Even if two countries are separated from each other by thousand miles it doesn’t mean they cannot be connected in some way. For countries are more than just a land and a shape on a map. Most of all it’s people who create countries and their unique cultures. And despite the fact that we differ among each other we’re all humans & we often share interests, dreams and passion. Perfume house of Neela Vermeire Creations often brings to our attention special connections between India and Europe. Their new composition which also marks the beginning of a new olfactive chapter was inspired by Sir Thomas Wardle who helped to promote Indian wild silk in Europe.
Niral opens with a somewhat fizzy impression that is very faint at first but intensifies after a minute or two. A little longer and this effervescent aroma becomes more lively. At some point it becomes obvious that it’s a champagne accord – it’s bubbly and a little bit yeasty. Sparkling character that it possesses is additionally highlighted by pink pepper that gives a sparkling & bubbly feeling as well. But with that extra pinch of spiciness added. This serene opening continues with a distinguished note of tea and in this particular case I have green tea in mind. It smells of a warm brew and of tannins – and those are slightly bitter. So far the perfume is filled with harmony and peace.
It takes time before Niral fully develops on one’s skin but I assure you that it’s worth all the time. For when the right time comes it begins to effuse a magnificent iris scent. If you have smelled Ashoka before and noticed iris in it – then saying that Niral is that iris but several times better would be the best recommendation for you to try new NVC composition. It’s a very complex part of this fragrance, it has multiple thin layers that come out one after another. At first it’s very buttery and rich. The next time I took a whiff it was more creamy and had a gentle sweetness to it, almost like a whipped cream. After that it becomes soft & more silky with a moment of more tea prominence.
Buttery phase was a lasting one on my skin while the whipped cream impression was just a glimpse. Then silky part took more time to evolve & finally it went towards a floral direction. Floral and now powdery iris started to envelop itself in a translucent rose lace that brough more value to Niral. The perfume remains centered around iris anyway. Presence of rose surely helped to extract all the best that iris could offer. But that’s not the end of flowers – there’s also magnolia. Through its pale, almost watery fragrance you really get a feeling as if you could touch the finest silk through this perfume. I like to imagine that notes here are like warp and weft that weave a scented fabric on skin.
Further into the development of NVC Niral there’s still a lot of excitement that this perfume has to offer. It’s not so soft and transparent anymore but solidifies due to presence of several woody notes. There’s a hefty dose of cedar that the perfumer used. It gives the feeling of a crude surface of a tree trunk but when sandalwood enters the scene everything feels much smoother in an instant. All rough edges became more round. Niral also features cabreuva which, as I had to check, is another woody material with a woody, dry and sweet scent profile. Here angelica seed is also revealed introducing some verdant shades with light spiciness. There’s also a mellow muskiness of ambrette.
Drydown of Niral is heavy and full-bodied. There’s a lot of leather going on and it smells rich and intense, as if someone only just dyed it black. The odours of a leather workshop are still floating around. Cardamom’s roasty spiciness adds that extra punch to it. There’s even a moment when I’m reminded of the smell of a heady red wine. But even after saying all that I have to admit that orris still remains a key to this perfume and its main theme. When I smell it I’m a little reminded of Masque L’Attesa but that one was way more yeasty because of the beer extract that they used to compose it. Niral is much more calm and has intricate built that really changes on skin over time.
When Neela informed me that her brand is going to launch a new iris perfume I was super excited but at the same time because I’m a big fan of the brand I set my bar of expectations really high. At Esxence I sprayed Niral on skin every single day and I couldn’t get enough of it! Niral which is a fruit of work of Neela Vermeire and perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour is absolutely amazing. The complexity and intricate patterns make it a must-try iris for anyone who loves the note. And the bottle with a purple hue (it’s a marriage of NVC signature bottle and Mohur Extrait flacon)is very elegant and pleasant to look at. Neela Vermeire Creations Niral is available as 60 ml eau de parfum.