wood) were used to mimic it.
This oud-like accord is really complex. A bit of fir is still adding some freshness to the composition but moreover there’s a nicely crafted woody concoction enveloped by warm and resinous veil that feels like a cashmere jumper. It’s definitely elegant and stylish. Jean-Claude Ellena, former in-house perfumer at Hermes once said that oud is not a note befitting the brand. Apparently Christine Nagel who took over from Ellena has a different point of view than her predecessor. As she explained that with Agar Ébène she wanted to make an oud perfume without falling into this trend. It works!
Nagel was inspired by her trips to Egypt, Dubai, Oman and Bahrain and wanted to reinvent oriental fragrance ingredients of Middle East in a Hermes way. For her first venture into Hermessence line she created a collection of 5 scents. To me Agar Ébène is a bewitching potion. It’s carnal and full of refinement at the same time. It offers a smart way to sneak some sex appeal into your perfume wardrobe. I think I’d like to add it to my collection, this could be my belated birthday gift to self. It’s an eau de toilette, has little sillage but good longevity. Available in 200, 100 or 15 ml (in coffret of four).
Chemist in the Bottle 
” the perfume unfolds like a piece of origami you’re trying to undo”. This a delight to read…
Thank you, nice of you to say that
I must agree, lucasai, it’s perfume poetry you’ve written there. It feels like a haiku.
I hope Agar Ebene will pass my way someday soon..
I read your long-ago review of Infusion d’Homme then looked around the perfume world until I found a sample. Delightful!
Cant wait to try these new ones, especially if they are stronger! Which two Hermes do you enjoy?
They are not necessarily stronger, they are less watery than those done by J-C Ellena. They’re inspired by orient afterall.
I do like Eau de Neroli Dore and Le Jardin de Monsieur Li
Ah I have yet to try the Neroli. But I am intrigued by the Agar and Myrrh ones. Ive been wanting a travel set for ages, two are set: Vetiver Tonka and Epice Marine. The other two Im enjoying thinking about 😀
I see. For me Agar Ebene is first Hermessence I really like. I plan to buy it in few weeks when I’m in Milan
I love the coffret of 4 small sprays it is a great way to try scents. I wish more houses did that.
I like that you can select fragrances for it too
This sounds really nice. I prefer fir to the seemingly more popular pine. Did you try the others in this collection? They all sound rather unique.
I have tried all 3 of the new ‘regular’ Hermessence, no access to those ‘special’ essences.
I thought Myrrhe Eglantine was ok but myrrh was giving me a burning plastic vibe anyway. I might review it if I feel like it. I didn’t like Cedre Sambac, it’s indolic on me.
Ah. I didn’t realize that Musc Pallida and Cardamusc weren’t going to be as readily available.
They probably are but we don’t have a single Hermes boutique in Poland. My samples were sent from someone in Germany who kindly swapped with me so that I could get them. And that person said that Musc Pallida and Cardamusc were not there yet.
That was nice, and it certainly turned out well! I’m glad you found a new fbw perfume. 🙂
Me too, I’m longing for that birthday self-gift 😉
These are oils. I will try them next week.
I’ve heard they’re oil based but nobody really knows what it means. at 325 euro for 20 ml I’m even afraid to try them
I‘ll push for some samples. 🍪👑
Fingers crossed. It would be greatly appreciated if you could spare a small bit for me.
I’m planning to stop by Hermes in Milan to buy that Agar Ebene. Made up my mind about it.
After reading your wonderfully descriptive review, I am super keen to try these. R
Thank you! Hope that you will like them when you get a chance to sample these
Hermes isn’t “my” brand – but not so much for their perfumes being bad on my skin (as it happens with some other brands) but rather that I don’t get much impressed by most of them. It doesn’t prevent me from liking and wearing a couple from the Hermessence line and a couple of colognes, but in general these are “not me.” The more curious I am now to try this one after reading your review. You’re producing quality lemmings 🙂
It isn’t “my brand” either and I almost gave up on trying any new of them but then accidentally I smelled Le Jardin de Monsieur Li during a fragrance training session I had at work. I really liked it and got a 50 ml bottle.
I think you it your vSO might like Agar Ebene
Oh boy, my wallet is cringing in fear. Actually, I have been very restrained so far this year but my crystal ball says I will probably go wild at some point(s) this year. I am due for an Hermes boutique visit in the next month or so. I understand these are not yet available in the U.S. If I don’t see them in the U.S., I will if I end up going to Paris in early October.
[…] succesfully retrieving my private bottle of Hermes Agar Ebene during my recent trip to Milan I thought I could tell you a bit about one of the other scents. My […]