I don’t know a person who wouldn’t like to experience happiness in their life. Everyone seeks their own way to find it and, once it’s found, to keep it by your side as long as you can. As many there are people in the world, as many there are recipes for being happy. Some find it in friends & family, others in possibility to travel across the world or in doing things that let them express who they really are. Atelier des Ors wishes that you find happiness in their new fragrances, inspired by Beethoven’s 9th Symphony and Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze. A search through art, music and scent.
Crepuscule des Ames opens with a mandarin orange note that falls far from your usual understanding of a citrus fruit. First of all I can’t smell much juiciness or freshness from it. Actually it gives off a vibe of a sliced mandarin that is drying in the scorching sun of Sicily or other summery place. Instead of the juicy burst you can experience aromatic zestiness of the rind. It has a tang with a tiny bit of sweetness behind it. While smelling it with a nose pressed to my wrist I can catch a whiff of a freshly squeezed orange juice aroma. I find it really appealing how not obvious, how different and undefined this perfume is.
After a couple of minutes cardamom joins the composition. Citrus and spice is unusual pairing and it smells just as unusual as it sounds. The warm spiciness of cardamom, its slightly roasty, crunchy aspect combines with a dry mandarin, the latter one more green now. The smell is bizarre but satisfying. Plus even though it has a warm character it smells quite fresh and not overpowering – even on a hot summer day. Clary sage in Crepuscule des Ames brings a second wave of aromatic nuances. But this time those are more herbaceous, mentholated with a hint of sweat.
To be honest with you from the very first moment I tried this new Atelier des Ors release I realized that Crepuscule des Ames definitely has more of a masculine DNA, or to put it in other words, it’s the most masculine one in the White Collection. It’s not only clary sage that convinces me about that. I don’t know how a hyssop smells but later on I get a vegetal spiciness of a pimento. It has this fiery peppery smell that tingles inside your nose and at the same time there’s something seductive & very manly about it. It’s the element that could introduce a sexual tension between two lovers. An evening invitation to discover the unknown.
For the next 2-3 hours the perfume was changing a little bit. I could smell all of the earlier notes present in different proportions depending on the moment I smelled it. After that time I noticed that some balsamic qualities are building up in deeper layers of Crepuscule des Ames. Eventually they surface et voila – now you can smell some frankincense. It’s more balmy, chewy and sense rather than airy and spiritual kind. Hyraceum (or hyrax) is a core element of this composition. In description it smells like a combination of musk, castoreum and civet. In this case it’s mostly musk.
Musky aspect of hyraceum is definitely animalic but at the same time it doesn’t have the pungency or repulsive smell like many animal-derived smells (now synthetic of course). It’s somehow elegant and sophisticated if you ask me. It has the sensuality and warmth, like the smell of man’s skin but more dirty, more wild. It’s just another part of Crepuscule des Ames that has a trail of seduction and lust. Together with patchouli that completes this fragrance, you receive a multi-layered, multi-faceted composition with depth, dimension and more than 1 nuance to play with your nose.
During my first smelling of a White Collection in Milan I remember making this funny remark to Atelier des Ors Jean-Philippe Clermont and Megan Paki that it smells like Paco Rabanne Invictus. Even if resemblance is small I still get it up to this day. Obviously Crepuscule des Ames is way more elegant, not sporty at all, and very sophisticated. Perfumer behind this fragrance is Marie Salamagne. Crepuscule des Ames is an eau de parfum presented in brand’s signature 100 ml bottle with white elements (cap, name plaque). Would you like to give this intriguing creation a try?