Two from Masque to Indulge in This Winter

In 2020 due to growing pandemic situation across the world the activity of perfume brands was drastically reduced. I don’t know any numbers or statistics but I have a feeling that the drop could even reach 80%. The biggest loss and saddest thing to accept was the cancelation of Pitti and Esxence, two biggest niche perfume shows. The latter one was rescheduled to April 2021 only to be rescheduled again to June. If you were smart and tech-savvy, you’d move to online promotion. That’s what Masque Milano did and their 2 new perfumes were launched via Google Meet platform.

Ray-Flection begins with a moderately sweet yet delightfully juicy & mouth-watering scent of mandarin orange. Very shortly some aldehydic tones join and lift up the composition making it feel more airy and effervescent. You do feel a little bit of fattiness from these molecules, even a hint of something waxy & slippery but their aerial aspect is prevailing here. Cardamom introduces a bit of a crunchy, roasty spiciness to the backbone of the perfume. Heart of Ray-Flection reveals a floral bouquet in which a pollen sweetness of mimosa flowers whispers tenderly in your ear and gently caresses your face. It’s a pretty smell, a very happy & optimistic one. It is paired with violet leaf – its green color contrasts with the yellowness of the pom-poms. The smell it has is dewy, slightly ozonic and aromatic. Both are wrapped together, almost like a ribbon that ties a bouquet, with a solar accord. On my skin it feels a bit crystalline, lactonic and with a delicate impression of jasmine. While I don’t consider this new creation from Masque to be a challenging scent, the base is the hardest for me to bear. Beeswax becomes quite prominent on my skin and I am not very fond of it. It adds an impression of something too synthetic and artificial, at least to my nose. Then there’s some cedarwood and musk to help the perfume last longer on skin. I believe mimosa lovers should try Ray-Flection, even if only just out of curiosity. To me it stands few steps behind my favorite.

Last year Masque branched out of their main line by introducing Le Donne di Masque, a series of more feminine fragrances composed by female perfumers. I believe first two, Dolceacqua and Petra were already on preview in 2019. This line celebrate 10th anniversary of the brand and the aforementioned two are reinterpretations of Masque first releases. Late in 2020 a third persona was added. Maceleine is a gourmand perfume that goes straight to the point. The wearer is welcomed by a powerful accord of chestnut. The complex identity of the note hides in the fact that it captures the multiple facets of this Parisian delicacy. It’s nutty and at the same time caramelized. A little bit burnt on the outside but soft & perfectly cooked inside. Combined with a generous spoonfull of heavy cream that has been whipped to add some lightness to the concoction. Cumin… there’s not much of it but I get a bit of a specific stench in the background and I associate it with the smell of some of the streets in Paris. Then there’s a lactonic, creamy tuberose that doesn’t overwhelm but rather melts into nut-n-cream feeling. Cypress and geranium add a tad of crunchiness but their verdancy doesn’t stand out in this foody fragrance. Tonka bean amplifies the creamy vibe that Madeleine creates but at least now it’s got that aromatic, rich (yet mild) spiciness that feels like some sprinkles on top of this dessert. The sweetness of vanilla and fluffy clouds of musk complete the perfume. I know it’s got zero calories but how much sugar can your nose take? I think this perfume can be either love or hate, it smells polarizing if you ask me.

I like the idea of an online launch in times of covid. Where the brand founders along with respective perfumer explain the perfume to a selected group of attendees who were sent the samples prior to the event (mine didn’t make it on time so I didn’t attend) but in case of Ray-Flection and Madeleine as much as I have no doubts about quality of both fragrances, because in this field Masque always delivers, neither of them feels a special to me as L’Attesa or Kintsugi. However I am convinced that many fans of the brand will enjoy using one or both of these new scents. Fingers crossed!

Tagged , , , , , , ,

22 thoughts on “Two from Masque to Indulge in This Winter

  1. Jillie says:

    I love to hear about the innovative ways that companies are appealing to their customers while we are enduring the pandemic, and online sniffings and tastings are such a good idea – if only one can get hold of samples before group conferences! I rather fancied a gin fest I saw advertised the other day.

    Although I don’t think either of these two are to my taste, I am pleased to read about them, so thank you Lucas for writing your comprehensive review.

    • lucasai says:

      Yes, it’s good that we have all those online tools that allow friends to stay in touch, chat & see their faces on computers, especially now that we can’t travel or leave our homes. And for brands it’s a way to carry on with their launches.

      I am always happy to share, even if the perfume doesn’t sound appealing.

  2. MMKinPA says:

    I love your reviews even though I may never have the chance to sniff. I have actually never sniffed this brand, and as I am trying not to buy samples anymore, it will probably go on my “someday when I can shop in a big city” list.

  3. Holly says:

    Thank you for yet another beautifully written review!

    I found it quite heartening to read that Masque Milano was able to re-group and launch these two new perfumes in an innovative way. Ray-Flection sounds like something I might like, and Madeleine I might try just out of curiosity.Like MMKinPA, I am currently not buying samples and am looking forward to a time when I can go sniff in person.

  4. rickyrebarco says:

    I want to try Rayflection. I have a 15 ml bottle of Madeline and love it. I’m going to spray some on right now in fact! I bought the 3 small vials of the new feminine perfumers set, Petra, Madeline and whatever the 3d one is. There was an online perfume ‘convention’ in the US called ExScence in December that featured these and discussions from the Masque milano owners and Cecile Zakorian, the perfumer behind Petra. It was a lot of fun and I bought some very nice perfumes.

  5. Undina says:

    Out of all perfumes from the brand that I’ve tested I really like three (as in paid for FBs) and really disliked another two or three, so you can see why I’m not too enthusiastic about new releases from the brand. But I’m mildly curious, so I’ll try them when I get a chance. Thank you for not creating lemmings 🙂

  6. hajusuuri says:

    Thanks for the reviews. If samples of these fell into my lap, I will try them. Actually, I may ask for these samples the next time I order from LuckyScent; no plans yet though.

    • lucasai says:

      The pleasure is all mine. I’m sure you’ll eventually get to try them. Unless you find something more thrilling in the meantime you can of course get these as freebies from LuckyScent 😉

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

<span>%d</span> bloggers like this: