Dragon Breath, Memo Winter Palace

If, like me, you’re a fan of fantasy novels filled with magic and mystical creatures, there’s a high chance that you’ve already met more than one dragon hiding between the inked pages of a book. Some were small, some big, some were fierce & dangerous while others were friendly and helpful. But dragons are also essential part of Chinese folklore which started way before any fantastic story was written. I wonder if they really existed. Inspired by China, dragons and spring Memo Paris tells their own tale of a dragon and its flight of freedom. A scent in which ice meets fire.

Memo Winter Palace unveils like the first rays of the summer morning. The composition opens with a delicious scent of sweet orange and it instantly triggers some drooling as well. It’s an optimistic & realistic aroma that within couple of minutes becomes more saturated and rich. It even develops an oily facet that makes you think of smelling orange essential oil in a pure state. After a while the sweetness is suppressed by bergamot. The latter one is responsible for introducing more tangy sensation to the scent and this actually makes it even more delicious and refreshing.

This citrus symphony in the opening does not end with just orange and bergamot playing on the skin. Later on grapefruit accord surfaces. When that happens Winter Palace becomes slightly bitter. In addition to that there’s a new fruity-powdery sensation coming from white albedo part of the citrus. There was also a short moment when grapefruit was slightly sweaty but it was a quickly vanishing impression that I didn’t find bothersome. Generally speaking all of these notes so far were very energetic and playful. As a new day wakes up when the sun rises, this perfume will wake you up too.


After around an hour, sometimes earlier, sometimes later depending on the weather conditions, Winter Palace starts to change its form. Until now it was a rather chilly fragrance with a cooling effect. However there comes a moment when it gradually becomes warmer. Exactly like summer morning, when it’s still cold but you know that in a couple of hours it will be delightfully warm. That’s exactly what happens when red tea accord joins the composition. It spreads a pleasantly warm and fragrant aura around the wearer. It smells like a steaming cup of your favorite rooibos tea.

Its warm & homely scent is mixed with mate tea which makes it taste slightly more tart and characteristic. At the base of Memo Winter Palace there’s a solid base. Resinous benzoin entwines with more smoky labdanum. Caramelized-like styrax plays with rich, oriental vanilla and they both improve each other’s scent. Tolu balsam is ‘flavored’ with buttery-aromatic tonka and highlights some of the musky tones. Despite of so many powerful ingredients they are beautifully woven into the fragrance. It’s a masterful finale with a perfect balance as none of these lead the way.

Winter Palace by Memo is a fragrance that I wanted to try since I read about it and I absolutely wasn’t disappointed after wearing it. It’s an interesting perfume of contrast between cold and warm elements. Perfumer Alienor Massenet managed to compose something that feels summery but at the same time could easily work during other seasons as well. My favorite part was when red tea accord emerged. Winter Palace eau de parfum joins Art Land Collection and is available in 75 ml bottle featuring a beautiful chinese dragon graphic. A majestic creature for a majestic perfume.

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8 thoughts on “Dragon Breath, Memo Winter Palace

  1. MMKinPA says:

    I received a sample of this in a May new releases set from Luckyscent. Easily my favorite of the bunch. If they release it in the 10ml travel spray I might be really tempted, or if someone hosts a split, I would love to have a bit of this in my collection. Lovely review as always!

    • lucasai says:

      So Winter Palace has arrived in the States as well. Great! I think it’s a brilliant fragrance for a year-round use but especially great for the summer.
      I do hope so too that they’ll make a 10 ml travel spray or a set of 3 of them.

  2. Undina says:

    I’m interested! Memo makes perfumes that I rather like but I don’t get exposed to then enough to decide on buying one of them. Yet 🙂

    The description of this cold-warm part for some reason reminded me of what I thought about Ambra Calabria, though, of course, these two might have nothing in common, especially since it’s your description of one perfume and my impression of another 🙂

    • lucasai says:

      Glad you are. If I decide to split a bottle I’ll be happy to reserve some for you.

      You are right. Ambra Calabria is a nice comparison although in this one it was a contrast between bergamot and amber while in Winter Palace it’s orange and red tea that make this contrast.

  3. gunmetal24 says:

    I have been hearing a bit about this release. Red tea accord sounds very intriguing. I have already ordered a sample together with Hiram Green’s Lustre.

  4. […] or a decant but almost a full bottle. I’ve been thinking about Winter Palace since I reviewed it and this was my chance to invite a dragon to my house. We agreed on the swap. Fast forward a […]

  5. […] or a decant but almost a full bottle. I’ve been thinking about Winter Palace since I reviewed it and this was my chance to invite a dragon to my house. We agreed on the swap. Fast forward a […]

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