For as long as I’m writing Chemist in the Bottle there still is a whole bunch of brands that I haven’t heard of or at least that I haven’t tried for one reason or another. Regarding Les Parfums de Rosine this is exactly my case – I don’t know many fragrances from the line because in my eyes this brand has always been focusing on girly, feminine compositions so I never thought I would find there something for me. But now the brand is changing their perspective with four Les Extravagants.
A mouth-watering opening of Bois Fuchsia is overflowing with a blackcurrant note. The smell of this red fruit is very realistic here, it’s juicy and sweet but at the same time it’s properly tart, with a nice tanginess underneath. The perfumer has paired this initial note with an iris accord which gives it a powdery facet with delicate hints of silky-floral nuances. Because of the iris the fragrance gives sort of a cosmetic impression, as if you could potentially find it in a blush or a cream. After a while Bois Fuchsia becomes even more fruity but in a syrupy aspect. You can smell a whole bunch of fresh raspberries entwined with feminine notes of rose. It gives quite an edible feeling which makes sense as the perfume is a tribute to ‘Rosa Gallica’ which is popularly used in preserves.
Sugary sweetness of lychee adds some more gourmand character to Bois Fuchsia although I still wouldn’t classify it as such. Especially that in the drydown the scent becomes quite earthy, with some moisture. That effect given by patchouli and leftover fruitiness make me think of some garden works. Sandalwood gives a bit more substance to this composition, while musk gives it more fluffiness and cotton-like texture. It’s a nice & cheerful, kind of flirty composition, more for women.
Vanille Paradoxe is a name that really reflects the nature of this fragrance. This definitely isn’t your typical cuddly and comforting vanilla goodness. The perfume opens with a juniper facet that gives it a cool, aromatic vibe that goes deep inside your nose. Rosemary adds a green, herbaceous layer on top while grapefruit brings its tangy, bittery flavor with a hint of sweat to the scene. Cardamom with its cold spiciness and slightly nutty tones lead to stem-like aroma of angelica. Vanilla is the unusual player in Vanille Paradoxe as instead of being soft & sweet it is more dark, oriental – like an entire vanilla pod. It’s rich and quite concentrated yet not overpowering smell. Juniper gives it a funny feeling of gin fizziness. I have to admit that I quite like it. It’s different.
This vanilla impression blends with the smell of roses for an intriguing concoction that is meant to evoke ‘Bourbon roses’ that are used to form natural green borders of vanilla fields at Reunion Island. Later on Vanille Paradoxe gains more heft from cedarwood and afterwards a musky cloud follows and this one is like a whipped cream. Again not fully edible but giving you the appetite for something sweet. Generous dose of Ambroxan makes it more resinous, balsamic and warm. It’s cuddly.
These two new fragrances, developed by Michel Almairac and Delphine Labeau respectively show that Les Parfums de Rosine has made a move in a new direction. More modern compositions mean more appeal towards younger consumer. They also updated their classic bottle by covering it with vibrantly colored lacquer. Such pop of color attracts attention and looks great on photos. Each of Les Extravagants is an eau de parfum. The flacon size is 100 ml. Which one would you choose?