Smell you soon (I hope)

Under normal circumstances two weeks ago I would have travelled to the West and above the Alps to spend a magnificent weekend in Florence, Italy. There, during Pitti Fragranze, I would’ve had a chance to smell my way through a few dozens, if not a hundret of new perfume releases. We all know why it just didn’t come to be this year and why I had to stay at home, just like many other people who love frangrances as much as you or me. I miss Esxence and Pitti for obvious reasons – I can’t try as many new scents as I’d like to, I can’t meet my friends, both writers and brand owners, perfumers. Finally I can’t be in Italy, even if it were just for 2-3 days, to enjoy their delicious cuisine along with a glass of prosecco or aperol spritz. But those good days will come back, won’t they?

At times of global pandemy one can wonder how niche perfumery will deal with this new and very difficult state. I was thinking that brands might postpone their new launches & wait for better times since without these exhibitions it must be harder to bring same level of buzz & attention to the new compositions. And while I have an impression that niche brands have slowed down due to Covid-19, many have already adapted and present the fruit of their work to the public with the help of social media platforms. Of course it has less splendour than a special spotlight at the stand in Milan or Florence but curiosity of ‘hungry’ perfume fans eventually wins. I’m thankful to any brand who reached out to me during these difficult times. Without them I would write even less…

There’s a bunch of new or soon-to-be-released fragrances that I’m really looking forward to trying. Let me share a couple of them with you – maybe we’ll be together in the feeling of excitement?

Over the years we all got accustomed to a slow-paced creation process at Puredistance and that our waiting will be rewarded with something luxurious and of highest quality. Announced for October please be introduced to Rubikona – this perfume, with a name resulting from the junction of words ruby and icon, will be an 11th composition in brand’s portfolio. For a second time Jan Ewoud Vos invited Cecile Zarokian (Sheiduna, 2016) to collaborate. This will be a spicy floral, 28% perfume.

I like Gallivant but I know some of you don’t. However there’s always a but to a but. Have you ever heard of the city of Bukhara? Worry not, neither have it. It’s somewhere in Uzbekistan and Nick Steward decided this will be another location to pinpoint on the map of his fragrant journeys. My way to convince you to try it? It’s an iris. Orris! Hello! By perfumer Ralf Schwieger at that. I love Iris Nazarena he composed for Aedes. I know Gallivant has different easthetics but I think it’ll be fab.

In my opinion Perris Monte Carlo is one of those brands that aren’t very much spoken of which is totally unfair because they make great perfume. Some time ago I was captivated by Mimosa Tanneron which I long to try. I know it’s the first day of astronomical autumn today but why can’t I have some yellow cheer all year round? Dedicated to pom-pom flowers that grow around Grasse, this watercolor-like flower is now interpreted by Jean-Claude Ellena, a master of watery scents.

More iris? But of course! Is there such thing as enough iris for me? To be honest I rarely get excited by the releases in the mainstream perfume segment these days. Same goes for the more exclusive boutique lines from big brands. This time my interest was tickled when I read about Iris Torrefie from Guerlain, joining Art et la Matiere line. Orris with coffee? This could either go super right or super wrong. I signed up for a decant so I hope to make my own judgements soon.

Listen, I know what you might think but I’m not a real devotee of Memo. It just happens that I like a few fragrances from the brand. I actually find Italian Leather and Winter Palace to be the only 2 that would fit in my collection. New in Art Land collection is Odeon, named after Parisian theatre. Blend of rose, candied date, tonka and sandalwood sounds promising. There’s also Sintra, also new, with a Morrocan tiles motif on the bottle – but it’s supposed to smell like marshmallow, so not for me.

Are there any fragrances you’re waiting for to smell? Or maybe any of these 5 sounds interesting?

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23 thoughts on “Smell you soon (I hope)

  1. Just smelled the new Guerlain, as I am a huge iris lover, but wasn’t convinced. Curious to smell the new Gallivant! Honestly I don’t mind the slower pace of perfume launches, it is so hard to keep up with everything new and take your time to really get to know scents.

  2. matty1649 says:

    I’m a huge Guerlain fan.I’ll have to try to get a sniff of this

  3. MMKinPA says:

    I don’t expect to sniff any of these any time soon – without travel I don’t have access to boutiques and I’m not buying decants or samples at the moment. Intrigued by the Guerlain, also the Memo and Perris releases. Someday!!

  4. Undina says:

    I look forward to trying Rubikona: Puredistance is one of the brands whose releases I welcome (and I appreciate that they don’t churn out new perfume every couple of months). Guerlain I’ll try when/if I get a chance and, most likely, will buy a decant from a friendly split if I see it. Memo… If sampling is ever possible again, I’ll try it at some point. But with my “unsuccess” rate with the brand I’m not buying a sample. And Gallivant… probably not, even though I know about that city (I’ve never been to it).

    I hope that out of this awful year we’ll get at least a slowdown in new brands appearing daily. Also, there should be less new releases, I think. Well, at least, I hope.

    • lucasai says:

      It seems that our last triplet has a bottle or at least tried the new Guerlain. I’m also happy to see new Puredistance, even if many seem too feminine on my skin.
      I know you’re not into Memo or Gallivant, you’ll try if someone gives you sample, otherwise you’ll forget about them.

      It seems there are less new brands now. Unless everything happens only for insta influencers and I am not aware.

  5. I’m intrigued by a couple of perfumers whose work I haven’t yet tried: Shawn Maher’s Maher Olfactive and Chatillon Lux, and Jorum Studio. Since I went on a bit of a birthday binge at the end of the summer, I won’t let myself be tempted until Christmas is looming. But I’m also interested in the Zara Emotions collection they did with Jo Malone (the person, not the brand), and if that comes to the US soon, I’ll probably get the discovery set. Speaking of which, I hope more brands issue discovery sets, because in this ongoing pandemic, it’s a good way to try new fragrances.

  6. rickyrebarco says:

    I’m looking forward to Rubikona and Bukhara as well. Anything Puredistance produces is always first rate so that will be first on my ‘to sniff’ list. This Gallivant caught my eye so I hope to try it and JCE”s recent Provence line for Perris Monte Carlo. The PMC is a brand I have not sampled so I want to remedy that this fall.
    I tried the Guerlain Iris Torreife and it didn’t wow me either. As a fellow iris lover, I was hoping to be bowled over, but I wasn’t. I was hoping for a strong coffee note or strong resins and spices at least, but ’twas not to be. I got more of a tea note that didn’t work for me. The sillage and longevity were not there either. Iris Torreife faded pretty quickly on my skin, also a disappointment.
    However, I’ve tried Guerlain Neroli Outrenoir and I love it. The neroli is balanced with great smoky tea and resin notes and it really smells divine on my skin. Outrenoir is very longlasting on my skin and has great projection as well.
    The Memo brand I’ve only tried a couple of times and found the scents too strong for me. I don’t like leather notes much at all, so that eliminates most of the Memo line for me. I tried Memo Inle and liked it pretty well, but I didn’t want to buy it.

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