Heart of serenity, La Parfumerie Moderne Belles Rives

While traveling and discovering new places around the world there are many ways of accommodation. You can rent full appartments, stay with local people via Airbnb, use cheap hostels or top class hotels. La Parfumerie Moderne tells stories inspired by luxurious hotels and their history, which is not surprising knowing that Philippe Neirinck, the founder, comes from a family of hoteliers. New launch takes us to Beau Rivage Palace hotel in Lausanne, a place where Albert Cohen wrote Belle du Seigneur. The perfume reflects a silent serenity of the lake of Geneva.

Belles Rives starts with a bergamot essence that is like trying to capture a thunderbolt in a frame of a photograph, it’s so hard to notice. It appears as a zesty flash that is already gone the next time you try to smell it. Subsequently the perfume reveals a magnificent iris accord. The moment bergamot is gone I begin to smell something deliciously buttery. Iris unveils boldly yet gracefully. Texture it provides is very satisfying and it evolves into a multi-dimensional accord. Buttery facet is very rich, you can tell that it’s rich in irone – fragrant molecules responsible for the smell of violet and iris.

This buttered Florentine iris gradually evolves into something even more substantive. It blends with a hint of myrrh. Because of that it becomes more resinous. Splendid thing is that myrrh makes the iris smell even better! It accentuated its best values without making it too heavy or cloying. Plus in the next step there’s also some frankincense that guarantees the balance of notes in Belles Rives in some way. After a while I noticed an apricot-like facet appearing in the 2nd plan of this fragrance. From now on the perfume gets only more and more interesting & my level of attraction rises.

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Apricot sensation becomes a tad more floral after 15 minutes, proving that it was actually osmanthus that created such impression. I truly love osmanthus note for the multiple facets it has. Speaking of which, further into Belles Rives development it begins to smell like a suede. When combined with iris it creates a beautiful fuzzy accord that feels elegant & sophisticated, yet not old-fashioned. It feels warm and embracing, like a blanket. Ideal for a gloomy days of autumn or winter. At some point iris loses a bit of its presence so that other notes can be perceived. It evolves beautifully.

One of them is sambac jasmine. White flower aura it introduces is gently and light as a feather. It really feels like a bunch of petals resting on a plush cushion scented with iris and apricoty-suedy osmanthus. It feels glamorous, maybe a little bit retro at this point but I feel totally attracted to Belles Rives. This quality of iris is like a magnet to me. Drydown reveals a hefty dose of cedar from Texas. Its dryness make it feel a little bit more masculine. Vetiver adds a little bit of earthy rootiness. Newest La Parfumerie Moderne also contains Cosmone®, a powdery & musky molecule from Givaudan.

From the words I’ve written above you can easily tell that Belles Rives from La Parfumerie Moderne is a love for me. This perfume was one of my top things that I sampled during Pitti Fragranze. It’s also one of the most wonderful iris fragrances I’ve smelled so far. I definitely want to add it to my collection. Marc-Antoine Corticchiato worked for over 2 years to master this composition – he nailed it perfectly. Made in eau de parfum concentration it lasts throughout the day and has a nice sillage. Belles Rives comes in a simple 100 ml bottle made of dark green glass. You’ll love it! I know I do!

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Cuddlefluffs

Two weeks ago at NST Angela posted an article about different ways of classifying perfume in your own collection. Instead of going with boring families like citrus, floral & oriental, she would group her fragrance into families such as bombshell, old-fashioned chypre or comfort, to name just a few. She asked if others use their own classification systems. In fact, I didn’t ever pay much attention to categorizing my collection. But I liked the idea so much that it seeded an idea in my head.

I let my creativity run loose and few minutes later I had the idea of a few fragrance families of my own that would reflect the character of my perfume wardrobe. One of them was Pradaholic, being a class that would fit in all perfume Daniela Andrier created for Prada. Second one I named nostalgic, it was reserved for scents that put you in a contemplative mood or cause certain positive memories come back to your head. Surprisingly this class consists of many perfume with iris or rose notes. I described 3rd family as moodlifters. It would feature any fragrance that has the ability to cheer me up when I’m feeling down sometimes. Personally I find citrus, green notes and light floral compositions to have such effect on me, therefore this family would have lots of colognes in it.

However one of my fragrance families seemed more interesting to Angela and others who read her post at NST. I named the last category with a completely new word to me –  cuddlefluffs. Perhaps I should start by explaining that yes, it is a combination of cuddle and fluff. At Now Smell This I wrote that it would be an ideal family for amber and vanilla perfume but after giving it more though I realized it’s much more than that. To me a cuddlefluff by definition would be any perfume that smells soft & gentle. It’s a group of perfumes that envelop and embrace the wearer. A scented equivalent of a thick plush blanket you can wrap around yourself. A perfume that would be like a cat purring with content because you have him or her on your lap and you pet it gently.

That’s a theory, so I’d like to give you a few perfumes that would give you a more clear idea about what I mean by cuddlefluffs: Atelier Cologne Silver Iris & Santal Carmin, Aedes Cierge de Lune, Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114, Jacques Fath Bel Ambre, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir, Masque L’Attesa, Puredistance Sheiduna, Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir, Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Patchouli, Huitieme Art Shermine – to name just a few. Cuddlefluffs seem like ideal perfumes to wear in autumn and winter season. Now that you know more about this gendre I created, what would you add to it? We could build an impressive cuddlefluff database together.

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