Monday Quick Sniffs, part 65

Hey, it’s me! Yes, I’m still alive in case you were wondering. The blog hasn’t been doing well lately but it’s not because I have been unwell myself… It’s just not much is happening in the perfume world. Or at least I’m not noticing the stuff going on around. Anyways sampling new fragrances is still a nuisance & it’s difficult to write a new article without test material, you know. But I don’t want to stop writing and I don’t want Chemist in the Bottle to be forgotten in the blogosphere. Hence today, after another month-long break, some scented tidbits that might interest someone.

Eau de Minthe joined Diptyque‘s line up of fragrances in 2019 and I remember briefly smelling it at Parisian Galleries Lafayette during one of the steps of perfumery school recruitment process. But it was so fast and there were other more important emotions back then that I didn’t remember the way it smell. Fast forward to 2021 and the chance has arisen. This is not your average refreshing minty cologne for the summer. This is a very herbaceous and green kind of mint that has a certain sharpness & bitterness to it. Geranium note emphasizes the green and stemy facet that simultaneously makes Eau de Minthe crunchy and crisp. Rose Oxide introduced a bit of a rosy accent but most of all it deliveres an ice-cold cut to the fragrance. It’s not brutal but it’s shocking. On the opposite side there’s also a patchouli note that tries to keep the fragrance on the warmer side. This is one unusual concoction, more masculine too – reminiscent of Old Spice… well, kind of.

Those of you who have been reading me for years know that I am fond of the natural fragrances composed by Hiram Green. You’d also know that generally I don’t shy away from weird perfume and in worst case the MQS is the one and only time for me to try something. Quite recently Hiram launched a new creation around vetiver note. Its name – Vetiver – as simple as that. Except there is one big but – me and vetiver come from two different fairytales. I don’t like the word “nuke” but that’s what comes to mind when I smell it. This perfume is a “vetiver for advanced” enthusiasts of the note. The scent is super dry and super aromatic right off the bat, smelling of sun-dried grass, roots, a bit of hay as well. It’s earthy and woody with a lot of richness to it. Maybe it’s the mix of vetiver from Haiti and from Java that works this way but it smells multidimensional to me. Neither citrus not ginger stand out to me in the opening phase but I think they may contribute to the stronger perception of vetiver itself? I kind of see ginger working that way. Cedarwood and patchouli add to the earthy woodiness of Hiram Green Vetiver. There’s raw wood, some wood shavings and all the carpentry stuff going on. Vetiver fans will be enamored with latest from Hiram. For me it’s too much as at times it gets too tarry or “meaty” on me.

I still remember when the brand named Une Nuit a Bali debuted at one of the perfume exhibitions in Italy. Years have passed and the brand has grown stronger (at least that’s what I think it is when you introduce more fragrances regularly). Today this perfume house is called Une Nuit Nomade and today I’m exploring their Jardins de Misfah. Well, this is a gorgeous floriental fragrance. Maybe not very innovatived but no less pretty because of that. The opening offers a mild spicy blend of cardamom and nutmeg that feel crunchy, a bit tingly and kind of dry. But this first impression is fleeting as the perfume quickly proceeds to the heart notes. Here a lavish date accord is revealed and the way it smells makes my mouth water in an instant. It has a delightful sweetness served in an oriental style. It’s mild and inoffensive – perhaps that’s what makes it so appealing. Coupled with rose absolute and rose essence for a deep and luxurious experience of immersing yourself in the pool filled with bright red floral petals. Saffron adds a golden glow to the rose – it’s like a nectar, a honey-like substance that envelops the flower and make it smell even more divine. A hint of almond in the base with its powdery finish gives an elegant gourmand facet worthy of a royalty.

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12 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 65

  1. Jillie says:

    It’s hard to keep a blog going with all that has been happening in the world. It’s great to read you today.

    I am attracted to Jardins de Misfah because of the rose notes, but am slightly wary of the sweetness. I love certain vetivers but am not keen on others, probably cos of that tarry element that you mention; I once had a little bottle of the essential oil and as it got older the vetiver grew thicker and it both smelled and looked like tar – it wouldn’t come out of the bottle.

    Eau de Minthe sounds pretty perfect for our hot weather. I shall have to track down my old bottle of Geurlain’s AA Herba Fresca for my mint hit.

    • lucasai says:

      Yes it is, but I’m still trying.

      I could pass my sample to you if you’d like to try Jardins de Misfah.

      I think you might like Eau de Minthe but Herba Fresca is definitely a more budget choice and also a nice fragrance.

  2. cynthia3403 says:

    I recently sampled Jardins de Misfah and thought it was really beautiful!

  3. Heya Lucasz,
    I’m a fan of Eau de Menthe. It’s so unusual and weird but remains totally wearable for me.
    The HG is interesting because you and Tara over at A Bottled Rose write about it so differently. Can’t wait to get my sniff on it. I’ve got Memory Motel from the Un Nuit Nomade crew, super weird but lovely so you’ve piqued my interest.
    Nice to see you’re still alive.
    Portia xx

    • lucasai says:

      Eau de Minthe is a nice fragrance, perhaps the most desired in the summer heat.

      I wonder what you’d think of Hiram’s Vetiver.

      I haven’t tried the more recent ones from Une Nuit Nomade. I’ll remedy that at some point.

  4. Undina says:

    Let’s hope at least perfume-sampling part of life goes back to kind of normal before you loose interest in blogging 😉

    The first time I smelled Eau de Minthe I wasn’t too impressed… and now I think that I would probably like to get some to wear… I wouldn’t mind buying a 30 ml bottle (or smaller) if they were to release it.

    I will try that new HG eventually, but I don’t hope for much: while I don’t mind vetiver, all-natural perfumes don’t work that great for me.

    I’ve never heard about the third brand, but I might try to get a sample if I see it at one of the decanter sites (yep, I’m back to buying samples 😉 ).

    • lucasai says:

      I hope for that too!

      About Eau de Minthe, you might try to look around for that 10 ml travel vial. I have one of Eau Capitale from NST swapmeet and also got one as a gift with purchase when buying NEZ and a perfume for split at Galilu in Warsaw.

      I know you are partial to natural fragrance but for me Hiram ones work really well. And April Aromatics too.

      I can set aside my sample from Une Nuit Nomade for you. We can think of package exchange. Is post service more or less working well in US now?

  5. Jane says:

    Hello! I have been drawn to your blog as I was looking for reviews of a specific April Aromatics fragrance, but have ended up deep-diving into your archives and thoroughly enjoyed reading your reviews. Please keep up the blogging, as I have so enjoyed your writing. I would say I am not a newbie but not a total connoisseur to the niche fragrance world (maybe 7 years?) and love reading and learning and absorbing all there is to know about this vast and interesting world! Blessings!

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