Lemon supernova, Tauer Perfumes L’Eau

Andy Tauer is a great guy but you’ve probably already known that. As a person who learned on his own how to make perfume and who earned so much recognition and love among fragrance enthusiasts definitely could be considered a role model for anyone who has aspirations to start creating and to become a part of this world. But in all that Andy is a regular person like we all are. There are perfumers that would make you feel intimidated when you talk to them, but not Andy. Talking to him is like a chat with a friend who happens to have a big knowledge of the industry.

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A short while ago Andy presented L’Eau, a new cologne-themed fragrance for his Tauer Perfumes collection. It is actually his 3rd attempt to focus on citrus notes after Orange Star and limited edition Cologne du Maghreb. So how does it smell? L’Eau has somewhat astringent citrus opening. It starts off on more chilly side with a prominent and intensive lemon note that is followed by juicy tang of bergamot. Slightly sour at first it becomes more sugary because of sweet orange chord. The latter one kind of smells like candied peel. Lemon is especially lingering on my skin.

15 minutes later the perfume starts to shift & it starts to go in unexpected direction. On my wrist L’Eau develops into a smell of talcum powder with a lemon scent to it. It feels clean but not soapy (although it reminds soap a bit) and because of that chalky, powdery aspect the perfume gets dangerously close to a territory occupied by laundry detergent. I’m not sure if I want to go that way & I was happy when Andy’s new scent started to shift the other way. I wonder if this effect was achieved through the use of lemon blossom? Or maybe an iris flower? (I thought it doesn’t smell)

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All these notes are placed on top of a soft base built around the idea of sheer muskiness, of something that wears comfortably on the skin and feels almost like a natural scent of the skin. There’s also a layer of pale woods that add some heft to Tauer Perfumes L’Eau but they do not stand out in a drastic way. There’s also a touch of warm, ambery vibe sprinkled on top. Throughout the entire development process it remains clean. Andy described it as unisex scent – and that’s exactly what it is. Sillage and lasting power of this eau de parfum are fine. It’s available in 50 ml blue glass pentagonal bottle that houses most of Andy’s creations.

I definitely recommend giving L’Eau a try, although it’s less cologne-y than I would like. It’s a modern interpretation for sure – even with lemon, bergamot and sweet orange it has a twist that takes it farther away from a classic cologne. If it doesn’t bother you there’s a chance that you’ll love L’Eau. But if you’re looking for a truly juicy, sparkling and invigorating thing, you might need to opt for something else. Personally I neither love or hate this Tauer Perfumes offering. I really value the experience and more off-road approach to the topic, I just prefer my citrus in a classic way.

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Blissful laziness, Diptyque Eau des Sens

Sometimes when I read about new perfume launches I get a feeling as if it was a neverending race of not who makes a better fragrances, but who writes a better ad copy. We’ve all experienced beautifully written press releases yet when it came to testing, the scent failed to deliver. For some less is more & when it says that a perfume will “bring together all the dimensions of bitter orange, from the roots to the top of the tree, including branches, leaves and fruit.” Simple yet tempting. It took me over a year since its release to smell it but now I’m happy I had the occasion to do so. You see, Diptyque and I have a bumpy ride, perhaps because in very early perfumista years someone gave me Philosykos to smell. My experience with it was bad, so I kind of scared away from the brand. Nowadays my mind is more open (plus I love Oud Palao) so I waited for my sample eagerly.

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Turns out that Eau des Sens feels like it was made just for me. Its composition opens with a delightful scent of orange blossom that is somewhat sheer and translucent for the first impression. Generally speaking the whole perfume is more on a delicate side of the intensity spectrum. After few minutes orange blossom becomes more accentuated and reveals its nuances that combine aspects of a white flower and fruit. Soon flowers will be joined by a Seville orange. It’s full of flavor & absolutely mouth-watering. There is a certain amount of bitterness mixing with some juicy sweetness. Then it feels more tart & zesty, smelling like a citrus rind with white albedo. You can’t deny that Eau de Sens has a summer vibe coded in its DNA. At some point I can catch a glimpse of a pale green leafage. It’s very pleasant and it blends harmoniously with the rest of the composition.

Diptyque Eau des Sens among its few notes (its composition isn’t that long) lists juniper berry. It really came to my attention at some point. When bitter orange became more dry juniper surfaced introducing its cold-ish dry spiciness. It’s not screaming but is more hidden. Yet if you pay attention you’ll notice a gin undertone playing around. It’s gentle so you definitely won’t smell as if you spilled gin & tonic all over your shirt. Spiciness coming from angelica hangs around for a few minutes too until it fades away. After a longer time Eau des Sens is like a study of orange – you can really smell all of its parts. There is citrus peel, albedo, juicy orange pulp. Plus a little bit of petitgrain and even some orange tree twigs! It’s minimalistic but not simple at all. Those twigs add a bit of woody character to the drydown. It’s pale and soft because of additional musky note.

One more note listed is patchouli but since I didn’t record anything that would have an earthy, rooty or dirty-woody smell I assume Diptyque decided to use one of those modern fractions of patchouli – that has rather clean odor profile or is almost completely scentless. In fact Eau des Sens in its late drydown feels clean, slightly veering towards soapy aspect. All in all I have to admit that this is heck of an enjoyable perfume. It wears effortlessly and kind of gives me a holiday vibe of laziness. It was composed by perfumer Olivier Pescheux. As for eau de toilette concentration it feels sheer but has unexpectedly good lasting power (especially if you spray more generously). Eau des Sens is available in 50 and 100 ml bottles. If that’s still too much you might want to consider a discovery set (5 or 10 pieces) where you’ll find it as one of 7,5 ml vials. Scented bar soap is also available.

[note] photo borrowed from Diptyque on Instagram (cropped)

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