“Rose is a rose is a rose is a rose” goes a popular quotation from 1913 poem “Sacred Emily” written by Gertrude Stein. A statement of the law of identity which expresses the fact that just using the name of a thing invokes emotions and imagery associated with it on its own. Though when it comes to perfume it’s not as simple as that. For there are many different perfume and many different roses. Some are sheer and innocent, others are straightforward others are oriental or they come from the abstract world. Recently a new rose has bloomed, and comes from the garden of Hiram Green.
Lustre is a rose fragrance from the very beginning. The composition opens with a juicy and acidic, slightly astringent citrus blend that quickly reaches your sinuses and wakes them up. Then comes the rose. At first impression it’s fresh, still tinted with a citrus melange of oranges, lemons and bergamots. It unveils slowly, lazily, like anyone who just woke up but doesn’t want to get out of bed immediately. Short wait later floral facet emerges – warm and sweet, with a morning dew freshness. The scent is full bodied and lush, rose petals bathing in the rays of the sun that has just woke up.
On my skin this perfume develops an opulent bouquet of rose that feels rich and lush, like the best rose marmelade you can get. Despite the bright red color saturation of petals, Hiram Green Lustre stands definitely closer to a fresh end of the spectrum and is not oriental in any bit. Actually later on I seem to detect a verdant backnote of leaves and floral stems. At some point it even gets kind of minty, or more like geranium actually. After some time Lustre becomes more woody but never abandoning its rose identity. It just feels a bit more substantive and dry in the background.
The scent brings to mind wooden beads scented with rose (advertised as made of rosewood) I remember from my childhood. More subtlety slips into the structure of Lustre along with an iris accord. Silky smooth texture with a powdery finish make this fragrance slightly more feminine, like a boudoir filled with scents of cosmetics powder and lipstick. Further into fragrance development you might detect a little bit of frankincense which introduces some transparent & spiritual smokiness to this creation. There’s something magical about this perfume as it radiates with inner glow.
Purity and innocence are other words that come to mind while smelling Lustre from Hiram Green. In the fragrance world where more and more compositions seem to be overdone it is good to go back to the roots and create something more basic. The brand also draws a beautiful image to go with the perfume: “Imagine the sun rising over seemingly endless fields of roses in the heartland of Bulgaria. Soft, golden rays of sunlight tenderly encourage the delicate pink petals to release their delightful scent. […] It is a luminous and fresh perfume that adds sheen to your day. Life is golden.”
Looking back at previous releases from Hiram Green, Lustre creates the feeling of being the most simple among 8 fragrances that he created so far. A soliflore dedicated to Bulgarian rose sounds minimalistic. But there’s more to this than meets the eye so don’t be deceived. It’s a gorgeous rose to be worn on spring and summer days or any time you want to improve your mood. As it is the case of all Hiram Green compositions – Lustre is entirely natural and it lasts for hours, lingering quietly on the skin. Lustre is an eau de parfum and comes in 50 ml bottles of now slightly updated design.