Rose-me-not, Hermes Myrrhe Eglantine

After succesfully retrieving my private bottle of Hermes Agar Ebene during my recent trip to Milan I thought I could tell you a bit about one of the other scents. My feelings towards it are completely different. Myrrhe Eglantine leaves me cold but is still worth including on the blog.

Myrrhe Eglantine starts with an interesting fizzy note that reminds me of champagne or a sparkling wine. It lasts for a couple of minutes after which it becomes tart and tangy with something that smells really close grapefruit. It’s barely there but it makes a difference. This flute of champagne results with a slightly yeasty undertone on my skin whereas this unidentified citrus whisper has something tad sweaty to it. Just like all other Hermessence, Myrrhe Eglantine is faint but present on skin.

After two quarters I can’t smell a grapefruit or wine anymore however fruity-citrusy background still remains on my skin. Myrrhe Eglantine then develops rose tones but it’s not your usual rose. At first it smells sweet like a red-colored hard candy but then evolves into more floral scent. The fact is that it smells more like a rosehip which makes sense as Christine Nagel created an interpretation of Eglantine rose (Rosa rubiginosa). It yields very little essential oil therefore extraction is a no-no.

myrrhe-eglantine

Nagel admired the flower but decided to recreate its smell through a combination of other materials. I have to admit that it smells intriguing but personally I wouldn’t call Myrrhe Eglantine a rose fragrance at all. Later when myrrh joins the composition the perfume gains a balsamic facet. It smells of a dense resin & introduces the burning plastic impression which is a typical reaction of my skin to this perfume ingredient. It’s dusty, spicy, with a resinous sweetness at the same time.

I would love to tell you that there’s more things to smell her but unfortunately this is as far as Hermessence Myrrhe Eglantine goes. In fact Hermes only provided myrrh and wild rose in their press release. The rest is a secret so please bear in mind that all other stuff that I picked except of 2 given notes may be completely wrong. I find this particular to be some sort of paradox because it smells simple and complex at the same time. It uses oriental elements but it’s light in perception.

Myrrhe Eglantine was composed by Hermes in-house perfumer Christine Nagel. It’s available in 200 ml, 100 ml and 15 ml flacons of eau de toilette. It’s airy but lasts close to the skin for some time. If you like myrrh or the idea of an ‘abstract’ rose you should go ahead and give it a try.

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12 thoughts on “Rose-me-not, Hermes Myrrhe Eglantine

  1. Jillie says:

    “I know a bank where the wild thyme blows,
    Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows,
    Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,
    With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine.”

    ― William Shakespeare, A Midsummer Night’s Dream

    I love the idea of eglantine as a note in perfume, although I suspect that this perfume has more of an Middle Eastern vibe than the scent I imagine drifting from Shakespeare’s quintessentially English bank!

    • lucasai says:

      Oh, oh, oh! I love this little poem and its rhymes! Nothing less from Shakespeare.

      Yes, you’re right – these new Hermessence are more focused on oriental side of perfumery. They maintain signature lightness of Hermes but use more opulent ingredients.
      However I loved Agar Ebene and it didn’t feel that much oriental.

  2. shelly says:

    Your phrase, ” It uses oriental elements but it’s light in perception.” puts it well. So many Hermes scents have been light in perception. I am always on the brink of buying but want their scents but with a bit MORE.

    • lucasai says:

      Thank you & I totally agree. I never was tempted by a Hermessence because they were so watered-down and aquatic. Nagel’s style is a bit different and Agar Ebene spoke to me

  3. rickyrebarco says:

    Thanks for reviewing this one. You saved me from paying for a sample! Not my kind of fragrance and I already have 2 beautiful Myrrh fragrances already.

  4. Undina says:

    I wouldn’t have made any conscious efforts to try new Hermessence perfumes – usually they are fine, and I even wear a couple, but I’m not in love with any of them, – if it weren’t for you liking one of them enough to get a bottle. So I’ll get to the store that carries them. Eventually 🙂

    • lucasai says:

      I still say that you should focus on Agar Ebene. Even if not for yourself, it might be something your vSO would enjoy wearing.
      And hey, Eau de Citron Noir is not that bad either

    • hajusuuri says:

      Hello dearest Undina…I was naughty at the Hermes boutique but not with perfume. I will pass along my samples of Agar Ebene and Cedre Sambac once I am done testing them. I also got an extra Eau de Citron Noir (which is NOT NOIR) sample to send you as well!

  5. hajusuuri says:

    I was hoping to get a sample of this or at least get to smell it at the Hermes boutique but boo hiss, there was no bottle and no samples. That said, I look forward to trying this…although the “sweaty” comment is off-putting.

    • lucasai says:

      Shame on them that this one was not available at the boutique. Hopefully you’ll get to try it soon and that you won’t get the sweaty effect

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