Monday Quick Sniffs, part 46


Maison Francis Kurkdjian recently issued Aqua Celestia Forte, which is a flanker to Aqua Celestia introduced in 2017. I think forte is meant to be stronger and it’s just how it seems to be. It unfolds with a lightweight lime note that brings a little burst of juiciness to the skin. Shortly it is followed by blackcurrant. But instead of using a fruit the perfumer decided to use its bud. As a result a new green facet appears in the composition and it has a little bit of tarness – similar to the one that blackcurrant as a fruit provides. Addition of petitgrain brings more of a crispy freshness to Aqua Celestia Forte while mint makes it more invigorating and ice-chilled. Clean musky softness wraps around the wholeness of this MFK scent like a puff of fluffy cotton. Additional hints of mimosa and jasmine introduce a soft floral sensation but it’s very fleeting and barely there. I admit that Aqua Celestia Forte has more presence on skin than its predecessor. On the other hand I don’t think that this kind of perfume is worth its price tag. But the perfume is nice in general.


Latest composition introduced by Olfactive Studio is Flash Back in New York. It borrows part of its name from Flash Back (2013) but is a completely different perfume and shouldn’t be considered a flanker. Inspired by a photo of New York City in a snow storm the perfume is meant to present a contrast between cold and warm elements. At first the perfume is spicy, with a lot of saffron, bit of cumin and clary sage that make it feel more masculine. Then I get a whole lot of violet flower. On my skin it really becomes an overwhelming part of the perfume & through its dewiness it smells cold. Later a leather accord kicks in – it’s rather strong and bold. A dark leather that entwines with the smell of birch tar. As I see the progress of Flash Back in New York the perfume becomes dry, peppery. We have vetiver and papyrus that give this impression. In the drydown the fragrance becomes more aromatic & creamy thanks to tonka. Additional notes that slipped my attention include jasmine and cotton flower. Perfumer behind it is Jerome Epinette.


I have a feeling that Kilian has a lot of liking for exclusive fragrances and limited editions of some. The last one that I learned about is named Miami Vice (rolls eyes) and features two fragrances ‘inspired by the sun, sin and style of the city of Miami’. Love the Way You Taste is a straightforward evocation of mojito. It starts with a vibrant mint accord that is very green, aromatic (almost fougere, like fern) and has quite a resemblance of basil leaves. This scent makes a pairing with zesty lemon to provide explosive freshness that really is similar to mojito cocktail. Addition of magnolia makes the composition slightly milder although floral-lemony signature of magnolia matches this theme really well. More green elements introduce dewiness. Vetiver in the base makes Love the Way You Taste feel more grassy and it also provides a specific dryness that could remind of gin scent. The perfume indeed has something that gives it its alcoholic vibe. Otherwise this limited edition from Kilian is a simple, non complicated fragrance that mimics a popular beverage is a nice way. In this case I also have a feeling that price tag is way too high. Sidonie Lancesseur is the perfumer who created this limited edition fragrance.

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16 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 46

  1. Jillie says:

    I really fancy a mojito now! The Kilian looks good, but the price not so much … I will stick with my old bottle of Guerlain’s Herba Fresca for a minty kick in the heat of the summer.

  2. hajusuuri says:

    MQS! The MFK sounds like it’s worth a try. Flashback New York scares me with the cumin … I imagine it’s similar to 4160Tuesday Times Square which was a scrubber.

  3. Holly says:

    Yay for MQS! I’ll give these a pass but a frozen margarita sounds mighty good right now. 😉

  4. Undina says:

    I’m not an MFK fan, and all those bottles and names look the same to me – so I’ll probably skip this one as well.

    I remember you mentioning in one of your reports from the event that “Flashback in NY is not a flanker” – but for the life of me I can’t figure out what exactly makes it NOT a flanker? It’s the same company and the same partial name. If you look at many current mainstream flankers, they are not necessarily even close to the original creations in scent, and the only thing that gets re-used is the name.

    The only association with Miami Vice I have is the TV show from 80s. I haven’t seen it but I know the name. And as much as I like the guy himself, I’m yet to spend that amount of money on any cologne-style creation. I should stick to what Atelier Cologne or Berdoues offers for that genre.

    • lucasai says:

      I remember you not liking MFK so I’m not surprised. The only one I truly like and invested my money in is Grand Soir.

      Well, you are right but at the same time my mind is programmed to consider only perfumes that share the same core as flankers. I know flankers nowadays often have nothing to do with the first perfume in the line but oh well, that’s how I like to see it. Even if I’m wrong 😉

      Oh, so you like Kilian as a person. Well, good for you 😛 Definitely Atelier Cologne and Berdoues would be more desirable here

  5. rickyrebarco says:

    Thanks for the reviews as always. I like the sound of the Kilian but the price will be prohibitive I am sure. The Flash Back in New York also sounds nice, but too masculine overall for me. Hope you have a wonderful spring week!

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