Golden Impressions of Esxence 2018 – day 1

Just a few days ago I was still in Milan enjoying beautiful Italian spring, magnolias blossoming all over the city & most of all having a great time at Esxence. It was a special edition as 10th anniversary calls for more effort to make it even better than usual. To highlight the occassion of such round birthday the entrance hall of the Mall was decorated with huge statue symbolizing number ’10’ with golden garlands twinkling under the ceiling and golden flakes scattered all over the floor.

It was a bling but in classy and elegant way. Out of 4 days of the show I attended 3, but it didn’t go as smoothly as in previous years… You see… I was supposed to arrive in Milan last Wednesday in the evening but it turned into a nervous story of how I did NOT get to Milan. The thing is – I missed my flight! I was taking the direct bus from Poznań where I live to Berlin Schonefeld airport and maybe 20 minutes before the scheduled departure time all passengers were informed that the bus will have 1 hour delay. When it eventually arrived there was a huge traffic (accident?) on a motorway near Berlin. In the end when we arrived at the airport it was 40 minutes after my flight.

Stressed and all in nerves I didn’t know what to do, I missed my flight for the first time in my life. I even contacted the airport but there was nothing that could’ve been done to help me. And since I was flying with Ryanair my plane ticket was not refundable or exchangeable. I had to buy another ticket for a different flight but there were none more on the same afternoon – I had to wait until Thursday morning to fly to Milan, therefore I also had to rent a hotel room for the night. It was a rough start but I made it there in the end. Thank God my Airbnb host wasn’t causing trouble.

After getting to my sleeping place, quick unpacking and a change of clothes I immediately went to The Mall at Piazza Lina Bo Bardi where Esxence is held for a few years now. I arrived around noon, so I only missed first 1,5 hours of the show. Still not that bad as for such a rough start of my trip. My first appointment at 12:15 (so I made it just in time) was with Jacques Fath team. They were launching a perfume which was a result of  a very exciting project. They asked perfume historians, connoiseurs and vintage fragrance collectors who were familar with the smell of Iris Gris to become judges of an open submission contest to recreate this masterpiece. There were around 5 versions proposed by different perfumers and after blind testing by the experts they unanimously chose a version by Patrice Revillard, a young perfumer who only just graduated.

After the announcement of 5th annual Art and Olfaction Awards finalists that took place right after my first meeting I continued to explore the place until I saw Joaquim Carner in the crowd. He had a free moment so I decided to use this occasion to discover novelties from Carner Barcelona. The brand is launching an oriental collection featuring trio of fragrances: resinous Megalium, ambery Ambar del Sur and incensy Botafumeiro. Design of the bottles remained the same, it’s the brown wooden cap that is a signature element of the new series. The brand seems to want add a new trio each year.

Olfactive Studio and brand’s head Celine Verleure were showcasing their 12th fragrance – Flash Back in New York. Despite the fact that part of its name is shared with with one of their previous launches this is not a case of a flanker in niche. It’s a completely different perfume that was inspired by a photography of New York City in a snow storm. The perfume is a fusion of warm and cold with quite a heavy accent on violet leaf and leather. There’s also a lot of spiciness to it.

The most sensational discovery of Esxence 2018 was probably a new perfume from Neela Vermeire and her brand. I felt connected to these fragrances since a debut of this maison de parfum and I just loved the iris hiding within Ashoka so I was super excited to learn that new composition is going to be all about iris. And it is absolutely amazing! Bertrand Duchaufour made an iris that is creamy, buttery, gently sweet, entwined with notes of tea and champagne fizz effect. Their pretty flacon got a purple veil that goes from transparent at the base and more saturated at the top. And packaging of Niral uses silk for even more luxurious and sensorial experience. I know I want to have it!

Fragrance house of Angela Ciampagna had a break last year due to their laboratory collapsing after an earthquake but this year they were back with some new fragrant ideas. First of all they presented Laetitia, a water-based perfume for children. They also had two complex, resinous new fragrances named Miracula and Materia. Both were well made, I will be further exploring my samples.
Masque Milano is always one of the brands that attract a lot of attention at Esxence. Each time they work with a different perfumer and for their 2018 release they chose to work with a young perfumer Fanny Bal from IFF. They presented a perfume called Hemingway and it smells mostly of vetiver (they used couple of different species) but there was also tart rhubarb in the opening.

Anatole Lebreton was there too! Last year I totally fell in love with his Grimoire. New composition that was being launched at Esxence is named Cornaline and is completely different from all the perfumes in the range. It’s very easy-going and casual. It features quite tropical ylang-ylang combined with bergamot, iris, carrot and benzoin among other notes. I think it’s a great addition.
Aether is the brand from Nicolas Chabot who is also owner of Le Galion and it focuses on synthetic aroma molecules. This spring 4 new fragrances were introduces: Hypær, Supær, Ultræ, Xtræm. Each of them contains an abundance of one of the iconic perfume synthetics like Iso E Super. It’s kind of like Escentric Molecules but the fragrances are made from more than just 1 ingredient.

In mid-afternoon I was going out for a while as I had planned a meeting with Atelier des Ors. Their team wasn’t present at Esxence this time but they had a ‘salon’ organized at a hotel just across the street. I knew beforehand that they’ll have 4 new fragrances to show me and since it’s one of my favorite brands my expectations were really high. Jean-Philippe Clermont – owner of the brand together with Megan who works for the brand presented me with their novelties. They extended their existing line with 1 perfume called Bois Sikar, it’s a super heavy one with lots and lots of dry tobacco and rum. I also noticed a lot of dark tar in it. They also launched White Collection inspired by synesthesia of Klimt art and music. Fragrances are named Nuda Veritas, Crepuscule des Ames and Choeur des Anges. They are lighter than black collection fragrances but still very pretty and interesting. Personal favorite was Nuda Veritas. White details of the packaging look really good too.

Jardins d’Ecrivains joined Esxence this year in order to present their latest development, a trio of splash colognes. They come in 300 ml glass bottles with a trigger spray (like a window cleaner or Moschino Fresh). They are light and not very concentrated and the idea for them is to prolong a feeling of freshness after a shower or during a hot day. You are meant to spray these all over your body. L’Eau de Leopardi is a super refreshing verbena, L’Eau de Kakuzo is more green and smells of tea while L’Eau de Marceline is more floral and feminine. At a very affordable price I think they could serve really well in the summer. I loved the display with sponges to smell them.

By the end of the day I also managed to stop by and say hi to Gabriella Chieffo. She composed a new fragrance that stands out due to being different and more approachable than other perfumes from this Italian brand. Lattedoro smells creamy, sensual and comforting, like a warm glass of milk with honey our mothers made for us when we were young. The perfume has coconut, iris, ginger and some other notes. It’s a gourmand scent but a very well-made one. It’s appetizing but not sickening, you won’t feel as if you were wearing a whole candy shop on your skin.

My last stop for Thursday was Nishane, who inspired by Le Petit Prince launched a duet of fragrances themed around this novella. B-612 is housed in brand’s usual bottle with a blue metal plate (decorated with tiny planets and stars) and it’s focused mostly on lavender that’s been paired with other ingredients. I summarized it as a ‘baby lavender’ because it smells rather soft and powdery. 2nd fragrance is Vain & Naive and has a red metal plate. It’s a rose perfume, a tribute to Little Prince’s rose. I liked that one less but it definitely wasn’t bad. One more thing from Murat Katran and Mert Guzel was a Colognisé, a lemon cologne – fresh and as simple as that.

After the show I had a delicious day with Atelier des Ors team. It was a tiring day, especially that just the same morning I had that second flight to Milan. But all in all I was happy that I got there in the end. I still had two more days to talk to people and smell the perfume. About that in part 2.

 

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20 thoughts on “Golden Impressions of Esxence 2018 – day 1

  1. Lynn Watson says:

    Hi Lucas. I was there too! I was going to give you a shout but believe it or not my visit did not go to plan either, so I only attended on the Sunday, instead of Saturday and Sunday as we had intended. The first time I went to Esxence I found it all too overwhelming and I was quite nervous actually. This time I was far more relaxed and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I share a highlight with you; Neela Vermeire Niral. Neela herself was a joy to meet, as was Alessandro at Masque Melano, as he also was the last time. Even after three full on days he will give you his undivided attention. I was really looking forward to smelling L’Atessa and it didn’t disappoint. It’s beautiful. Hommage to Hemingway is a powerhouse vetiver. I don’t want to mention any others just now because you may duiscuss them in your next instalments. I can’t wait!

