Matches for: “mimosa” …

Dusty trinket, Jacques Fath L’Orée du Bois

Frigid weather that stayed around for the last week finally decided to move and today it’s supposed to be the first day with a temperature above zero during the day. There was no snow where I live but because of such cold you couldn’t see any sign of upcoming spring awakening. That’s why I decided to look for it among my perfume and found one that represents a transition to a new start. A woody perfume that is warm and that quietly whispers a promise of sun and flowers to your ear. The composition comes from Jacques Fath, a brand that I really like since its revival few years ago.

Initially L’Orée du Bois makes an impression of a fresh and joyful perfume. A blend of bergamot and yellow mandarin gives it a nicely lively kick-off. On my skin it has a slightly green tinge because bergamot is slightly more pronounced here than mandarin. There’s not as much juiciness in the opening but there’s a plenty of zestiness. It smells like just peeled citrus and its slowly drying rind. It’s aromatic in a pleasant way – not too screechy or acidic. There’s even some sweetness to it. As for this kind of impression it remains quiet, perhaps thanks to neroli and its clean, white flower calming properties. That floral nuance also makes the composition smoother and ready to move on.

You could say that neroli was a prelude, an introduction to a floral wave that is about to hit the shore (or our noses, in this case) with its aroma. Just a couple of minutes later L’Orée du Bois literally blooms with hundrets of mimosa pom-poms. These tiny yellow flowers are now all around me & I feel transported to a beautiful garden somewhere in the South of France. In this perfume mimosa is so radiant, like a lot of mini suns that fill your body with a new energy thanks to their yellow-colored, sweet pollen scent. Absolute of orange blossom improves this lovely feeling with a little bit of flowery-citrus combo (with a not to petitgrain). I have to admit that you can get drunk on this fragrance part.

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Later on ylang-ylang joins the composition & while mimosa is still very present it gradually becomes more creamy. This creaminess doesn’t smell tropical or sweet – it’s still floral but in a different way. At the point when broom absolute appears, L’Orée du Bois starts to evolve – developing a new olfactory direction. Broom is an interesting shrub because as I have noticed in several other fragrances, it introduces a dusty impression. This very Jacques Fath creation is no exception. Broom is overpowering mimosa now, making the perfume feel slightly aged, decadent & covered with dust. But there’s even more complexity to it as I also get bits of shaved wood and hay when I smell it.

Going down the complex structure of L’Orée du Bois we’ll eventually reach a base of the composition. After broom gave the impression of going to the attic to find a lost trinket now it feels like there were more secrets to discover. Firstly there’s warm but quite dry saffron that is followed by a tingling spiciness of cinnamon bark. You will notice how the perfume thickens and its aroma becomes more dense. Then I get a whiff of golden honey and a hint of cumin. It feels syrupy and quite animalic, carnal – even if it’s only for a brief moment while it lasts. That part quickly disappears covered by a fluffy blanket of cashmeran and soft, sensual musk. Amber and sandalwood give some brightness and a solid frame to the perfume – like a ray of light peeking through an old window.

L’Orée du Bois from Jacques Fath is a well-done fragrance that I’m definitely willing to pay more attention in spring time. Despite having some dim, murky elements I look at it from its bright side – especially mimosa which was gorgeous here. Just like other 3 essentials launched by the brand in 2017 it was done by perfumer Luca Maffei. In case of this fragrance a theme of la joie de vivre was translated into a shabby chic meets avant garde meets modernism oddity. But the result is great. Brand also adds a note that L’Orée du Bois was a wedding dress designed by Jacques Fath for Rita Hayworth. This parfum comes in 50 ml and 100 ml bottles. Silage is moderate and longevity is fine.

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Heavenly glow, Francesca Bianchi Angel’s Dust

There’s something glorious and tough in becoming a perfumer. No matter which one of them you’d ask they would tell you it’s a bumpy yet rewarding process. I repeat it over and over again that I love perfume from Italian creators. It’s only my subjective observation but unlike French perfumers, who like to play safe, perfumers from Italy are more eager to create more ‘weird’ scents that push the boundaries. But that’s just my opinion so I don’t know if Francesca Bianchi would approve it. Previously working in publishing she became curious about alchemy and perfumery, so she started to experiment. Nowadays she offers fully handmade fragrances that are done in her very own way.

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Angel’s Dust is very translucent for the first couple of minutes and then the structure of the perfume is slowly starting to take more ‘physical’ shape. That said, iris appears right away and it’s a very powdery one. It’s a very nicely structured accord that combines different nuances. The powderness is quite dry at first, like talcum but it transforms into more silky feeling that then gradually unveils floral tones. There’s also a vegetal aspect to it – that is when iris ‘abandons’ its powdery form to become more buttery with hints of roots and a little bit of damp earth.

This pale face of iris obtains a little bit of a rosy blush on its cheeks as soon as rose joins the composition. The latter one is quite saturated but definitely not overdone. It almost feels as if you could take a handful of bright red petals, squeeze them in your palm & a few drops of rose oil would drip off your hand – it’s that rich to my nose. Angel’s Dust is a real floral feast as there’s also mimosa note appearing later. Its yellow pom-pom like flowers spread a cheerful scent of a pollen puffs. Every time I smell these flowers beautifully entwine with one another, I want to smile wide.

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1,5 – 2 hours later heart notes of Angel’s Dust start to play around. If this perfume was turned into a piece of music, they would play completely new sounds. You could say that there’s some sort of cut-off. Floral elements are left behind and I start to experience more balsamic notes now. A diffusion of benzoin spreads around the wearer a delicate cloud of balmy, slightly smoky goodness with a hint of caramel flavor. Addition of vanilla enhances the feeling of deliciousness while tolu balsam makes it feel deeper and with more substance but still with brightness that would guide you through the night.

When Angel’s Dust reaches its drydown I can smell a lot of sandalwood, it’s creamy and smooth but with occassional splinters at times. There’s also a whole bunch of musk. The latter one is a combination of dust, some animalic traces and something more clean and fluffy. I very much like this perfume until its drydown, it has something in the base that annoys me. Luckily it then disappears. But I don’t want it to be the reason why you wouldn’t try it, it’s highly possible that you wouldn’t detect that thing at all. Available format is a 30 ml bottle of extrait. On me it lasts around 7 hours.

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