When I was in high school, physics was the toughest subject for me to learn. I could blame it on my junior high teacher who couldn’t handle a group of 30 hyperactive teens but I just think physics was never my thing. I was able to secure a good grade on my graduation diploma thanks to the fact that we’ve been doing optics for the entire final term. Prisms and lenses saved me. To this day I remember that you can split white light into a spectrum of all colors. This duality of light, of how you can obtain vivid colors from something ‘colorless’ is a bit like magic. With their newest fragrance Atelier des Ors explores the purity and positivity of white but also invites us to live colorfully.
The feeling I have while wearing Blanc Polychrome is similar to how it feels on one of those lazy summer mornings when the alarm clock is not set, you stay in bed longer than usual and get up only because too much sunlight started filtering through the curtains. You feel blissful & so does this perfume. It unfolds peacefully, revealing a refreshing note of mandarin. Its happy juiciness feels warm, even slightly powdery – but mouth-watering most of all. The solar energy of the opening gains a yellow tinge and some zing thanks to lemon which adds a lovely citric tang to the composition. Fizzy and playful describe it best, it’s like a glass of a sparkling lemonade on a hot day.
After a couple of minutes the refreshing citrus cocktail starts to become more fruity but in a rather unusual way. Blanc Polychrome gets enveloped by a sheer pink cloud with some streaks of red and green. Enter rhubarb – it belongs to the group of those underrated notes in perfumery. Just a quick thought about it brings spring/summer to my mind. Here in Poland during the season its an essential flavor that you’ll find in many refreshing beverages, compotes & sweet pastries. In new Atelier des Ors rhubarb is not super prominent but its tartness gives a pleasant twist to the perfume and provides a counterpart that perfectly balances the citrusy sweetness, making it more interesting.
Depending on how ripe it is, rhubarb can be green, pink or red – usually it’s a combination of all 3. But it’s the green element that is continued in the heart of Atelier des Ors Blanc Polychrome. Green shade becomes deeper and intensifies over time. The perfume takes us to the South of France and draws the image of me standing in the middle of the orange grove. Orange tree leaves rustle in the wind, carrying a green, slightly vegetal and dusty scent of petitgrain. Then there’s jasmine – floral, very summery and light one. It has a warm & sunny aura to it. Over time fig leaf introduces a sappy, milky facet. Its vegetal, creamy character feels very Mediterranean to me.
Blanc Polychrome is a kind of fragrance in which any changes happen smoothly, transitions are seamless. There are no drastic cuts in it. For some time I did not observe many changes in the development. I could still smell the different essences – they kept playing on my skin, only their proportions were slightly changing. Then, 2-3 hours later, a slightly dry, herbaceous & tad floral lavender joined. A breath of Provence. The warmth of the note was step by step replaced by luminous, slightly balsamic Ambroxan accord. In the official pyramid you can find moss but I didn’t notice its presence on my skin. Musk gives Blanc Polychrome a fluffy, whipped cream finish. It’s delightful.
As you could already notice from some of my previous reviews, I’m a fan of Atelier des Ors and their range. I think that Marie Salamagne, a perfumer who works with Jean-Philippe Clermont, did especially well with the lighter fragrances. And since I like nuanced but lighter compositions for the summer I am not surprised that I enjoy Blanc Polychrome so much. It slightly reminds me of Nuda Veritas from their White Collection or of California Reverie by Van Cleef & Arpels. The presentation is simply stunning – the bottle has a shiny golden cap while flakes of gold dance in a completely transparent perfume liquid. New eau de parfum from Atelier des Ors is available in 100 ml bottles.