Floral Duality, Two New from Rosine

Sometimes people argue how much art is there in perfumery but something what you really can’t argue about is the fact that there’s a whole lot of science behind fragrances. After all the ingredients used by perfumers are chemical compounds with formulas that have been determined by scientists over many years. Some of these scented molecules come from nature. Others have been synthesized in the lab and only mimic that what’s natural (or not). Some materials are so complex that different treatment can yield products that are completely different. Orange flower or rose for example. The latter is explored in the new fragrance duo, Les Roses, by Les Parfums de Rosine.

If you treat freshly picked rose flowers to hydrodistillation (distillation with water vapor) you will obtain rose essence. This is highlighted in Rose par Essence. This delicate perfume starts with muted citrus impressions of lemon & bergamot. On my skin they feel slightly astringent and after 2 minutes it starts to develop an aromatic, kind of minty back note. This feeling grows stronger after a while and floral tones joins the herbal note. Blue chamomile creates this warm herby & flowery sensation that despite being warm has a metallic edge to it. Turkish rose essence blooms in the heart of Rose par Essence. It gives off a lush bouquet of aromas that feels pure, clean, in an “innocent” kind of way. There’s a lot of green freshness of flower stems to this perfume. It’s not very intense, on the contrary – it feels relatively light and transparent. The drydown warms up again offering some ambroxan (it smells a little bit like wet concrete in the sun). There’s also soft musk lurking underneath a more substantive woody note of sandalwood. The brand says this perfume is an apotheosis of rose but I wouldn’t glorify it as much. It’s okay though.

If you let rose flowers macerate (soak, then extract) with organic solvent, the process will result in obtaining rose absolute. Rose Absolument focuses on that material and its characteristic facets. It starts in a much richer and more saturated way compared to Rose par Essence. Crispness of geranium marries with a resinous character of elemi and this leads to a beautifully blended accord that has just the right amount of sweetness, some faint but pleasantly noticeable aromatics and a nice density. Turkish rose absolute comes next and adds a dark red tint to the blend. It’s more bold, more dramatic and way prettier to my nose. It’s got a heft to it. Osmanthus gives a nice twist to the perfume by lifting it up and making it less overpowering. On the other hand honey makes it more oriental and carnal. I knew the brand doesn’t list oud but I find Rose Absolument to be a kind of perfume that could be easily paired with this Middle-Eastern ingredient. The fragrance dries down to smoky-n-sweet labdanum note blended with earthy patchouli and parched papyrus. It feels rounded and each element has a moment to shine through.

Both Rose par Essence and Rose Absolument are well-composed fragrances from the perfumer Serge de Oliveira. I have to admit that none of them stole my heart but the perfume in black bottle would be a preferred one for me if I were to determine which one I like more. I also like the idea that Les Parfums de Rosine decided to explore the duality of a rose flower, although I think this has been already done before. Correct me if I’m wrong. Both of them are concentrated at eau de parfum level and are available in two sizes, 50ml and 100 ml. The brand gives you an idea to wear them separately, or to create your own mix by layering them with each other or with any Rosine perfume.

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8 thoughts on “Floral Duality, Two New from Rosine

  1. Jillie says:

    I haven’t yet been captivated by a Rosine perfume, and I suspect these two are not to my taste, but I do like to read your reviews.

    Couldn’t help remembering Annick Goutal’s Rose Absolue, which was “absolutely” my sort of rose, as it smelled just like rose absolue essential oil. I suspect the current formulation will not be the same, so I won’t seek to try it again.

    • lucasai says:

      Ah, the glory of the old fragrances that have been stripped off their best assets by IFRA and EU regulations, those fragrances will never be the same again.

      Do you still have that Goutal?

      • Jillie says:

        I think I might …. but I will have to find it amongst all the piles of things I have stuffed into cupboards since moving here! Sadly life keeps getting in the way, so I have not been able to get started on this big job, but I really need to find my old perfumes!

  2. rickyrebarco says:

    I generally love the Parfums de Rosine house and I own a few of their perfumes. I have been wanting to try these two special roses. I think I would like the one in the black bottle better also. I’m going to sample them soon. I recently tried 3 others from the PdR more expensive offerings and really disliked all of them- Parfums de Rosine Blue Abyss (a solid opaque dark blue bottle- been there done that marine fragrance), Bois Fuchsia (fuchsia opaque bottle- a weak sister rose with raspberry notes) and Vanille Paradoxe, which comes in a marigold colored opaque bottle. No joy with that one either. I’m sticking to the regular Parfums de Rosine line and these 2 Roses in black and white. Great reviews as always!

    • lucasai says:

      It’s good that the brand is your cup of tea in general.
      I have tried these 4 fragrances that you mention and quite liked Bleu Abysse, although it wasn’t an innovative marinic incense. I didn’t care much for the other three.
      Hopefully one of these 2 new ones will be to your liking.

  3. Undina says:

    I like this brand and plan to revisit their classic perfumes to see if I want to buy any of them (currently I have only Rose d’Amour but it’s one of my top… definitely 20. But maybe even higher. So, I’m interested in these two. I wish this brand was more accessible here in the US.

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