At the current state of perfume world, where even niche seems to be making a step towards mass market, it is a real virtue to remain true to yourself. Every year more and more fragrances are being launched, the market is becoming oversaturated and everyone, niche or not, wants a decent piece from this cake. I am sceptical for any perfume house that feels the need to hurl 5-10-15 ‘novelties’ at the consumer. Even if more than one perfumer worked on them, I don’t think all can keep the same, good quality level. Some brands accustomed us to their slower tempo and high standards. That’s why it was a bit surprising that Puredistance announced one more perfume for 2019. It’s been 2 years since Jan Ewoud Vos had an idea for this fragrance. Today it is finally ready to be shown.
In spite of the fact that there are some citrus accords mentioned by the brand, such as green mandarin or bergamot, I don’t get much freshness at the top of the composition. Pink pepper is the one that appears almost immediately after Gold touches my skin. It’s an aromatic explosion of spiciness that fills the air around the wearer. It’s powerful and a bit pungent initially but it calms down after a minute or two. My nose finds this pink pepper note to be dry, cold & metallic and it seems to be vibrating and oscillating in a specific way that lets it go deep to the sinuses. It’s interesting and quite unique. Clove soon joins in, adding spiciness of a different kind, more dusty and warm. Normally I find both these spices to be rather prickly but here they have refined smoothness.
If you happen to be very focused while enjoying Puredistance Gold you might be able to detect a small herbal glimpse of rosemary or something zesty, reminiscent of citrus. On my skin however they play a secondary role and I didn’t focus on neither. After a while the scent of pepper & clove becomes rounder and rounder, slowly and seamlessly transitioning into something more resinous. When labdanum appears around me, the perfume becomes richer in a blink. It gets darker at the same time but that only reveals a mysterious shine that emanates from the aura spread by Gold. It’s like a lustre of an ink before it sinks into a paper page or like dimmed lights at the restaurant – they only add to the atmosphere of the place, making it more glamourous and intimate in a way.
Addition of cinnamon adds a pleasant tingling when you smell the perfume. Its spiciness is mild and warm, with a lot of sensuality to it. In many cases when I smell this ingredient in a perfume I’m more often reminded of a ground cinnamon rather than a stick. In case of this new fragrance it’s the same. Gold uses cinnamon in a powdery & dusty way. Thanks to a specific entourage created by other elements it does seem to have a delicate sparkle to it – like glittery particles that shimmer in the light. It’s an elegant shine – glamorous and alluring at once. In the background of the scent the floral tones of oriental jasmine mingle with a geranium accord in an unstoppable dance. The first one is more fatty, buttery instead of indolic while the latter is almost like a rose incognito, but more crisp.
For a few hours Puredistance Gold was sinking into the pores of my skin, making slow but steady movements. Every now and then my nose would catch a scented cloud floating around me and it would smell slightly different each time. Foundation of this fragrance is composed of a number of resins, which, just like building blocks, provide a solid base to the scent. On my skin myrrh makes that one step ahead first. I’m not fond of myrrh in general but in Gold it’s woven together with other essences in a pretty way. Nevertheless it marks its presence with a combination of sweet, salty, balmy and burnt nuances. Later on benzoin adds a gold and luscious, almost caramelized facet. Styrax for some reason adds sort of a grainy texture to the scent. It gets quite delicious.
Under the layers of balms lies a vanilla accord, waiting to be eventually discovered. It has a nice, moderate sweetness which does seem more dense than your average vanilla. Its character is more oriental, resiny – like a fully dried black pod glossy from the oil oozing from inside of it. Tonka bean makes the base smooth and creamy and even thought there’s a bit of castoreum that adds a tad of animalic vibe, Gold still feels very posh and refined. At this particular stage this new Puredistance feels plush and fluffy, like a fuzzy fleece blanket. Patchouli adds some aromatic qualities to the drydown with a bit of earthy elements. In my opinion it also accentuates the individuality of different layers and gives Gold a multi-dimensional effect. Vetiver completes this fragrance creation.
Gold by Puredistance is a masterfully composed perfume. It has an intricate & complex style yet it feels like you can fully understand it when you wear it. It’s a sensual fragrance with undeniable charm and a mysteriously seductive energy on the skin. This composition has the power but prefers to stimulate your senses in a soft & gentle way. Even though Puredistance Gold represents an oriental family, its aura is supple. To me it’s like an arabesque painting – the perfume is an invisible brush while your skin is the canvas. Vines of scent entwine your body and become one with it. Swirls of divine goodness. Perfumer Antoine Lie gave a real soul to the fruit of his work. Gold contains 36% of perfume oil and it’s available in usual formats of 17.5 ml, 60 ml and 100 ml.