With the number of new perfume releases that are being issued each year it’s quite easy to miss out on something, especially if it’s a lesser known brand. Sometimes I wonder how many gems have slipped away from me in that way, unsniffed. I probably would not have heard about Noeme if it wasn’t for my dear friends from Quality Missala. They added this house to their portfolio at the end of 2019 and they kindly sent me samples of all 5 compositions that make their current range.
Atitlan opens with a creamy and kind of lactonic note of ylang-ylang. Right from the start this perfume emanates with a lot of warmth and happiness, bringing to mind memories of the last summer. After only a couple of minutes mimosa joins the composition adding a broad palette of impressions. It introduces the element of sweet pollen, of floral pom-poms in a yellow color and a gorgeous powdery feeling. I think Undina would enjoy this one a lot. A little bit later ambery tones add even more solar brightness to the scent. This helps mimosa to stand out in a gorgeous way in this perfume. This part lasts on the skin for some time and stays rather linear while it’s around. Then the drydown comes, bringing a fluffy softness of musk, a milk-flavoured vanilla that pairs well with mimosa. There are also some blond woods notes for more substantivity. Additional notes include patchouli and salicylate.
Naica is more of a masculine scent if you ask me. This composition starts with a metallic sound of pink pepper, which has that interesting effect of vibrating spiciness. It is paired with the acidity of grapefruit but it mellows quickly, unleashing more zesty aspect of the peel and some juiciness of its yellow flesh. Interesting addition among the top notes is clove, which gives off a specific, warm spiciness. A bit like a gingerbread but it remains quite fresh. Heart of this composition is constructed around lavender. This one has a nice floral bouquet with nuances of herbal and green. Underneath there’s also a layer of geranium which adds a crispy and dewy back note. It’s also a bit minty. Cedarwood gives more manly vibe here as well. In the base there’s a beautiful and resinous accord of benzoin. Walking along it are oakmoss and patchouli. Both are a bit darker, chypre-like and adding more character.
Among the three Noeme fragrances that I’m presenting in this post Divin Part would be the simplest and most minimalistic, but no less beautiful. Maybe for a minute or two there’s a glimpse of ylang-ylang in the opening but it’s so hard to notice that I can as well pretend it’s not there. On my skin it’s iris that plays a lead role of this scented performance. What melts my heart when I smell it is the fact that orris is present here in almost all of its forms of existence. At first it exudes a fatty, buttery smell which later on evolves, becomes damp & rooty – even having that wet concrete moment. It’s also powdery, in a more cosmetic way at first, then it’s more like talcum. It cam be also a bit carroty, finally there are floral bits that resemble violets, just more waxy & silky. The purpose of this perfume is fulfilled with white musks. Divin Part was meant to be a tour around orris accord. No other distractions.
All in all I’m glad I could try fragrances from Noeme. I haven’t seen them before at any of the perfume fairs so it’s quite unlikely I would have discovered this brand by myself. That’s why it’s good to have someone in the perfume world who can tell you that you should try this or that. I was wondering who’s a perfumer behind these fragrances. In several sources information was not disclosed but I finally found that it’s Majda Bekkali (who also has her own brand). Have you ever heard of Noeme before? Which of the three above could become your favourite?