Summertime Brightness, Ormaie 28°

It was just a few days ago when the summer solstice marked the beginning of a summer season with the longest day of the year. Isn’t it ironic that no matter how many plans we’d normally have for the summertime, each day from now on will be slightly shorter? But this year is not normal at all and even though the borders of other countries are starting to open up again, many of us will chose to go on vacation locally instead of grand voyages across the world. To make it more enjoyable you should have some great perfume with you & I have another one, from Ormaie, that is just right for that!

28° has a very harmonious opening, serving a beautiful citrus blend. At first I could smell a cheerful lemon note which is way more complex than one could expect. Not only does it smell like a juicy, yellow lemon pulp but you also get a nicely pronounced zestiness coming from the peel. In addition to that there’s also that sort of powdery, muted back note coming from albedo – that white layer that hides right underneath the rind. After a short moment bergamot joins the composition and introduces a bit of lively tanginess with a little hint of green element, same shade as the citrus itself.

It doesn’t take long until the zestiness is balanced by a mouth-watering sweetness of mandarin. The latter brings the most cheer to the fragrance and also on my skin it feels very realistic – as if you just enjoyed a ripe fruit and some juice spilled on your skin. Pink pepper gives a bit of vibrancy. Later on 28° steps on a path adorned with white flowers growing all along the way but this perfume is also a very unusual way to present these powerful floral tones. Ormaie took the most supple elements of each and put them together into a mesmerizing decoration worthy of the most luxurious resorts.

28-degrees

Jasmine sambac doesn’t emanate cloud of indole here, instead it scatters in the air around the wearer an addictive scent that to my nose is a perfect combination of pure floral scent, very airy, with the smell of something breezy, summery. It also has a lovely facet of sea minerals – salty, crystalline, beachy. Tuberose gives Ormaie 28° more richness in this floral phase. It also introduces a creamy sensation that has a little bit of a coconut undertone. But don’t be scared, this milky feeling is very faint. It’s also airy like a mousse. Orange blossom turns this perfume into a solar goodness.

Together with a light touch of rose, orange blossom makes 28° a composition that shimmers with light pink and warm orange reflexes. Actually orange flower becomes the most prominent ingredient in this perfume. I love the bright & luminous character it gives to this Ormaie fragrance. Drydown tones down the flowery notes. There’s a nice sandalwood accord – substantive, with nice weight and more smooth than not. Vanilla makes it rounder and more cosmetic-like, to the point that the scent on my skin reminds me of an expensive sunscreen lotion. There’s also a whiff of immortelle.

No matter how difficult are the times we live in, summer still remains the time to enjoy oneself. And what better way than by gifting yourself with a new fragrance. 28° from Ormaie is an ideal choice if you do like summery scents  but you prefer to stay away from hesperidic compositions. This one is a dreamy, summery floral concoction that is ideal for an evening walk when 28°C outside – that’s actually from where this perfume took its name. I sign up with my name under this idea from the brand. I recently learned that Ormaie fragrances are all natural which makes me like them even more. Together with Les Brumes you have an ultimate perfume dream team. Sounds good?

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3 Scentivisuals From Christele Jacquemin

In these uncertain times in which health and own safety have earned the highest priority status, it is a bit difficult to learn about what’s happening in the perfume world. I discover news about new launches on Facebook or Instagram instead of a charming scenery of Milan and Esxence where these scents would normally debut if it wasn’t for the pandemy. It doesn’t happen often but from time to time brands write to me on their own, asking if I would like to try their fragrances. I take it as a privilege and great honor because to me that means that Chemist in the Bottle is a valuable platform in the scented universe. This time I was approeached by Christele Jacquemin.

meandering-soul

Meandering Soul has a very smoky beginning but at the same time it can be characterised by an incredible purity and transparency. It’s the kind of smokiness you cannot see as the incense turns into ash, it’s on more spiritual level. Or like old wooden walls that have been permeated with a smoke scent over the years. Hinoki wood gives this perfume a touch of mystery, of something that is thrilling and scaring at the same time. Sweet fennel adds an aromatic layer to this fragrance and once you inhale it, it goes deep inside your nose, leaving a powerful impression behind. After some time Meandering Soul becomes darker and starts to remind a licorice note. Black, sweet but not, very specific. The brand lists ylang-ylang and narcissus among the heart notes but I wasn’t able to detect anything creamy or floral. Instead the scent evolved towards a dry & woody cinnamon facet. Eventually the perfume is dominated by tobacco – it feels dense and more chewy, like a pipe tobacco. Stripped off of its golden elements. It pairs very well with the maltol-like smell of caramel. All in all I find this particular composition to be quite meditative which reflects well in its name.

impermanence

Impermanence opens with a nicely warm and slightly aromatic wave. At the very beginning the perfume serves a zesty slice of bergamot that has been spiced up by a tangy-lemony scent of blue ginger. These two together create a pleasantly fresh impression that leads the way to something new just a couple of minutes later. Hinoki needle (reminder: hinoki is a type of cypress) adds a green, slightly oily facet that is related to the fougere family in a way. I like the way it changes the perfume character to something more complex. Rosemary continues the verdant element of Impermanence but it’s also making it more herbaceous, a tad more dry and with a hint of sweaty back note. Then there’s Bulgarian rose, not that opulent but pure and blooming gracefully. Palmarosa – a plant somehow related to ginger, adds a bit of that fresh piquancy. The drydown is rooty and slightly earthly thanks to vetiver and mate absolute gives that characteristic green tea tinge to the composition. It’s quite an appealing concoction that I liked the most among the 3 that I tested.

underworld

Underworld happens to be the most challenging of the fragrances in Christele Jacquemin range. This composition starts with a blast of black pepper that immediately ‘attacks’ your nose with spicy tones that are dry like a sheet of an old parchment. The spiciness it exudes is vibrant and has a metallic sharpness to it but it disappears after a couple of minutes. Cardamom warms up the composition but when cumin joins I start to feel overpowered by the sweaty vibe this perfume starts to develop because of it. It’s a daring fragrance that ventures into more animalic territories without actually using these ingredients. Heart of Underworld feels to me like digging a hole somewhere in a dark forest. I can smell vetiver roots covered with lumps of brownish soil, patchouli leaves add a facet of a forest litter with hints of rotting plant elements. Carrot seeds bring up a vegetal vibe that goes well with this loomy & earthy sensation but I’m not a fan of this type of olfactive stimulus. Drydown reveals a tuberose note that in its white flower glory feels quite animalic as well. Mimosa in case of this scent is not breezy, watery and pollen-like but unleashes something more meaty vibe a’la fleur de cassie. All this is smoked with a hefty dose of frankincense. Would you dare to wear it?

When you ask Christele Jacquemin about her profession she would probably reply that she’s a photographer-perfumer-traveller. And the order of these 3 passions is not accidental. First of all she’s a photographer. She takes pictures while being away on travels and once she returns home she attempts to translate the mood of a place and of photo taken there into a perfume. In my opinion the 3 fragrances she composed so far are really well-made and they stand out as more unique than 90% of what the market has to offer. If you have a chance give Meandering Soul, Impermanence and Underworld a try. You might not love them but you’ll see the artistry behind them.

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