    Regards,

    Lynn

    • lucasai says:

      Ah, that’s a shame we missed each other. I wasn’t there on Sunday anymore as I had a really early flight back to Poland on that day.
      Happy to hear though that this time you were more relaxed and that you enjoyed Esxence!

  2. Lukas – I love reading your follow up impressions to the shows. It’s so fun to hear about all the new and exciting things going on in the industry. And I can’t wait to experience the new Neela and Bertrand creation…so far I have heard nothing but fantastic praise.

    Sorry for the travel problems…I guess maybe next time you’ll probably leave for the airport a lot earlier?!

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you Houndie! Glad you liked this report. Niral is absolutely fabulous, I think I like it the most from this Esxence.

      Problem with getting to the Berlin airport by bus is that the only earlier one leaves at 6 in the morning… I would have to wait at the airport like 6-8 hours for the afternoon flight

  3. Holly says:

    I’m so glad that you enjoyed your trip after such a rocky start! I loved your Instagram posts. I believe that I also saw you in Fragrantica’s Esxence video, amiright? Looking forward to your next installment!

  4. rickyrebarco says:

    The new Neela Vermeire Niral sounds divine, I think I will have to have that one myself. Glad you finally got to Milan and all ended well. Looking forward to hearing about all the other wonderful fragrances!!

  5. Sarah says:

    I am sorry to hear of your travel difficulties. It seems these days it is the norm for something to go awry when traveling by air.
    The rest of your experience sounds enchanting! So many choices to sample. Thank,you for all your posts. I enjoyed them very much!
    L’Eau de Marceline has me intrigued as we live in a hot, humid climate. The splashes sound perfect for me.
    Thank you, Lucas!
    Sarah

  6. Undina says:

    I saw you mentioning on FB your difficulties with getting to Milan (after the fact since I don’t go there too often), but I’m glad that it ended well. Being late for a connection is my constant fear.

    From what you’ve mentioned I’m the most interested in NVC and Nishane (especially the lavender one), I know that I won’t be trying those aroma chemicals ones, and I wouldn’t mind trying the rest of what attracted your attention but I won’t be actively seeking that “rest”. Niral and B-612 though seem like a must try. And that beautiful NVC bottle…

    Thank you for the report. I look forward to the next installment.

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you my dear. I was rather nervous and frustrated and called my parents every couple of minutes. I didn’t lose my mind in The end and worked my way how to get to Milan as early as possible. It’s just extra money spent.

      Good choices my dear, I am sure Niral is your thing. It’s a very good iris

  7. Jillie says:

    Dipping my toes back into Perfume Land …. and making a good start with your adventures. I like the idea of the tasteful gold theme (I am a sucker for sparkle), and some of these perfumes seem really lovely. I am intrigued about the recreation of Iris Gris and very impressed and pleased that a young chap did so well!

    So sorry for your travel woes, but glad that – apart from the stress and tiredness – they did not in the end have a huge effect on your visit.

    • lucasai says:

      Welcome back sweetie, we’ve missed you!
      I liked the idea of an open contest to create that perfume, was a chance for your perfumers like Patrice. At the beginning the brand owners couldn’t believe that all judges liked his submission the most.

  8. hajusuuri says:

    I admire your fortitude, Lucas. If I missed my flight, I would initially be super-focused on rectifying the situation with surgical precision, then curl into a ball and cry. There was only one time when a plane delayed a connecting flight (to Budapest) to wait for passengers (including me) who were delayed due to inefficiencies at Charles de Gaulle; my group apparently made up more than half the passengers of that particular flight.

    You’ve teased us with many interesting smelly fragrances. I can’t wait for your full reviews!

    Regarding the Iris Gris contest, I wonder if DSH’s Scent of Hope would have won the prize?

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you sweetie, giving up at that point was a no-no. In case that you describe I completely understand that the 2nd plane waited for you since there were so many people who were changing for that particular flight.

      I am not familiar with Scent of Hope but perhaps she didn’t even participate in this contest

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