Author Archives: lucasai

In Your Eyes, Olfactive Studio Iris Shot

I love how a simple photograph can bring back all the memories and remind us of places we’ve visited less or more recently. I kind of regret that in the digitalized world we have less and less printed photos – instead we keep them on our computers or phones. But if one of these were to crash, we could simply lose all these pictures in an instant. I like how Olfactive Studio captures the mood of the ‘random’ photos in a perfume. Last year in Milan there was a preview of something exciting which is now seeing the light of the day. It was well worth the wait to tell you about it.

Iris Shot begins with a sparkling aroma of pink pepper. It creates a fizzy kind of spiciness that hits the nose with a mild wave of scent that is built of several layers. One is more spicy, one is slightly dry & earthy while another one has a warming and kind of cuddly feel to it. After several minutes the temperature of this perfume rises when cardamom joins the composition. It’s a different kind of spicy note which gives a more aromatic, crunchy facet with a refined, elegant depth. It also reminds me a bit of the smell of papyrus or an old book. I quite like the way it opens and leads further.

Spicy nuances of Olfactive Studio Iris Shot aren’t in the centre of attention all the time. After 20-30 minutes they start to subside, moving to the background and becoming fainter. That’s when iris aldehyde gets prominent on the skin. Iris aldehyde is a common name for 2-Nonenal (given to it by Givaudan) and is a fragrant molecule of a fatty, powdery smell of iris, with hints of green notes and cucumber. It’s true that thanks to it Iris Shot becomes buttery and super smooth. It develops that delightful sensation of something that melts on top of your skin and creates a silky cocoon.

iris-shot

At the top of the composition there’s also a little bit of freshness – blackcurrant bud adds a facet of juicy green note with element of acidic, ripe berries. But that lasts only for a moment until Iris Shot turns more dense and substantive. Iris concrete, the most precious substance obtained from orris root, gives the new Olfactive Studio composition an extraordinary richness. It’s creamy, buttery, even waxy at times. This perfume is loaded with irones (main constituent of iris & violet smell). I also detected a tiny bit of root and ash in this phase. It’s pure heaven for those who love iris!

Going further Iris Shot from Olfactive Studio develops a sweet, custardy scent that ventures somewhere towards gourmand registers but it’s not quite there yet. Almond note blends in with iris in a seemless way adding a bittersweet, nutty flavor to the fragrance. This action builds up the complexity of the scent and make it more intricate. In my opinion what almond does to Iris Shot is that it amplifies the creaminess of iris while making it more flavorful. Additionally carrot seed introduces a more vegetal facet that still goes well with the iris theme. It adds a bit of lightness too.

At the bottom of the composition lies a solid foundation for Olfactive Studio Iris Shot. The base is composed Virginia cedarwood which makes for a bulky woody note to fix the scent on the skin for longer. Vetiver from Haiti adds an earthy and rooty kind of woodiness. There’s a bit of aromatic notes in there that are reminiscent of grass and warm hay. Ambroxan gives a nice ambery finishing touch to this scent. Dominique Ropion did an excellent job for Celine Verleure’s brand. It surely is a must try for iris lovers. The 100 ml bottle is wrapped in brown leather and there are copper details

Tagged , , ,

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 59

There’s been quite a break from MQS lately, so here you have it – first time in 2020!

fm-rose-cuir

Quite an earthquake happened in the perfume land in 2019 when Frederic Malle announced their collaboration with perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. People were curious what this fragrance is going to be like. Rose & Cuir was launched and relatively quickly the perfume has divided the fans because some totally loved it, others didn’t understand the whole buzz. I’m in that 2nd group. On my skin Rose & Cuir starts with a smell of dried peppermint, herbaceous and a bit like a tea. After few minutes the perfume develops a strong geranium facet – green, sappy, crunchy. It’s also slightly mentholated. Later on I could smell something denser and a bit fuzzy but with austere vibe to it. I suppose this perfume simply doesn’t correspond with my skin. I had no expectations but in my opinion the name is highly misleading.

le-passant-ormaie

Ormaie has surprised me in a very positive way with their L’Ivree Bleue, which I’m considering to buy as a birthday gift to myself. After that review the brand was super kind to send me samples of the remaining fragrances in the line up. Le Passant would be one of the more masculine ones there. It begins with herbal tones of lavender and zesty splash of bergamot. These two give the perfume a clean & soapy vibe of a barbershop salon. After a little while lavender takes a central stage with provencal lavender joining in. This time it feels sweeter, tad more floral and kind of honeyed in the back. There’s also something powdery hiding deeper. When vanilla and tonka come to the front Le Passant becomes mellow, sweet & aromatic. I can’t escape the feeling it’s a nod to manly classics like Caron Pour Un Homme. With a contemporary twist.

between-two-trees

Floraiku is a perfume brand that branched out from the creators of Memo. But as much as I like Memo and some of their scents, I haven’t tried any of the Floraiku offerings until now. Hat tip to Undina for sharing some samples with me. Between Two Trees is an interesting scent but it doesn’t call ‘love’ to me. For a relatively long span it’s a story of a grapefruit. At first I smell its yellow rind, a bit waxy and more uplifting and aromatic when you start to shred it. Then there’s the smell of the white part – albedo, which has a specific scent between the peel and the fruit. Finally there’s the juicy sweetness of the pulp. Absolute of mate gives this perfume a Japanese vibe through this tea evocation. The last ingredient listed by the brand is vetiver. Its root gives an earthy, woody and slightly dry finish to the scent. Simultaneously it moves this perfume slightly closer to the masculine area.

Tagged , , , , ,