Matches for: “mimosa” …

Two from Masque to Indulge in This Winter

In 2020 due to growing pandemic situation across the world the activity of perfume brands was drastically reduced. I don’t know any numbers or statistics but I have a feeling that the drop could even reach 80%. The biggest loss and saddest thing to accept was the cancelation of Pitti and Esxence, two biggest niche perfume shows. The latter one was rescheduled to April 2021 only to be rescheduled again to June. If you were smart and tech-savvy, you’d move to online promotion. That’s what Masque Milano did and their 2 new perfumes were launched via Google Meet platform.

Ray-Flection begins with a moderately sweet yet delightfully juicy & mouth-watering scent of mandarin orange. Very shortly some aldehydic tones join and lift up the composition making it feel more airy and effervescent. You do feel a little bit of fattiness from these molecules, even a hint of something waxy & slippery but their aerial aspect is prevailing here. Cardamom introduces a bit of a crunchy, roasty spiciness to the backbone of the perfume. Heart of Ray-Flection reveals a floral bouquet in which a pollen sweetness of mimosa flowers whispers tenderly in your ear and gently caresses your face. It’s a pretty smell, a very happy & optimistic one. It is paired with violet leaf – its green color contrasts with the yellowness of the pom-poms. The smell it has is dewy, slightly ozonic and aromatic. Both are wrapped together, almost like a ribbon that ties a bouquet, with a solar accord. On my skin it feels a bit crystalline, lactonic and with a delicate impression of jasmine. While I don’t consider this new creation from Masque to be a challenging scent, the base is the hardest for me to bear. Beeswax becomes quite prominent on my skin and I am not very fond of it. It adds an impression of something too synthetic and artificial, at least to my nose. Then there’s some cedarwood and musk to help the perfume last longer on skin. I believe mimosa lovers should try Ray-Flection, even if only just out of curiosity. To me it stands few steps behind my favorite.

Last year Masque branched out of their main line by introducing Le Donne di Masque, a series of more feminine fragrances composed by female perfumers. I believe first two, Dolceacqua and Petra were already on preview in 2019. This line celebrate 10th anniversary of the brand and the aforementioned two are reinterpretations of Masque first releases. Late in 2020 a third persona was added. Maceleine is a gourmand perfume that goes straight to the point. The wearer is welcomed by a powerful accord of chestnut. The complex identity of the note hides in the fact that it captures the multiple facets of this Parisian delicacy. It’s nutty and at the same time caramelized. A little bit burnt on the outside but soft & perfectly cooked inside. Combined with a generous spoonfull of heavy cream that has been whipped to add some lightness to the concoction. Cumin… there’s not much of it but I get a bit of a specific stench in the background and I associate it with the smell of some of the streets in Paris. Then there’s a lactonic, creamy tuberose that doesn’t overwhelm but rather melts into nut-n-cream feeling. Cypress and geranium add a tad of crunchiness but their verdancy doesn’t stand out in this foody fragrance. Tonka bean amplifies the creamy vibe that Madeleine creates but at least now it’s got that aromatic, rich (yet mild) spiciness that feels like some sprinkles on top of this dessert. The sweetness of vanilla and fluffy clouds of musk complete the perfume. I know it’s got zero calories but how much sugar can your nose take? I think this perfume can be either love or hate, it smells polarizing if you ask me.

I like the idea of an online launch in times of covid. Where the brand founders along with respective perfumer explain the perfume to a selected group of attendees who were sent the samples prior to the event (mine didn’t make it on time so I didn’t attend) but in case of Ray-Flection and Madeleine as much as I have no doubts about quality of both fragrances, because in this field Masque always delivers, neither of them feels a special to me as L’Attesa or Kintsugi. However I am convinced that many fans of the brand will enjoy using one or both of these new scents. Fingers crossed!

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 63

At times of global pandemic what’s normal had to be defined anew. Instead of launching the perfume properly at an international fragrance fair, new fragrances launch online these days, with or without special events on Skype or Teams. In these conditions being up to date with everything is difficult.

I often learn about something with a few months delay until. This wasn’t exactly the case with two new Perris Monte Carlo scents. I read about them before, I was truly excited to try them but the opportunity didn’t come until late summer or early autumn. Mimosa Tanneron is a stunning, minimalistic perfume from perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena himself. Dominated by a pure joy of mimosa absolute, the radiant aura of it consists of pollen-like powdery notes that are entwined with more fatty, waxy nuances of tiny pom-pomps colored intense yellow. On skin Mimosa Tanneron is elegantly floral, very tender and with just right amount of sweetness. This yellow bouquet of flowers is enriched with roses but their presence isn’t obvious – more like a faint scent of a tea rose or a watery rose, it blends in. I suppose hawthorn introduces the element of green foliage to the composition. It creates an apt background to the star of this perfume – mimosa. In the drydown the perfume becomes even softer, more fluffy and powdery thanks to the white musk. At the final stage the smell is pure, harmonious and dreamy. Mimosa Tanneron is not a complicated perfume that manages to do the justice to the Grasse famous flower. It doesn’t beat my favorite Amouage Love Mimosa but it could become my firm 2nd choice. A must-try for mimosa lovers.

So-called “exclusive lines” from the designer brands are something that I rarely actively seek, mostly because they are hardly available in Poland (if they are, it’s usually only 1 place in Warsaw) and I also find their price to be quite steep. Sometimes I’d make an exception, like when I read about Iris Torrefie (eng. roasted iris) to join Guerlain L’Art et la Matiere collection. Combination of iris and coffee instantly made me think it will be either super good or the very opposite. Turns out I was wrong. Iris Torrefie starts on my skin with a silky, slightly green-tinted iris note that quickly takes a turn towards powdery, slightly chalky variation. After a couple of minutes I can picka coffee note. Not very strong, not a freshly ground bean, more like a leftover ‘coffee was here’ impression you could smell after opening a kitchen cupboard. It’s spiced with a bit of cardamom that adds a grainy texture to the perfume. Everything is mellow and smooth thanks to ambrette. In the drydown a creamy sandalwood is blended with some opoponax (it has raisins-like sweetness) and a touch of vanilla to brighten the fragrance. I can’t get rid of the feeling that Iris Torrefie is a bit bland and to me it lacks the wow factor that was so obvious for Iris Ganache (2007). The new Guerlain iris doesn’t live up to the fame of its older sibiling. I also had longevity issues, after an hour I could barely smell the perfume on my skin.

Lavande Romaine another new fragrance introduced by Perris Monte Carlo in 2020, along the aforementioned Mimosa Tanneron. As you know, I love me some lavender for that was one of the first perfumery notes that I fell for. Composed also by Jean-Claude Ellena this fragrance manages to capture the true nature of these small purple blossoms. Lavande Romaine starts very floral and it has a lovely transparency to the note, letting it shine as a soliflore for some time. Couple minutes later it gets more clean but not in a soapy manner but more like lightly scented bedsheets or a shirt. The scent is crisp, relaxing and elegant. When blackcurrant bud joins the composition it adds a fruity flavor to Lavande Romaine. Currant adds an acidic tartness, it suggests something that is juicy but surprised with bittersweet taste. This perfume will surely wake up your taste buds. Overally Lavande Romaine has a light feel to it, but it has a blue cedar accord in the heart that helps the composition to be more grounded and lasting on skin. The woody aspect is not very pronounced, it surely doesn’t interfere with lavender + blackcurrant key notes. Similarly to the Perris Mimosa, this perfume also is finished with white musk that makes it soft, fluffy and cuddly. Lavande Romaine is a well-executed lavender fragrance, worth a shot should you look for an easy lavender.

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