An ideal birthday perfume

On February 24th I turned 27. It was Friday & I didn’t even celebrate it really. As every Friday I came back home for the weekend and together with my parents we just had a casual evening. We didn’t even have my birthday cake, perhaps because we ate one a week earlier, when my grandma was still at our home for a visit and she just wanted to celebrate before going back.

Presents? I’m not getting big birthday presents from my family for a few years now. They say I’m too old for that. Plus they always have an excuse of not knowing what they could get me. But I got a book and a jazz CD. Ever since I became passionate about fragrance I was always told that I’m never getting perfume from them on any occasion, because I know too much about them & I’m the only one who knows what perfume to choose. I understand the point. But they could always ask.

I wasn’t completely empty-handed after my birthday. Grandma gave me some cash (I bought a fantastic jumper for that money) and I also got some money from mum. But it’s my birthday! I’m getting older (well, we all are) but I wanted my birthday treat. So couple of years ago I decided that every birthday I will treat myself to a new bottle of fragrance. Because I deserve it!

arbole

Year by year it was always a tough decision. There were years when I made a mistake and after realizing I’m not wearing the perfume at all, I sold it to a new, loving home. Good that most of my choices were on point. This year’s choice was particularly hard – as I was quite fond of too many new releases to have an easy task deciding. But how does one decide such thing? Would you simply choose the most expensive one? The one that is hardest to get? Most exclusive one?

At some point I realized that things like that doesn’t matter. I just gradually started narrowing down my list until I finally got the one. The one that I love the most. The one that I know I’m going to wear and that will mean something to me. What did I fall for? Arbolé Arbolé by Hiram Green. An extraordinary all-natural fragrance that on my skin smells nothing like the notes would suggest. I might never be able to analyse it properly and understand why it smells of such lush rose on me.

The flacon has arrived 2 days ago and after unpacking it I realized that the bottle looks smaller yet much, much cuter than on official visuals from the brand. I also got a bunch of samples that I wanted to try, and it seems that among them I have found another instant love that I might be buying (this time for a split) very soon. And so the story goes, a circle of a perfumista life has no beginning and no end. It never stops as there is always another fragrant love waiting to be discovered.

Lesson to learn – don’t doubt yourself when you love something. Get it before it’s too late.

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Molecular flower, Aether Rose Alcane

Perfume enthusiasts often highlight how much they love natural ingredients in their fragrance. At the same time many of them express their negative attitude towards synthetic materials. They admit that they loathe, despise them. I don’t understand these people. And not just because I’m a chemist. If I like the perfume I don’t really care which part was harvested from the field and which was harvested in a process of lab synthesis. It’s the final effect that matters to me.

In last years we could observe the appearance of few new conceptual brands that were happy to admit their perfume is entirely made of synthetic ingredients – such as Nomenclature or Aether. And of course there was Escentric Molecules before them. Even if the concept is odd, the perfume is a perfume, is a perfume, is a perfume… and I want to try it. Aether debuted in 2016 as a new brand from Nicolas Chabot who revived Le Galion. I liked those scents, it’s not forbidden.

Among 6 fragrances I liked Rose Alcane the most. In the line each composition is dedicated to one iconic fragrance molecule & as you probably guessed already – Rose Alcane is a tribute to rose oxide. On my skin this perfume is opening with a tart & zesty smell of grapefruit that becomes watered down quite quickly and is followed by a gentle scent of rose. Aroma of rose had a sparkling, bubbly feeling to it and instantly it gave me an impression of smelling some champagne rosé.

rose-alcane

The smell is uplifting, invigorating. It reminded me of Liquides Imaginaires Dom Rosa. After some time my nose was struck by a sudden metallic vibe. It was cold, tingly and surrealistic. As if someone threw an ice-cold cube of metal into your flute of champagne. Very strange feeling but at the same time Rose Alcane kept my attention awake. Metallic vibe subsides just as suddenly as it appeared. After that happened I was left with a dewy smell of flowers and greenery.

Rose continues to go on until the perfume fades to nothing. It is very pale and sheer. Dewy is a suitable word to describe it as it smells watery on my skin. It also blends with the smell of watered grass or some other water plant, like a bamboo or something. Rose Alcane lasts in this form for some time and before it releases its final breath, it smells to me of dewy apples & pears. It’s very gentle and transparent composition, a rather minimalistic one.

This offering from Aether would probably serve well to those of you who are not yet convinced if rose belongs to their perfumed fairytale or not. If someone is a rose fan, Rose Alcane might not be enough. It’s a good candidate for a perfume refreshment in the summer though, since it’s so light & airy. Shame the only size is 50 ml. A travel, pocket-size spray would be useful from time to time. Rose Alcane was composed by 2 perfumers: Amelie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel.

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