I love how a simple photograph can bring back all the memories and remind us of places we’ve visited less or more recently. I kind of regret that in the digitalized world we have less and less printed photos – instead we keep them on our computers or phones. But if one of these were to crash, we could simply lose all these pictures in an instant. I like how Olfactive Studio captures the mood of the ‘random’ photos in a perfume. Last year in Milan there was a preview of something exciting which is now seeing the light of the day. It was well worth the wait to tell you about it.
Iris Shot begins with a sparkling aroma of pink pepper. It creates a fizzy kind of spiciness that hits the nose with a mild wave of scent that is built of several layers. One is more spicy, one is slightly dry & earthy while another one has a warming and kind of cuddly feel to it. After several minutes the temperature of this perfume rises when cardamom joins the composition. It’s a different kind of spicy note which gives a more aromatic, crunchy facet with a refined, elegant depth. It also reminds me a bit of the smell of papyrus or an old book. I quite like the way it opens and leads further.
Spicy nuances of Olfactive Studio Iris Shot aren’t in the centre of attention all the time. After 20-30 minutes they start to subside, moving to the background and becoming fainter. That’s when iris aldehyde gets prominent on the skin. Iris aldehyde is a common name for 2-Nonenal (given to it by Givaudan) and is a fragrant molecule of a fatty, powdery smell of iris, with hints of green notes and cucumber. It’s true that thanks to it Iris Shot becomes buttery and super smooth. It develops that delightful sensation of something that melts on top of your skin and creates a silky cocoon.
At the top of the composition there’s also a little bit of freshness – blackcurrant bud adds a facet of juicy green note with element of acidic, ripe berries. But that lasts only for a moment until Iris Shot turns more dense and substantive. Iris concrete, the most precious substance obtained from orris root, gives the new Olfactive Studio composition an extraordinary richness. It’s creamy, buttery, even waxy at times. This perfume is loaded with irones (main constituent of iris & violet smell). I also detected a tiny bit of root and ash in this phase. It’s pure heaven for those who love iris!
Going further Iris Shot from Olfactive Studio develops a sweet, custardy scent that ventures somewhere towards gourmand registers but it’s not quite there yet. Almond note blends in with iris in a seemless way adding a bittersweet, nutty flavor to the fragrance. This action builds up the complexity of the scent and make it more intricate. In my opinion what almond does to Iris Shot is that it amplifies the creaminess of iris while making it more flavorful. Additionally carrot seed introduces a more vegetal facet that still goes well with the iris theme. It adds a bit of lightness too.
At the bottom of the composition lies a solid foundation for Olfactive Studio Iris Shot. The base is composed Virginia cedarwood which makes for a bulky woody note to fix the scent on the skin for longer. Vetiver from Haiti adds an earthy and rooty kind of woodiness. There’s a bit of aromatic notes in there that are reminiscent of grass and warm hay. Ambroxan gives a nice ambery finishing touch to this scent. Dominique Ropion did an excellent job for Celine Verleure’s brand. It surely is a must try for iris lovers. The 100 ml bottle is wrapped in brown leather and there are copper details