Even if you tried your hardest to know all the world’s perfume you will never succeed. Not only fragrances are being discontinued and eventually are gone forever but in the meantime as you try something new, somewhere in the world another fragrance is being created. Personally I consider it as a good thing because no matter what there’s always something undiscovered waiting for you. Just like the other day Kamila Aubre got in touch with me asking if I’d be interested in trying her compositions. I don’t know too many natural perfumers, so the answer to that question was obvious.
Orris Ambre has a tart opening with a grapefruit, shaded with coriander seed that adds a little bit of vegetal spiciness to it. There’s also an intensely red rose that creates a gorgeous flower bed. It’s drawing a colorful and saturated background for this perfume. Heart of this composition is a real flower bomb. Richly scented jasmine bursts on the skin, scattering imaginary petals all around you. It surrounds the wearer with a slightly indolic cloud of white florals. Addition of ylang-ylang makes Orris Ambre more lush and creamy with an irresistible tropical, exotic facet. Then orris root joins with its slightly earthy and buttery smell that later becomes more powdery. Drydown brings a generous dose of oakmoss that serves as a base on which some botanical musk and amber are presented. It’s a rich and carnal perfume, even slightly leathery at times. For bold and confident people.
Villanelle starts with somewhat dark and dangerously smelling bergamot surrounded by sappy green yet resinous and gooey smell of galbanum. Marjoram adds some spicy texture to the scent and is also slightly grassy. Bergamot seems overwhelmed by these two – I could only smell a bit of its peel trying to peek through the green wrapping. Then French lavender appears. It has an intense character and very potent aroma that feels incredibly dry on my skin, like a plant drenched in the sun. It’s almost like hay with that coumarin-like back note. Jasmine introduces a floral nuance but is more toned down compared to Orris Ambre. I couldn’t smell juicy tartness of blackcurrant that is listed as one of the notes for Villanelle. Then we have vetiver that makes everything earthy and rooty. Dusk aroma of oakmoss spreads more as the perfume reaches its drydown. In the very end there’s a smoky & resinous labdanum. To me this perfume is like an unknown forest.
Sachet de Senteurs is like a liquid potpourri on my skin. At first glance I can smell a lot of lively and juicy citrus. Bergamot is dominating but there are also mandarin and blood orange blended into it. These fresh and energetic notes are then followed by a herbal-floral lavender that transports you to Provence. Clary sage enhances the herbal impression while also adding a little bit of dirty, sweaty impression. Orris root has more of an earthy character in Sachet de Senteurs which then transitions into patchouli. The latter one has a smell of leaves that start to rot and are earthy. Like a decaying plant. Violet leaf provides a crispy and more fresh contrast to it. Also because of the rose the perfume becomes more floral – hence the comparison to potpourri at the beginning. Angelica adds some green-tinged spiciness while gaiacwood gives a solid base to the scent. It’s a bit resinous too.
Considering that all of these are natural botanical perfumes they are really well blended and with time they evolve nicely on the skin. Smelling them one by one I noticed that there’s a link between them – all 3 have that earthy and green, forest-like element. The longevity on my skin was average. Natural perfume usually last 5-6 hours on my skin and so did the ones from Kamila Aubre. Their sillage was rather small. These compositions are extraits. They’re available in 15 ml dab bottles.