Wowoweewa! It’s already a part 50th of Monday Quick Sniffs! I guess this calls for some celebration, doesn’t it? As soon as I come up with some idea I’ll keep you posted, so stay tuned.
I’m well aware that Ormonde Jayne is quite adored by perfume lovers in UK and not only there but for unknown reasons it was always more difficult to find something I’d like in this range. In 2015 I had hope I’d fall for Vanille d’Iris but what looked fantastic on paper turned out to be hard to bear on skin. Perfume starts with a note of coriander shortly followed by vegetal tones of carrot seed. But after a few minutes I begin to pick a very artificial element, like a cellophane foil and umami flavor at once. I blame it on Iso E Super – a material so adored by Geza Shoen. Later on orris butter makes the perfume more likeable again, with inflections of creamy magnolia, sueded osmanthus and jasmine. Drydown has an abstract vanilla that is neither sweet nor dark, Bourbon-like. Vetiver and cedarwood give it a dry facet while amber and tonka make the drydown warmer but not as cuddly as I’d want. In the overall impression the perfume doesn’t work for me, which is a shame… Maybe that’s for the better, knowing how steep are the OJ prices.
Safran Rare from Amouroud is one of the fragrances that I have mixed feelings about, meaning I can’t decide if I like or dislike it. In my case the perfume almost immediately jumps over to the heart notes, skipping top ones which include freesia, bergamot, frankincense and geranium. I can identify the incense accord but nothing else. Then the composition moves on to a very dry cedarwood note which feels rough and lacks some smoothing. Saffron has a liquory vibe and it also feels dry. It’s definitely not a plush, comforting saffron you know from other fragrances. A duet of flowers – rose and jasmine adds some luminosity to this rather dark perfume. Among base notes there’s quite a lot of oud oozing between other ingredients. Its dense, rich scent has an effect of engulfing anything else, like a lava that consumes any object on its way. Benzoin creates a balmy facet that feels slightly alcoholic. Vetiver and sandalwood add more woodiness but it continues to be parched. I didn’t get much vanilla from Safran Rare. Were I looking for a cosy saffron scent, this definitely wouldn’t be my choice.
Carner Barcelona introduced their Oriental Collection this Spring, which seems like a weird moment of the year to present ambers, incenses and other fragrances of that kind but that’s just my opinion. Ambar del Sur begins with a boozy vibe on my skin that makes me think of vodka. As soon as the fragrances warms up on the skin it releases an aromatic cloud of earthy-leafy patchouli. Semi-smooth sandalwood from Australia gives a nice weight to this composition while delicate hints of jasmine make it slightly softer. Amber, a star of this perfume is warm, balsamic and with some booziness to it. Later into fragrance development Ambar del Sur effuses a burning sensation of myrrh (with bit of plastic) and quite a generous dose of cistus (labdanum) for that smoky, balmy and sensual vibe. Tonka bean from Venezuela makes the perfume nicely warm, vibrant and spicy in a gourmandish way. Final touch of vanilla in responsible for adding that dark, smoked scent of vanilla pod – there’s sweetness but also something more mysterious and sensual. Ambar del Sur is not an inventive amber fragrance but it doesn’t mean it’s not nice. It’s just too similar to other ambers.