“She put on her leather jacket, a symbol of her rebellious spirit, and leaving everything behind she went outside. Her boyfriend was already waiting, sitting on top of his chromed machine. She jumped on a motorcycle right behind him, the engine roared and they drove towards the unknown. Together. It was the beginning of their adventure.” That’s how a new Hiram Green creation could start if it was a narrative instead of a perfume. But I am happy it is a fragrance after all for I haven’t smelled something so mind-blowing for a long time. A perfume so powerful you won’t be able to forget it.
Hyde is a perfume that is very loud and powerful right from the start. Beginning – an explosion of citric notes in which bergamot and lemon clash, releasing their oils with a bursting sensation. To me these two are very much unlike themselves – acrid like harsh chemical, oily, viscous and acidic too. Not to mention that a finger snap later this feeling will vanish into nothing. Behind this intriguing and misleading facade hides a true meaning of this fragrance, a real beast. Just few minutes after I first sprayed the perfume on it becomes really beefy, gains density & creates a darkest aura around me.
Smokiness of Hyde, a rich & overpowering smell of burning wood and its resins is largely affected by birch tar. To me this is one of the most challenging ingredients in perfumery as it not only gives new Hiram Green creation a smoky facet but it actually also evokes something charred, meaty. It’s unusual, it’s strong and even if you think it’s not for you, this perfume draws you in, deeper and deeper. Cassie flower is another challenge to many noses but in case of Hyde it plays surprisingly well with other ingredients and it doesn’t attract as much attention as birch tar does.
Methinks that a cassie flower effect unveils later on because after a couple of hours a sweet scent of honey reached my nose. There was something slightly animalic to it but then also other impressions started to come to my mind. Hyde made me thinking cloves, something spicy, a hint of dark rose, tannins. And then at some point it all of these puzzle pieces came together – I realized that I imagined a mulled wine accord there. Also at this point leather started to be more evident to me. Black, complex and textured, smooth & lacquered on one side and raw on the other side.
Even after a couple of hours Hiram Green Hyde doesn’t give up on its intensity. However what happens over time is that the perfume becomes more mellow and tender. It’s moving towards warmer tones with labdanum at the front. It’s a source of smokiness as well but of more embracing manner. It’s like a blanket braided with balms, resins and spices. It feels cosy. When vanilla enters the scene it adds just a minimum of sweetness. It introduces more of a boozy Bourbon vibe. Lastly oakmoss unveils, making Hyde a bit more dry, rugged & earthy in perception yet no less great.
Hiram Green created this uniquely strange and strangely unique perfume named Hyde and I didn’t expect it to smell the way it does. When I first saw a press release I immediately had some doubts – especially seeing birch and cassie listed, with which I don’t get along well. Hiram managed to surprise me because I like Hyde, I really do! Not as much as Arbole Arbole (my favorite from him) but more than Slowdive. As for 100% natural fragrance Hyde projects very well and lasts all day long. Its super dark liquid has been poured into 50 ml bottles. Samples are available too.