Green diary, three from Kamila Aubre

Even if you tried your hardest to know all the world’s perfume you will never succeed. Not only fragrances are being discontinued and eventually are gone forever but in the meantime as you try something new, somewhere in the world another fragrance is being created. Personally I consider it as a good thing because no matter what there’s always something undiscovered waiting for you. Just like the other day Kamila Aubre got in touch with me asking if I’d be interested in trying her compositions. I don’t know too many natural perfumers, so the answer to that question was obvious.

orris-ambre

Orris Ambre has a tart opening with a grapefruit, shaded with coriander seed that adds a little bit of vegetal spiciness to it. There’s also an intensely red rose that creates a gorgeous flower bed. It’s drawing a colorful and saturated background for this perfume. Heart of this composition is a real flower bomb. Richly scented jasmine bursts on the skin, scattering imaginary petals all around you. It surrounds the wearer with a slightly indolic cloud of white florals. Addition of ylang-ylang makes Orris Ambre more lush and creamy with an irresistible tropical, exotic facet. Then orris root joins with its slightly earthy and buttery smell that later becomes more powdery. Drydown brings a generous dose of oakmoss that serves as a base on which some botanical musk and amber are presented. It’s a rich and carnal perfume, even slightly leathery at times. For bold and confident people.

villanelle

Villanelle starts with somewhat dark and dangerously smelling bergamot surrounded by sappy green yet resinous and gooey smell of galbanum. Marjoram adds some spicy texture to the scent and is also slightly grassy. Bergamot seems overwhelmed by these two – I could only smell a bit of its peel trying to peek through the green wrapping. Then French lavender appears. It has an intense character and very potent aroma that feels incredibly dry on my skin, like a plant drenched in the sun. It’s almost like hay with that coumarin-like back note. Jasmine introduces a floral nuance but is more toned down compared to Orris Ambre. I couldn’t smell juicy tartness of blackcurrant that is listed as one of the notes for Villanelle. Then we have vetiver that makes everything earthy and rooty. Dusk aroma of oakmoss spreads more as the perfume reaches its drydown. In the very end there’s a smoky & resinous labdanum. To me this perfume is like an unknown forest.

sachet-de-senteurs

Sachet de Senteurs is like a liquid potpourri on my skin. At first glance I can smell a lot of lively and juicy citrus. Bergamot is dominating but there are also mandarin and blood orange blended into it. These fresh and energetic notes are then followed by a herbal-floral lavender that transports you to Provence. Clary sage enhances the herbal impression while also adding a little bit of dirty, sweaty impression. Orris root has more of an earthy character in Sachet de Senteurs which then transitions into patchouli. The latter one has a smell of leaves that start to rot and are earthy. Like a decaying plant. Violet leaf provides a crispy and more fresh contrast to it. Also because of the rose the perfume becomes more floral – hence the comparison to potpourri at the beginning. Angelica adds some green-tinged spiciness while gaiacwood gives a solid base to the scent. It’s a bit resinous too.

Considering that all of these are natural botanical perfumes they are really well blended and with time they evolve nicely on the skin. Smelling them one by one I noticed that there’s a link between them – all 3 have that earthy and green, forest-like element. The longevity on my skin was average. Natural perfume usually last 5-6 hours on my skin and so did the ones from Kamila Aubre. Their sillage was rather small. These compositions are extraits. They’re available in 15 ml dab bottles.

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13 thoughts on “Green diary, three from Kamila Aubre

  1. Undina says:

    Great job! I would not have learned about this brand (and read some of the articles on their site) if it weren’t for your review.

    I do not believe in “all-natural” perfumery in general: in the last 8 years that I’ve been actively testing perfumes, I found exactly two all-natural perfumes that I really liked and bought to wear. So while it is theoretically possible that this brand has created something that I might like, I can hardly imagine loving it enough to buy (I’m not saying “never” but just being skeptical).
    I have also something to say about the price but I’ll do it on my blog once I finish the post on the topic 😉

    • lucasai says:

      I think I know just the perfumes you have in mind.

      Looking forward to your post on that topic. I see you made a decision to touch it in the end (after we decided not to do a double post on that topic)

      • Undina says:

        You didn’t sound like you wanted just to postpone it but rather didn’t want to do it at all. Since I have almost no industry connections (and do not plan on changing that), I can write whatever I feel like – not that anybody will notice anyway 🙂

    • Kamila Aubre says:

      Lucas was one of the first bloggers to review my perfumes (Thank you for your promptness!). More reviews are coming.
      There are many wonderful all natural perfumes these days, the question is where you draw the line between natural and non-natural…
      And thank you for reading my articles! Curious about the topic on the price, although one must remember about the different types of perfumes and the ingredients used, so many factors determine pricing, by the way I wrote on that in my Journal 🙂

      • Undina says:

        That was one of the articles that I actually read, and it prompted me to keep working on the topic that Lucas and I were thinking of not doing. You’re invited to read (and argue 🙂 ) my opinion once I publish that post.

  2. hajusuuri says:

    All these sound nice and worth trying! Sachet de Senteurs may be scarey with its potpourri-like smell and the only way to chase away that fear is to try it. There was a time when an all natural designation would bump up the desireability of a perfume but not anymore. To me, “all natural” simply means not 100% synthetic. Coincidentally, I an wearing Aftelier Vanilla Smoke extrait, the brand of which tends to bill itself as usung pure and natural ingredients.

    • lucasai says:

      I see my dear. Well, to me it doesn’t matter if the perfume is natural, synthetic or mixed. As long as it does smell good on my skin I’m going to wear it 😉

      • hajusuuri says:

        I’ve actually stopped making distinctions because, like you, if it smells good, I’ll wear it regardless of natural / synthetic mix. I’m basically saying something is all natural does not give it any

        Anyway, I meant to say that “all natural” does not itself generate an advantage (“not man-made chemicals”, tends to be more expensive) nor a disadvantage (due to perceived longevity issues).

        I’m curious to know if samples can be bought. Although I’m already drowning in samples, a new brand with a reasonable number of debut fragrances (3 is perfect!) is always worth a look-see!

        • lucasai says:

          Happy to see we agree on that matter.

          You can find 0.5 ml samples at Kamila Aubre official website. There are actually more than these 3. I just chose these 3 as they were most appealing judging by their notes

    • Kamila Aubre says:

      Scents are interpreted so differently by people. I think Lucas confused two words Sachet and Potpourri (if I am right, it might be corrected in the review), the former was the inspiration behind the perfume and has a more sophisticated meaning for me. Although potpourri can also bring some exquisite scents. The simplicity of classic botanicals like violets, lavender and rose are the ones behind Sachet de Senteurs…

  3. The Accords says:

    Earthy forests sound intriguing to me! Thank you for this review Lucas, I’ve been admiring the images Kamila has on Instagram, they’re beautiful, but until the scratch and sniff algorithm launches beautiful images only get you so far!

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