It doesn’t happen too often when a famous candlemaker decides to try their chances in fine fragrance business. It was natural that I wanted to test the perfume from Trudon, especially the one named Bruma as it was listing iris in the formula. Thanks to a friend I got a sample. So primarily Trudon Bruma opens with a moist scent of the underground part of the iris plant. I smell roots – earthy but buttery at the same time, surrounded by the dampness of the dark soil that nurtures it. A little bit later a black pepper note intersects with it, making things more dry and with a slight yet noticeable metallic aftertaste. Then things get more flowery because of the violet and peony. The first one smells powdery and candied while the other flower is more fresh & watery-ozonic. Interesting twist is a presence of lavender. Its purple tinge adds a herbal-flowery feeling to Bruma and the powdery sensation still exists but is more in the back now. As hours pass a balsamic element emerges from the aromatic one. Combination of labdanum, tonka and dry vetiver introduce an effect that smells like ash to my nose. And it’s not something new – Aedes has done it much better with Iris Nazarena. Bruma is a correct perfume but not something that would make me crave for more. Can’t love them all.
If as a child you read or someone read to you The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupery you might remember that B-612 was the name of the asteroid on which the Prince lived. Inspired by this novella Nishane launched a duet of fragrances earlier this year and B-612 is one of the two. The perfume begins with a smell of cypress that combines elements of woody & green smells entwined more thick and oily scent one would associate with cypress oil. Then lavender accord follows and it’s sort of a baby lavender scent. Very gentle, floral with powdery nuances and muskiness that is very fluffly and cotton-like. Geranium changes this character a bit making B-612 more crispy and aromatic through the smell of its foliage. Heart features more heavy notes, like sandalwood or cedar that create a solid woody facet. There’s also this wet concrete effect of cashmere wood – it just doesn’t fit here in my opinion and patchouli sort of extends this impression. Drydown of Nishane B-612 mixes oakmoss, tonka and musk. The perfume certainly becomes a bit dusty while tonka spreads its creamy spiciness all around. I don’t consider this new Nishane as a bad perfume. There’s just something in its formula that really disturbs me every time I try to smell it on my skin.
Making perfume as a way to commemorate horse races doesn’t seem like the most appealing motive, at least to me, that’s why I was never very interested in the range of Parfums de Marly. But since a sample of one of their newest creations – Delina ‘accidentally’ fell on my lap I decided to give it a try. On the first impression this is a generic fruity-floral composition as there are many of them on the market except this one is niche. The opening unveils an intensively fruity accord of lychee that is immersed in a sickeningly sweet sugar syrup. This level of sweetness is way too much for me. Rhubarb tries to temper it with its own tartness but it doesn’t have enough power to make a change. Then the perfume walks towards a big and decorative bouquet of red roses and pink peonies. Their floral scents entwine creating a nice concoction of flowery & soft powdery facets. Muguet adds an innocent and clear type of freshness to it. Then a lot of musk combined with cashmeran is revealed and its definitely a white musk smell. It’s fluffy and marshmallowy & additionally generously topped with vanilla. I just can’t handle it anymore. Additional notes that I didn’t pick include bergamot, nutmeg, woods and frankincense.